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Lethal Weapon: Riggs’ Blue Shirt and Jeans

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Mel Gibson as LAPD Det. Martin Riggs in Lethal Weapon (1987).

Mel Gibson as LAPD Det. Martin Riggs in Lethal Weapon (1987).

Vitals

Mel Gibson as Martin Riggs, gradually less-crazy LAPD detective

Los Angeles, Christmas 1987

Background

After spending a few days with the suicidal Martin Riggs, we begin to see a less crazy side of him as he warms to his partnership with the older and more stoic Danny Glover Roger Murtaugh. No longer does Riggs need to be classified as the titular “lethal weapon”, as he concerns himself more with solving the case and getting revenge on L.A.’s murderers than with putting himself out of his misery.

The day begins normally enough, with Riggs showing up at Murtaugh’s bedside with a fresh cup of coffee and ideas about a lead in their case. They head off to the pistol range, where Riggs shows Murtaugh a thing or two that only the sort of guys who would sleep with their 9 mm under their pillow could do.

What’d He Wear?

Riggs spent the first half of the film in a gray unstructured blazer and jeans, which I appropriately covered at Christmas time. The day after he is partnered with Murtaugh, he shows up at the man’s house in a khaki jacket, blue shirt, and jeans. He will rotate through a couple jackets during the events of the day.

Riggs approaches work with a very casual style.

Riggs approaches work with a very laidback style.

Riggs’ first jacket is a khaki casual field jacket with self-faced shirt-style collars and five light brown buttons down the front. The waist is slightly suppressed with elastic sides, but Riggs wears the coat open so the effect on the jacket’s fit isn’t immediately evident. Each cuff has one light brown button to close, but Riggs wears the cuff buttons undone.

The jacket has a large storm flaps that extends across the back and down onto both the right and left chest, with buttons on the front and back to fasten it into place. The hip pockets have square flaps with two concealed buttons under each flap to close the pocket.

Literally very laidback.

This khaki jacket appears to be lightweight canvas, a smart choice for an action-oriented man spending Christmas in L.A., where the temperature is typically in the 60s in December, which is just cool enough to necessitate a light jacket… which also helps conceal a sidearm.

Riggs evidently abandons the khaki jacket after the bombing of Dixie’s house, now wearing a red-orange waterproof jacket over the rest of the outfit. This jacket has a large brown leather collar and a double snap/zip front with a brass zipper. The cuffs have matching snaps, but – like the previous jacket – Riggs doesn’t bother to fasten them.

 

Riggs at the Hunsacker spread.

Riggs at the Hunsacker spread.

This coat has reinforced elbows, best seen when Riggs is shooting at Gary Busey’s helicopter. There are also two flapped hip pockets which close with two silver metal snaps on each of the large square flaps.

In a welcome dose of realism, Riggs is actually unable to shoot down the helicopter with his 9 mm pistol.

In a welcome dose of realism, Riggs is actually unable to shoot down the helicopter with his 9 mm pistol.

Underneath both jackets, Riggs wears a blue cotton utility-shirt. It buttons down the front placket with large silver faux-metal buttons, but Riggs ignores the first few buttons at the top to reveal his undershirt. The shirt’s long sleeves are rolled up past his elbow. There are two chest pockets with button-down flaps; the buttons match the silver buttons down the front of the shirt.

Eye and ear protection sold separately.

Eye and ear protection sold separately.

Riggs’ undershirt is the same off-white henley he wore the day before. This shirt has short sleeves that stretch down to his elbows and three large buttons, although Riggs only fastens the bottom button.

Sorry about the nips, folks.

Sorry about the nips, folks.

Riggs wears a different pair of jeans than we’re used to seeing. Previously he had worn a light blue wash; these jeans are a rich medium blue denim. Like the earlier pair, they are straight-leg and fit snugly over his boots.

Both in spirit and in texture, Riggs nicely matches his boots to his belt, his usual brown leather ranger belt with a brass buckle in the front. He clips his LAPD detective’s badge to the left side during his investigation.

LW1b-CLc-jeans

Again, Riggs wears a pair of cowboy-style Tony Lama leather boots with raised heels, fitting for his reputation as a “cowboy cop”. He likely wears the same white GoldToe® tube socks with the boots as Riggs is a creature of habit.

Riggs’ accessories are consistent with the day before, wearing his gold double-ridged wedding band to honor his deceased wife and the all-black watch on his right wrist. The watch is possibly a TAG Heuer – Riggs’ watch of choice in Lethal Weapon 2 and Lethal Weapon 3 – but we would need some confirmation before definitely calling it.

LW1b-CLx-ringwatch

Riggs also adds a pair of very ’80s black plastic-rimmed sunglasses with brown gradient lenses, clipping them to his undershirt when he’s not wearing them.

If Douglas MacArthur and Charles Nelson Reilly had a son...

If Douglas MacArthur and Charles Nelson Reilly had a son…

For the nighttime drive-by shooting, Riggs dons both his plain dark blue baseball cap from the previous day and a gray bulletproof vest, concealed under his shirt and jacket.

Always wear a bulletproof vest when soliciting prostitutes. You never know when a shotgun-wielding Gary Busey may be lurking nearby...

Always wear a bulletproof vest when soliciting prostitutes. You never know when a shotgun-wielding Gary Busey may be lurking nearby…

 

The vest is a wise choice since Riggs is shotgunned that night by Gary Busey… and would you even want to be shotgunned by anyone else?

Go Big or Go Home

The Riggs-Murtaugh dynamic had grown from antagonization to warmth by the end of the first day, bonding over getting shot at and Darlene Love’s poor cooking. Instead of Murtaugh realizing “you’re really crazy” every five minutes, the two now share an open exchange of ideas, bantering about a potential theory involving a hooker named Dixie’s role in their murder case:

Murtaugh: That’s pretty fucking thin.
Riggs: That’s very thin.
Murtaugh: What the hell, thin’s my middle name.
Riggs: (fires off a few rounds) Your wife’s cooking, I’m not surprised.
Murtaugh: What? What?
Riggs: Nothin’.
Murtaugh: Remarks like that will not get you invited to Christmas dinner.
Riggs: My luck’s changing for the better every day.

The two decide to follow Riggs’ lead and head to Dixie’s house, which promptly explodes after a Busey-placed bomb was set underneath it.

Two different men. Both very '80s.

Two different men. Both very ’80s.

The friendship is summarized by the two’s exchange after the house-bombing.

Murtaugh: Pretty thin, huh?
Riggs: Anorexic.

How to Get the Look

Martin Riggs layers his clothing for action, never knowing how many explosions or gunfights his day will bring. If you’re the sort of person who spends your day visiting bombed houses or shooting at helicopters, you should take a few tips from Riggs.LW1b-crop

  • Khaki lightweight canvas jacket with shirt-style collar, 5-button front, 1-button cuffs, flapped hip pockets with concealed buttons, and a large button-down storm flap across the rear and front sides
  • Red-orange waterproof jacket with brown leather collar, snap/zip front, single snap cuffs, flapped hip pockets with silver metal snaps, and reinforced elbows
  • Blue cotton utility shirt with silver faux-metal buttons down front placket, rolled-up sleeves, two button-flapped chest pockets
  • Off-white henley short-sleeve undershirt with 3-button top
  • Medium blue denim straight leg jeans
  • Brown leather Western ranger belt with a brass buckle and trim
  • Brown leather Tony Lama cowboy boots with raised heels
  • White GoldToe® calf socks
  • Black analog wristwatch
  • Gold double-ridged wedding ring
  • Black plastic-framed sunglasses with brown gradient lenses
  • Dark blue baseball cap with a blackened patch

The Gun

Riggs’ Beretta 92F is back, getting plenty of screen time as he and Murtaugh take their case deeper. It’s clear that Riggs is very attached to the pistol, as Murtaugh suspects:

Murtaugh: What do you do, sleep with that thing under your pillow?
Riggs: I would if I slept.

LW1b-gun

At the range, Murtaugh tries to show off by sending a single .357 round dead center through the target’s head. He’s a good shooter, but Riggs takes it a step further. Without a word, he steps into the booth, sends the target all the way down to the end, and pops off seven shots, the whole time coolly humming the 1930 hit song “Fine and Dandy”. When Riggs returns the target, he shows Murtaugh his work – seven extra holes in the target, having drawn a happy face around Murtaugh’s single shot.

“Have a nice day,” Riggs quips.

Many firearm enthusiasts have pointed out that Gibson’s flinching is uncharacteristic for Riggs, the supposedly expert marskman who had “done a guy” from 1000 yards away in Laos. Either way, the moment is one of the defining scenes of the series.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the series… and make sure you get the Director’s Cut.

The Quote

Riggs: The guy who shot me! The same albino jackrabbit son of a bitch who did Hunsacker.
Murtaugh: You sure?
Riggs: Yeah, I’m sure man. I never forget an asshole.



Scarface: Tony’s White Pinstripe Suit

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Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Vitals

Al Pacino as Tony Montana, ambitious Cuban-American cocaine dealer

Miami (and Colombia), Summer 1981

Film: Scarface
Release Date: December 9, 1983
Director: Brian De Palma
Costume Designer: Patricia Norris

Background

One of the few sartorial rules actually practiced in the United States is adherence to the “no white after Labor Day” rule. While it’s technically outdated, having been decided after the Civil War by snobbish housewives who wanted to establish their place in society, it makes sense that light-colored attire would find its place in the summer. Further enhancing the arbitrary rule, the snobbish housewives’ society determined that Memorial Day would mark the first day for white clothing to be appropriate in polite society.

While he may not be the prime example of “polite society” in the eyes of postbellum America, Tony Montana redefined drug dealer chic in 1983’s Scarface with his numerous sharp suits and incomparable swagger while wearing them.

What’d He Wear?

For his meeting with Sosa and subsequent poolside rendezvous with Elvira, Tony wears a light cream suit with a thin, dark pinstripe. He pairs the suit with reddish clothing, including a red shirt and handkerchief and cordovan belt and shoes. The white and red mix is pretty commonly seen with Tony, including his white wedding tuxedo and accompanying red bow tie.

The suit jacket is double-breasted with a 4×1 button front. The peak lapels have a concave breakline and a slanted gorge, adding an exotic flare and stretching the lines up to the padded shoulders. The white horn 3-button cuffs match the four white buttons on the front of the jacket.

The jacket has a ventless rear, but it fits well enough that Tony doesn’t look too tightly dressed when he fastens the front. Though he isn’t one for etiquette, Tony properly keeps the jacket buttoned when he is standing and unbuttons it to sit down – although he leaves it open when getting heated during his discussion with Sosa.

Tony heads from a business meeting directly to a bar full of Scotch.

Tony heads from a business meeting directly to a bar full of Scotch. If he wasn’t an American before, he sure is now.

There are straight jetted pockets on each hip and a welted breast pocket, where Tony rakishly places his display handkerchief. The handkerchief is red silk with many small white polka dots throughout. It hangs out of the pocket more than the traditional pocket puff, and – like the rest of his outfit – wouldn’t garner much respect in old-fashioned sartorial circles.

Tony avoids the faux pas of matching it exactly to his solid red shirt, although it is still very flashy and should only be attempted by someone with enough chutzpah to defend himself either in words or with fists.

Note the contrast between F. Murray's purple suit and Pacino's cream suit. F. Murray only looks '80s-tacky while Pacino looks like he could be fashionable tacky in any decade.

Note the contrast between F. Murray’s purple suit and Pacino’s cream suit. F. Murray only looks ’80s-tacky while Pacino looks like he could be fashionable tacky in any decade.

While we’re on the subject of his shirt, Tony wears a dark red silk button-down shirt. Everything about the shirt and the way he wears it screams ’80s drug dealer, but that is exactly what a guy like Tony is going for, unlike the more restrained windbreaker and linen shirt chosen by Sosa.

Scarface receives the official David Hasselhoff seal of approval.

Scarface receives the official David Hasselhoff seal of approval.

The shirt has a luxuriously large fit, further enhanced by Tony’s refusal to button it up any higher than his xiphoid process. The red plastic buttons, should they be used, button on a placket. The sleeves fasten with buttoned cuffs.

Tony later wears this shirt when meeting with Seidelbaum, the undercover cop. (That time, he pairs the shirt with a light tan suit which will be covered later.)

This suit’s trousers are flat front with a low rise. Tony never removes the jacket, so we only see the slanted side pockets, although his suits typically have a right rear button-through jetted pocket, so we can expect the same with this suit. He wears a cordovan leather belt with a small rounded brass buckle.

A fine way to start off your summer.

A fine way to start off your summer.

The trouser bottoms are plain-hemmed with a slight flare and a short break, showing off his shoes and most of his socks whenever he is sitting or lounging.

Tony’s shoes appropriately match his belt. They are cordovan leather balmorals with a raised heel to enhance Pacino’s 5’7″ height, which gives him a slight edge over Michelle Pfeiffer but he still looks diminutive next to the 6’2″ Paul Shenar and even 5’11” F. Murray Abraham. Despite his height, Tony’s presence is commanding and the difference in size is hardly noticeable.

scarwpin-CL2-feet1

Tony wears a pair of dark red silk dress socks, both matching his shirt and highlighting the reddish leather of his cordovan shoes.

Proud of his constantly growing wealth, Tony wears an abundance of jewelry throughout the film. One of the most noticeable is his collection of gold Omega La Magique watches, which he seems to own a variety of to match every suit or shirt in his collection. With this suit, Tony wears a La Maqiue on his left wrist with a gold expanding bracelet, gold rectangular case, and small round red dial.

scarwpin-CL4-jwatch1

The Omega La Magique was introduced in 1981, making it the perfect watch for a vanity-driven character like Tony to wear. It is a symbol of ’80s opulence, considered to be one of the thinnest watches made in that era with a 2.6 mm thickness and a face so small that it bordered on impracticality. The La Magique, however, was still thicker than the Longines Feuille d’Or (which had a movement less than 1 mm thick!)

On his right wrist, Tony wears a stainless link bracelet.

Some men enjoy birdwatching; others enjoy informant-being-hanged-from-a-helicopter-in-mid-air-watching.

Some men enjoy birdwatching; others enjoy informant-being-hanged-from-a-helicopter-in-mid-air-watching.

And what criminal kingpin would be complete without his rings? Tony sports both of his gold rings on his right hand, with a diamond on his ring finger and a square-cut ruby on his pinky.

Note Tony's eventual killer, standing obediently behind him as he negotiates with Sosa.

Note Tony’s eventual killer, standing obediently behind him as he negotiates with Sosa. Oh, and spoiler alert – Tony dies.

Tony also sports two yellow gold necklaces. The largest one, closer to his neck, is appropriately known as a Cuban-style chain. The thinner one, further down his chest, is a simple gold rope necklace.

Apparently, Pacino has a thing for necklaces.

Apparently, Pacino has a thing for necklaces.

When he returns to Miami, Tony dons a pair of black sport aviators, which were all the rage during the ’80s. I remember my grandfather wearing a pair, and I’m sure many of your fathers had a pair as well. Tony’s glasses were black with teardrop-shaped acetate frames and amber gradient lenses. You can pick up a similar pair at zeroUV for the snazzy price of only $9.99… or just raid your grandparents’ house.

No '80s man was complete without his plastic sport aviators.

No ’80s man was complete without his plastic sport aviators.

Tony wears quite a few white suits in Scarface, including this cream pinstripe suit, his white wedding suit, and another pure white three-piece suit when stopping at home to visit his family. He avoids the pastels that defined the era’s extravagance, although some of his blue suits begin to approach Miami Vice territory.

Go Big or Go Home

May your Memorial Day be full of copius amounts of J&B on the rocks, served by a swimsuit-clad early-’80s Michelle Pfeiffer.

Happy Memorial Day.

Happy Memorial Day.

How to Get the Look

If you’re familiar with “business casual”, this variation of “drug dealer casual” will advise you how to dress for your weekend jaunts down to Colombia.

scarwpin-crop1

  • Light cream pinstripe suit, consisting of:
    • Double-breasted jacket with peak lapels, 4×1 button stance, padded shoulders, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless rear
    • Flat front low-rise trousers with belt loops, slanted side pockets, and slightly flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark red silk button-down shirt with spread collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Cordovan leather plain-toe 4-eyelet balmorals
  • Dark red silk dress socks
  • Cordovan leather belt with small rounded brass clasp
  • Omega La Magique wristwatch on left wrist with gold expanding bracelet, gold rectangular case, and round red dial
  • Stainless link bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Two gold necklaces
  • Gold ring with diamond, worn on right ring finger
  • Gold ring with square-cut ruby, worn on right pinky
  • Black acetate teardrop-framed sport aviators with amber gradient lenses
  • Red silk display handkerchief with white polka dots, worn puffed in jacket breast pocket

If you do go for this look, try and show some modesty with your shirt buttoning. If someone wants to see your chest that badly, they’ll accompany you to the beach.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the deluxe DVD gift set that includes both this film and the Paul Muni 1932 original.

The Quote

I never fucked anybody over in my life didn’t have it coming to them. You got that? All I have in this world is my balls and my word and I don’t break them for no one. Do you understand? That piece of shit up there, I never liked him, I never trusted him. For all I know he had me set up and had my friend Angel Fernandez killed. But that’s history. I’m here, he’s not. Do you wanna go on with me, you say it. You don’t, then you make a move.


Axel Foley

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Eddie Murphy posing as Axel Foley for the Beverly Hills Cop (1984) poster. Like most movie posters, it replaces the gun he actually used in the film (Browning Hi-Power) with an incorrect airbrushed replacement (M1911A1).

Eddie Murphy posing as Axel Foley for the Beverly Hills Cop (1984) poster. Like most movie posters, it replaces the gun he actually used in the film (Browning Hi-Power) with an incorrect airbrushed replacement (M1911A1).

Vitals

Eddie Murphy as Axel Foley, cheeky and streetwise Detroit detective

Beverly Hills, Spring 1984

Film: Beverly Hills Cop
Release Date: December 5, 1984
Director: Martin Brest
Costume Designer: Tom Bronson

Background

Like many of the action-comedy cop films of the ’80s (Lethal WeaponDie Hard, etc.), Beverly Hills Cop turned out much better than it should have. The original premise, developed seven years earlier by Paramount exec Don Simpson, was a cop from East Los Angeles transferring to Beverly Hills. By 1981, screenwriter Danilo Bach had fleshed this out into an action-oriented fish-out-of-water story titled Beverly Drive about Pittsburgh cop Elly Axel’s misadventures in 90210. Despite the excellent choice of Pittsburgh as Axel’s hometown (go Stillers!), the film flatlined.

It was resuscitated two years later after the success of Flashdance when Simpson revisited his idea and hired screenwriter Daniel Petrie, Jr. to add a more humorous flourish. Elly Axel of Pittsburgh became Axel Elly of Detroit. The lead role went through a few actors – Mickey Rourke, Al Pacino, James Caan – before Sylvester Stallone was finally brought in to “act” in the film.

Bringing his Rocky and Rambo approach to the film, Stallone went back to Bach’s original serious action concept. Axel Elly was renamed Axel Cobretti (a name which Stallone must have been dying to use in a film), Jenny became Axel’s love interest, and the finale became “a stolen Lamborghini playing chicken with an oncoming freight train”; Stallone himself later remarked during an impressive display of self-awareness that his removal from the project was well-deserved. (Although Steven Berkoff mentioned that the ultimate factor in Stallone’s removal was the type of orange juice placed in his trailer.)

Stallone left the project two weeks before filming began, and producers Simpson and Jerry Bruckheimer needed their lead character. Two days later, Eddie Murphy was convinced to come on board. The serious tone was dropped mercifully in favor of lighter comedy that solidified the film as one of the funniest of the decade. Already famous due to his comic chops on Saturday Night Live and in films like 48 Hrs. and Trading Places, Eddie Murphy became an international star after Beverly Hills Cop was released in December 1984. It was the biggest hit of the year, earning more than $230 million in North America alone and racking up award nominations both at the Oscars and the Golden Globes, a heavy feat for a cop comedy.

TIME‘s Richard Schickel summed up best what made the film work: “Eddie Murphy exuded the kind of cheeky, cocky charm that has been missing from the screen since Cagney was a pup, snarling his way out of the ghetto.”

While Murphy is certainly a driving force of the film’s success, each of the supporting cast throws in their weight to keep the film tight across the board. Judge Reinhold and John Ashton knock it out of the park as the two Beverly Hills cops babysitting Foley, Jonathan Banks (Mike from Breaking Bad) is awesome as the stereotypically dickish ’80s henchman, and even Paul Reiser gets a few great moments as one of Axel’s fellow Detroit cops.

What’d He Wear?

For an example of just how popular Beverly Hills Cop was after its release, we can look to a t-shirt worn by Murphy in the film. The shirt is light heathered gray cotton with long sleeves and a crew neck with “MUMFORD PHYS. ED. DEPT” ink-printed and fading away on the chest.

Wearing a Mumford & Sons t-shirt doesn't have quite the same effect.

Wearing a Mumford & Sons t-shirt doesn’t have quite the same effect.

Though Murphy himself didn’t attend the school, Samuel C. Mumford High School – located in northwest Detroit – was the alma mater of producer Jerry Bruckheimer, who honored his school by featuring a Mumford shirt in the film. Almost immediately after the film’s release, the school began receiving orders for the shirts from all over the world. Though the school had its fair share of notable graduates (Gilda Radner and Ivan Boesky, to name a few), it had never achieved this sort of notoriety and fame until Eddie Murphy celebrated it across his chest in Beverly Hills Cop.

Axel wears the Mumford t-shirt during his first day in Beverly Hills underneath a charcoal blue zip-up hoodie. Axel’s hoodie is a very simple and comfortable garment, with half sleeves cut off at the elbow and slash front pockets on either side of the front.

Whether in a luxury hotel or a police station, Axel is a master of looking unimpressed.

Whether in a luxury hotel or a police station, Axel is a master of looking unimpressed.

Although its origins can be traced to cold weather laborers during the Depression, the hooded sweatshirt shot to popularity throughout the 1970s through both the development of hip hop culture and its iconic appearance in Rocky. Axel’s streetwise abilities and disregard for decorum make the hoodie – as it became known in the ’90s (aka the Buzzfeed Decade) – a very reasonable garment in his closet. (Stallone’s involvement with both this film and Rocky is merely coincidental when discussing Axel’s hoodie.)

The zipper and the drawstring grommets on Axel’s hoodie are silver metal.

BHC-CL-hoodie2

…or in a villain’s high rise office. Again – unimpressed.

Throughout the film, Axel wears a pair of blue straight leg denim jeans with the standard five pocket layout – two rear patch pockets, two front pockets, and right-side coin pocket. Although the high rise and straight fit were very popular in the ’80s, the jeans avoid many of the decade’s horrible sartorial decisions like acid-washing, ripped denim, additional pockets, or – Jesus Christ – elastic waistbands.

Axel goes sightseeing.

Axel goes sightseeing.

The ’80s fit may be disregarded as “dad jeans” now, but Axel’s choice of denim could have been far, far worse. In fact, they appear to be a pair of classic Levi’s 501s, evident by the small red tag on the right rear pocket. In addition to their high rise, the jeans also have a short inseam and break above the top of Axel’s shoes.

Axel wears a plain black canvas belt with his jeans. The belt fastens in the front with a black square metal buckle.

Stopping on this exact shot to take a screen capture really puts the scene in a different perspective, no?

Stopping on this exact shot to take a screen capture really puts the scene in a different perspective, no?

Axel’s dirty Adidas Samba sneakers had already taken on an iconic status before he stepped into them, but their appearance in the film helped solidify them in cultural history. The Samba is Adidas’ second-best selling shoe ever with 35 million sold across the world. The Samba was first developed in 1950 as a cold weather training shoe for association football players

Such an athletic stance would look goofy with a pair of opera pumps. Fine shoe choice, Eddie.

Such an athletic stance would look goofy with a pair of opera pumps. Fine shoe choice, Eddie.

The particular model of Adidas Sambas worn in the film are white “Classic 0″ sneakers with the famous dark green triple side stripes, flat white laces, and tan gumsole. Axel wears his with a pair of white tube socks.

Axel’s wardrobe has a very athletic theme throughout, from his sneakers to his shirts. Other than the Mumford shirt, he has a habit of wearing half-sleeved crew neck sweatshirts, similar to the blue shirt worn by Steve McQueen in The Great Escape.

In Detroit, Axel wears a red half-sleeved sweatshirt that appears to have been manufactured that way. Later, for the final scenes in Beverly Hills, he wears a light gray heathered version where the sleeves look like they have actually been cut off.

I've never worn one of these shirts, but by golly do they look comfortable.

I’ve never worn one of these shirts, but by golly do they look comfortable.

Both half-sleeved sweatshirts have elasticized waistbands that create a blouson effect, puffing out the center of the shirt and making them appear to be tucked into his jeans.

Axel’s watch is an all-black analog model with a square dial. It is worn on a black hard rubber strap with a squared silver clasp.

It's very much an '80s watch... but that's about all I can tell you about it.

It’s very much an ’80s watch… but that’s about all I can tell you about it.

I’ve heard suggestions that the watch is a Casio, but I have been unable to find a certain model.

Undercover in Detroit

The opening scenes of the film find Axel working undercover in Detroit, investigating a cigarette hijacking ring. He “thugs up” his outfit more than usual, now wearing a black sleeveless t-shirt and olive drab military-style pants. He wears the same Adidas sneakers, white tube socks, and black watch as he wears throughout the film, though.

Axel is clearly wearing the black sleeveless t-shirt inside out, with a round yellow logo faintly visible through the front and a tag seen on the middle of the back.

Axel goes undercover.

Axel goes undercover.

His pants are a pair of vintage olive drab parachute fatigues with cargo pockets, drawstring cuffs (which he ties), and adjustable waist tabs. Despite the tabs, he still wears his black belt with the fatigue pants. A similar pair can be found here or at any military surplus retailer.

Go Big or Go Home

Sure, Beverly Hills Cop is an entertaining film. Good premise, good actors, and solid action. Eddie Murphy, however, is what makes the film so memorable. Beverly Hills Cop marks a fine collaboration between director and actor where director Martin Brest (auteur of such films as Gigli… oh god) managed to keep the essence of the plot intact while a comedian influenced many scenes and ad-libbed much of his dialogue. Typically, one hears horror stories about a diva comedian – or any actor, really – taking over production for the worse. With Beverly Hills Cop, Brest and Murphy forged a terrific working relationship with Murphy’s smart comic instincts merging with Brest’s plot-driven direction to put together a much better film that it could have ever been on paper.

Reportedly, hundreds of takes were ruined by cast members unable to control their laughter as Murphy would improvise. Normally, this is when the director gets frustrated and heads start rolling, but Brest admitted that he was one of the worst culprits, laughing himself silly during many of Murphy’s takes. The most notable example is when Axel is defending his – and Rosewood and Taggart’s – actions during the foiled strip club holdup. Supposedly, the police station sequences made Murphy very tired, but he refused to drink coffee as part of his anti-drug regime. Eventually, Murphy decided he needed something so he took a few sips of coffee to stay awake. This blast of caffeine to Murphy’s system led to the energetic “super-cops” monologue… all of which as ad-libbed.

John Ashton, who plays Sgt. Taggart, eventually spends much of the scene rubbing his eyes. In fat, he was pinching his face to try and stop from laughing. Reinhold kept his face stoic only because he was pinching his own thigh through his pocket to contain his own laughter.

Axel: Before I go, I just want you two to know something, alright? The supercop story… was working. Okay? It was working, and you guys just messed it up. Okay? I’m trying to figure you guys out, but I haven’t yet. But it’s cool. You fuck up a perfectly good lie.

Murphy’s casting was the greatest thing that could have happened to the once troubled production. His improvisation even led to some ribbing of his own career; Axel’s harangue to the Beverly Palms Hotel clerk includes a fictional Rolling Stone article he is writing called “Michael Jackson: Sitting on Top of the World”. In real life, Playboy once featured an profile of Murphy himself called “Eddie Murphy: Sitting on Top of the World”.

And then, of course, there’s the song. Harold Faltermeyer’s “Axel F” was a theme song that could’ve only worked in the ’80s. Created from four synthesizers (a Roland Jupiter 8, a Roland JX-3P, a Yamaha DX-7, and a Moog modular synthetizer 15 for the bass), the electronic song went straight to the top of the international charts and was a #1 hit in 1985.

Jenny: I remember you used to drive that crappy blue Chevy Nova. What are you driving now?
Axel: Same crappy blue Chevy Nova.

Like all great movie badasses (with the exception of James Bond), Axel Foley doesn’t need some flashy, brand new car. Instead he’s got a powder blue 1970 Chevy Nova 2-door with a white roof and enough Miller Lite in the trunk to keep any stakeout wet. (Axel doesn’t imbibe himself, though; we learn earlier that his drink of choice is a Scotch and soda.)

This can't be recommended police procedure... then again, he's not in uniform?

This can’t be recommended police procedure… then again, he’s not in uniform?

How to Get the Look

Axel Foley is his own man, dressing for total comfort without regard to what’s fashionable or accepted. Surrounded by suit-and-tie cops, he stands out for better or worse.

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  • Heathered light gray long-sleeve crew neck “MUMFORD PHYS. ED. DEPT” t-shirt
  • Charcoal blue zip-front hooded sweatshirt with slash pockets, silver zipper, and silver drawstring grommets
  • Medium blue denim Levi’s 501 straight leg jeans
  • Black canvas belt with black metal buckle
  • Adidas Samba “Country 0″ sneakers in white with dark green triple side stripes, white laces, and tan gumsole
  • White tube socks
  • Black analog watch with a square face, hard rubber strap, and silver clasp

The Gun

While some may dismiss Axel’s method of carrying his service pistol in the rear of his jeans without a holster as unprofessional and non-police-like, it was actually inspired by a real policeman. Gilbert Hill, the Detroit Police Department’s chief of homicide, met with Beverly Hills Cop‘s director Martin Brest for research and location scouting prior to production.

Brest noticed that Hill carried his service revolver tucked into his trouser waistband with no holster, and this trait was incorporated into the Axel Foley character. Brest was so impressed by Hill (“He almost seemed to me like he could be Eddie’s father,” Brest says in the film’s DVD commentary) that Hill was hired in the film as Foley’s austere boss, Inspector Todd.

Many may recognize Axel’s sidearm, a post-World War II Browning Hi-Power semi-automatic pistol. The Hi-Power was introduced in 1935 after thirteen years of development inspired by master firearms inventor John Browning’s design. It was first produced by the Belgian company Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal (FN) and was immediately adopted into Belgian military service as the P-35. France, who had commissioned the initial design, rejected the pistol and instead went with the similar, but ultimately lesser, Modèle (Mle.) 1935 A.

Axel gets a bit nervy walking home at night by himself.

Axel gets a bit nervy walking home at night by himself.

The Hi-Power was the first of the “Wonder Nines”, a group of semi-automatic pistols with high capacity magazines – typically for 9×19 mm Parabellum ammunition. At the time, service pistols typically held no more than seven or eight rounds in the magazine. The Hi-Power’s revolutionary double stack magazine held 13 rounds of 9×19 mm, adding up to a total of 14 available rounds when one is chambered.

Despite its high capacity, reputation for reliability, and constant refinement from FN, the Hi-Power didn’t gain widespread attention until it became known as the preferred sidearm of officer Frank Serpico when taking on the NYPD’s “crooked cops” in the 1960s and 1970s. The Hi-Power received even greater exposure when it appeared in Al Pacino’s hands for Serpico, the 1973 film chronicling the real life officer.

By the time Beverly Hills Cop was filmed and released in 1984, the Hi-Power would have been enjoying its last hurrah with a monopoly on the “Wonder Nine” segment. Glock had rolled out its first pistol, the Glock 17, which carried 17 rounds of 9 mm in a single magazine. The introduction of similarly high-capacity pistols like the Beretta 92FS, the SIG-Sauer P226, and the Para-Ordnance series was just around the corner. Despite all of these recent developments, the Hi-Power remains unique for its original design, smooth single action trigger, and enduring reputation as a reliable and accurate service pistol.

According to IMFDb, this is the exact Hi-Power used by Eddie Murphy in the film! Check out the rest of IMFDB's Beverly Hills Cop page.

According to IMFDb, this is the exact Hi-Power used by Eddie Murphy in the film! Check out the rest of IMFDB’s Beverly Hills Cop page.

I own a Browning Hi-Power manufactured in 1975, and it is one of my favorites to shoot. The trigger pull is light even for a 9 mm, and it carries comfortably and obtrusively for an all-metal full-size semi-auto.

Axel’s particular pistol in the film has an external extractor, which FN incorporated into the design in the early 1960s. The film depicts semi-automatic pistols as the sidearm of choice for the Detroit Police Department, even though standard issue at the time was a Smith & Wesson .38 Special revolver with both the Model 10-5 and the Model 64-5 issued up through 1992. The uniformed officers at the beginning carry Model 10s (and one stainless Model 67), but Axel and his fellow detectives all have semi-autos, including Jeffrey (Paul Reiser) with his Smith & Wesson 639 and Insp. Todd with his nickel Colt Mk IV Series 70.

Eddie Murphy displays an impressive grip and handling techniques when firing his Hi-Power in the film.

Eddie Murphy displays an impressive grip and handling techniques when firing his Hi-Power in the film.

Loyal and sharp-eyed blog readers may recall that the S&W 639 was also Mr. White‘s sidearm of choice in Reservoir Dogs.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. I’ve never seen either of the sequels, so I can’t testify to their quality. I can say that I haven’t heard many good things about Beverly Hills Cop III, though.

The Quote

Disturbing the peace? I got thrown out of a window! What’s the fuckin’ charge for getting pushed out of a moving car, huh? Jaywalking?

Footnotes

We’re sneaking up on Halloween season, and Axel’s outfit would be a very easy, comfortable, and recognizable (as long as you use the Mumford High School t-shirt!) costume.

Thanks for reading!

Thanks for reading!


Bond’s Gray Office Suit in For Your Eyes Only

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Roger Moore as James Bond in For Your Eyes Only (1981).

Roger Moore as James Bond in For Your Eyes Only (1981).

Vitals

Roger Moore as James Bond, British government agent

London, Spring 1981

Film: For Your Eyes Only
Release Date: June 24, 1981
Director: John Glen
Costume Designer: Elizabeth Waller
Tailor: Douglas Hayward

Background

I often cite For Your Eyes Only as the best 007 film of Moore’s era despite most fans’ contention that The Spy Who Loved Me was his apex. After a sketchy start with two OK outings, Moore finally found his footing with a good script and co-star in The Spy Who Loved Me, but it still rings of a disco-enthused rehash of You Only Live Twice dunked underwater. I still like the film, but For Your Eyes Only appeals more to the From Russia With Love fan that I am.

The minds behind the Bond franchise realized (a bit too late) that Moonraker was excessive, even by 1979 standards. Sure, it remained the highest-grossing Bond film until GoldenEye sixteen years later, but are massive profit margins any excuse for a loss of artistic integrity?

Thankfully, the franchise scrapped any ideas of continuing Bond’s space adventures against unkillable giants with the help of just the right gadget. In 1981, For Your Eyes Only marked a new direction for Moore’s Bond: a grounded and (relatively) realistic spy thriller.

John Glen, the franchise’s loyal editor, was promoted to director and immediately made up for Moonraker‘s double-take pigeon – for which he was responsible. For Your Eyes Only turned its back on the gadgets and excess that had been tarnishing the series; the first scene immediately explained this new direction by Bond’s symbolic disposal of an old enemy*.

Michael G. Wilson and Richard Maibaum turned to two of Ian Fleming’s yet-unused stories as source material to create the newest Bond adventure, drawing the “Bond girl” and exposition from the titular story “For Your Eyes Only” and sprinkling in the villains and major plot of “Risico” to round everything out. An ending was still needed, and now that over-the-top auteur Lewis Gilbert, master of the underground volcano lair, was out, the franchise used For Your Eyes Only as an opportunity to test out a subtle ending that saw five protagonists against the small villainous gang on a remote mountaintop with the right people killing the right enemies and a final shill for détente to save the day.

Very few critics of the era praised the film, calling it boring with not enough distractions between stunts. Retroactively, For Your Eyes Only is now viewed by many as one of the best in the series and certainly one of Moore’s finest. Moore’s acting was also top-notch, with sophistication, charming, and competence oozing from more than just his eyebrow. The film’s few low marks are mostly-era specific: the late disco-era non-Barry music, the “perky” inclusion of Bibi Dahl, and the non-sequitur opening which – while symbolic – could have done better. Stainless steel delicatessen, my ass.

It also helps that I have a soft spot for Carole Bouquet due to her resemblance to my high school psychology teacher of whom I was very fond.

* Neither I nor For Your Eyes Only can officially name this “old enemy” as Blofeld because of Kevin McClory.

What’d He Wear?

In my quest to end BAMF Style’s tragic lack of discussion of Moore’s Bond, I’ve chosen to present one of the Moore era’s sartorial highlights. Matt Spaiser also wrote about this suit previously on his blog, The Suits of James Bond.

Poor Moore didn’t have it very easy when he took the role of Bond. 1973 through 1985 is often remembered as a decade of tacky clothing ranging from too tight (disco) to too baggy (’80s). Luckily, Moore had allies like Cyril Castle, Douglas Hayward, and Frank Foster to help him keep looking timelessly stylish in a world marred by bright pastels, gold chains, and oversized collars.

It was Hayward who stepped up to dress Moore for For Your Eyes Only. Though Hayward had likely worked with Moore before, this was the first film where he took Castle’s place as Moore’s on-set tailor. Much as the film itself did away with the excess of the ’70s, Hayward discarded the excess of ’70s styling and kept Moore looking strong, trim, and traditional without looking boring.

After sporting a few fashionable three-piece suits for his previous office visits, Bond makes the rounds of MI6’s offices in a subtle gray flannel suit tailored by Hayward. Context clues – ample snow for skiing in Cortina and summerlike warmth in Corfu – set this scene sometime in late spring, a time when a flannel suit would still be comfortable in London but warm colors like mid-gray and cream would be seasonally appropriate.

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Bond’s suit is far classier than his garish green surroundings.

The suit jacket is single-breasted with standard notch lapels that roll down Moore’s torso to the low 2-button stance. This low stance is the most dated part of the outfit, although it is more forgivable than the distractingly low stance on his double-breasted garments later in the film like the otherwise dashing navy blazer in Corfu. The low stance of this single-breasted jacket is very much a hallmark of ’80s fashion, but Moore’s considerable height works in its favor to keep the look luxurious rather than boxy. The jacket itself is also relatively long, allowing the low stance more than the shorter jackets of today would.

The keys to wearing a low stance jacket are: a) Be tall. b) Wear a long enough tie. c) Have Douglas Hayward make your suit for you.

The keys to wearing a low stance jacket are:
a) Be tall.
b) Wear a long enough tie.
c) Have Douglas Hayward make your suit for you.

Bond’s suit jacket has all of the other Hayward trademarks found on the film’s suits including natural shoulders with roped sleeveheads, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and 3-button cuffs. Hayward also avoids the boxy, overly-draped ’80s look by giving Moore a clean chest. While a draped chest allows more space for a shoulder holster, Bond is unarmed in these scenes and has no need for the extra space a darted jacket would provide.

Bond is equally comfortable in the snooty upstairs office of the Minister of Defence as he is down among Q's lab techs.

Bond is equally comfortable in the snooty upstairs office of the Minister of Defence as he is down among Q’s lab techs.

The jacket also has long double rear vents that extend up to the slightly pulled-in waist. It is lined in a mid-gray silk that nicely matches the outer color.

Bond’s suit trousers correspond with the jacket’s low stance by rising lower on his waist. The trousers are flat front with belt loops and a straight cut down to the plain-hemmed bottoms. The front pockets, returning after a long absence on Moore’s trousers, are frogmouth-styled with a straight – rather than curved – slant. The trousers also have two jetted rear pockets.

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The black leather belt has a brass buckle, and it is a simpler belt than the more flamboyant Gucci belts that Moore wore earlier in his tenure.

Moore’s long-time collaboration with Gucci shoes had also ended by the time of For Your Eyes Only, and the horsebit loafers of previous films have been replaced by simpler black leather apron-front strapped loafers that are more reminiscent of the “moccasin casuals” featured in Ian Fleming’s books. The shoes are hardly glimpsed in these scenes, but they can be seen better in other places throughout the film, especially the opening helicopter sequence.

Many men abide by the old, easy rule of wearing gray suits with white shirts and ties to the office, but Moore shows that a tint of color can be very welcome with shirting without looking too flamboyant. Once again wearing a shirt from his old pal Frank Foster, Moore’s cream poplin shirt keeps his look refreshingly chromatic. The shirt has a large spread collar that rises high on his neck. It buttons down a front placket and has 2-button mitred cuffs.

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So, Roger Moore dresses left. Now we know that.

During his long session in Q’s lab, Bond removes his jacket and allows more of the shirt to breathe. It has an ample fit, despite the double rear darts, and it drapes slightly over the waistline.

Bond’s gray grenadine tie, much like the film’s more serious plot and tone, also recalls earlier films from Connery’s tenure. The tie’s length is perfect when worn with the jacket, but removing the jacket reveals that the narrower rear blade extends slightly past both the front blade and the waistband. While the front blade is worn correctly at his waist, Moore would have been better served with a shorter tie especially given the scene requiring him to take off his jacket.

You know Moore is pulling out all stops when both eyebrows enter the equation.

You know Moore is pulling out all stops when both eyebrows enter the equation.

Some may also take issue with the perfect matching of the suit and the tie. While this has been part of Bond’s repertoire since Dr. No when Connery sported both a navy grenadine tie and navy blazer, this look can be disconcerting with lighter colors. I personally think that Moore pulls it off, but this may not be the case for all men.

Moore’s standard above-water watch throughout the film is a SEIKO H357-5040 duo-display alarm chronograph with a black square face on a stainless bracelet. The watch has a narrow LED screen for red text at the top used primarily by Bond’s superiors (“Come in 007″), but it marks a nice change from Moonraker when he wore a digital SEIKO with all of his suits.

Eagle-eyed viewers can spot Bond's watch as he puts his jacket back on, and- HOLY SHIT WHY IS DESMOND LLEWELYN STARING STRAIGHT INTO MY SOUL?

Eagle-eyed viewers can spot Bond’s watch as he puts his jacket back on, and- HOLY SHIT WHY IS DESMOND LLEWELYN STARING STRAIGHT INTO MY SOUL?

Go Big or Go Home

Other than the SEIKO, which really doesn’t count since it just has a messaging device that causes Bond to promptly discard it, gadgets are very few and far between in For Your Eyes Only. Very much the spiritual successor to my all-time favorite, From Russia With Love, the film features only one major tool at Bond’s disposal. It won’t fit into his pocket, and it doesn’t save the world, but the “Identigraph” – a large computer in Q’s office – is basically an automated sketch artist that allows Q to input a person’s features to create an identical drawing used to identify a man known only by sight.

It’s a smart, practical device that one would expect to see in an MI6 lab, far more practical than an exploding watch, a cigarette case safe cracker, a wrist-dart gun (what if you’re wearing short sleeves), a miniature camera with your secret code number emblazoned on it, or any of the other stupid shit featured in Moonraker.

Moore's face when watching the Identigraph is remarkably similar to my face when watching Moonraker.

Moore’s face when watching Q on the Identigraph is remarkably similar to my face when watching Moonraker.

James Bond Lifestyle, in its infinite wisdom, identified the Identigraph itself as a Philips P430 computer with an integrated hard disk, a 12″ monitor, and a dot-matrix printer from which the photo of Locque is printed. Technology has changed plenty in the last thirty-odd years, but if you’re into a true recreation of Q’s lab, keep your eyes peeled for a P430.

Plus, the Identigraph indirectly leads to the finest moment in Moore’s era as Bond.* Though it happens much later in the film, Bond has finally cornered Locque on an Albanian cliff. A bullet from Bond’s PPK sent Locque – and his Mercedes – spinning until crashing onto the edge of the cliff. The car sits – teetering – as Locque nervously reaches for the door. Bond coldly struts over and tosses in a dove pin that Locque left at the murder scene of Bond’s Italian associate Ferrara. “You left this with Ferrara, I believe,” is all Bond says before delivering a swift kick to the side of Locque’s Benz, sending him helplessly falling down the cliff to his death.

It’s Moore’s coldest moment in the series, and one that he himself – a proponent of the more family-friendly Bond – did not like. However, he plays it masterfully as any man avenging murder should.

* If you’re wondering how this scene leads to the car-kicking scene an hour later, realize that Bond couldn’t have named Locque in the first place without using the Identigraph!

How to Get the Look

Make a few bold moves the next time you’ve got a meeting at the office. Keep the white shirt in the closet and go for the cream. Don’t be afraid to match your tie to your suit. At best, everyone will think you look like James Bond and you’ll live an adventurous life of free cocktails and beautiful women. (At worst, you’ll get hit by a bus and cling to painful life for weeks before someone decides to cut the lifeline. But that could happen whether you’re dressed like Bond or not, so let’s hope for the best.)

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  • Gray flannel two-piece suit, tailored by Douglas Hayward, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with notch lapels, low 2-button stance, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and long double rear vents
    • Flat front medium-rise trousers with belt loops, frogmouth pockets, jetted rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Cream poplin shirt with large spread collar, front placket, 2-button mitred cuffs, and darted rear
  • Gray grenadine tie
  • Black leather belt with brass buckle
  • Black leather apron-front strapped loafers
  • SEIKO H357-5040/WHV-005 duo-display alarm chronograph with black square face and stainless bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Stinging in the rain?

Footnotes

Matt Spaiser’s stunningly detailed and well-written breakdown of this suit is featured on his blog, The Suits of James Bond.


Luke Duke

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Tom Wopat as Luke Dukes in "High Octane", Episode 1.05 of The Dukes of Hazzard.

Tom Wopat as Luke Duke in “High Octane”, Episode 1.05 of The Dukes of Hazzard.

Vitals

Tom Wopat as Luke Duke, ex-Marine & moonshiner

Hazzard County, Georgia*, Fall 1978

* best represented by Newton County, 35 miles east of Atlanta

Background

I know I said I wouldn’t do it, but the pull of the General Lee was too strong, and I finally decided enough car week posts had been written before I could officially sell out and write about my dream car, the 1969 Dodge Charger R/T, and the show that immortalized it… The Dukes of Hazzard.

I first started watching Dukes when I was barely a teen, and – at that age – I most appreciated the comic banter between Boss Hogg and Sheriff Rosco. As I grew into my teens, Daisy became much more of a drawing point. Finally, while I still appreciate all of the above, it’s now truly impressive to me how Paul Baxley and his stunt team were able to craft such unique car chases week to week using classic American muscle cars and a seemingly endless number of police sedans. The most unbelievable part of the show isn’t the stunts but rather the dichotomy between Boss Hogg’s greed and his approved budget for the Hazzard County Sheriff Department’s motor pool.

The story of Dukes goes back to the 1950s when moonshiner Jerry Rushing was living a real life version of Thunder Road in the hills of North Carolina. As moonshine and racing culture began to grow popular in the 1970s, Rushing gave his stories to writer and director Gy Waldron, who created the 1975 B-movie Moonrunners based on Rushing’s experience. Moonrunners starred James Mitchum – Robert’s son – and Kiel Martin (of Hill Street Blues) as Grady and Bobby Lee Hagg, two Southern cousins who deliver moonshine for their Uncle Jesse and fight the increasingly violent and corrupt system in their small Southern county. Moonrunners was raunchier and more raw than even early episodes of Dukes, but it still had the classic elements: a brassy Southern girl, endless car chase, Waylon Jennings, the Boar’s Nest, bows isntead of guns, characters like Cooter and Sheriff Rosco Coltrane, and even a car with a Confederate lineage: a ’55 Chevy beater named “Traveller” after General Lee’s horse.

The Dukes’ General Lee will have to wait until next Monday’s post when I break down the rural style of Bo Duke (as played by John Schneider). To help get everyone in the mood to read about good-natured rednecks jumping muscle cars to avoid bumbling law enforcement officers, I figured I’d get us started a few days early with a post about Lucas K. “Luke” Duke.

Moonrunners didn’t gain much popularity north of the Mason-Dixon line, but the popularity of Burt Reynolds’ good-ol’-boy chase flicks like Smokey and the Bandit and Gator led to Warner Brothers knocking on Waldron’s door for a television adaptation of Moonrunners. Waldron and Rushing went back to the drawing board and developed The Dukes of HazzardDukes borrowed plenty from Moonrunners, including the twist of having the protagonists delivering water in whiskey jugs as a decoy run for the revenue agents (as seen in “High Octane”, Episode 1.05).

By October of 1978, Waldron had mostly cast the show and filled it with veteran actors (Denver Pyle, Sorrell Booke, James Best), newbies (John Schneider, Catherine Bach), and good ol’ boys from the surrounding area (Ben Jones*, Sonny Shroyer). The first three General Lees were prepped, painted, and ready. Filming was set to begin that fall on location in the Covington and Conyers areas of Georgia. Only one thing was needed: its first-billed star.

Tom Wopat, given the later direction of his career as a successful Broadway star, could be considered a surprising choice for the lead role on a simple show about rural rascals fighting back against the system with just a muscle car and tight jeans on their side. But Wopat, with his natural talent and large, hard-working, and close-knit farm family, shared more in common with Luke Duke than one might suspect. As the last major cast member to join the show, the 27-year-old Wopat was thrust to the front of the credits and The Dukes of Hazzard premiered as a mid-season replacement on January 26, 1979 with “STARRING TOM WOPAT” accompanying a shot of Luke gingerly placing a deputy’s revolver back into his holster.

By the time of its premiere, production of Dukes had already moved to the Warner Brothers ranch in California. The first five episodes filmed and produced before Christmas break are often considered to be among the best with its authentic rural Georgia setting and slightly more adult-oriented humor.

Tom Wopat, John Schneider, and the General Lee soak in the northern Georgia atmosphere in "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04).

Tom Wopat, John Schneider, and the General Lee soak in the northern Georgia atmosphere in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04).

In David Hofstede’s book The Dukes of Hazzard: The Unofficial Companion (which I own), Wopat himself stated:

I think the first five shows had a better look — more visceral… After that, it became more and more cartoonish, and that was unfortunate.

Unfortunately, the needs of such a car-hungry show forced Dukes to move to a place where Warner Brothers could more practically control production. With younger audiences also appreciating the show more than expected, characterizations shifted to keep the kids from growing up too fast. Rosco was less corrupt and more bumbling, Boss Hogg delivered diatribes about refusing to deal drugs, Cooter shaved and worked with the Boy Scouts, Enos became less virginal and more naïve, and all mention of Luke’s potential illegitimate children were squashed. Only Daisy got to continue attracting the adult vote with her decency-defying shorts.

Filming officially began 36 years ago today – November 7, 1978.

* Ben Jones, aka Cooter, had also starred in Moonrunners with a small role as a revenue agent. While we’re on the subject, Sonny Shroyer also notably showed up as a hapless – but far more mean-spirited – motorcycle cop in Smokey and the Bandit.

What’d He Wear?

One look into Luke Duke’s closet would tell you that this guy is obsessed with blue plaid shirts. With the exception of the second season, Luke wore exclusively blue plaid shirts from the show’s pilot episode through the finale six years later.

As the first five episodes – the ones filmed in Georgia – are often cited as the show’s most authentic, it will be Luke’s attire in those episodes that receives the bulk of attention in this post.

All first season episodes find Luke wearing a standard blue denim jacket. Though its pairing with jeans can often lead to some disparaging comments about an abundance of denim (“Hey, Denim Dan!”), the denim jacket is a very durable and versatile addition to a working man’s wardrobe that can especially come in handy for cooler seasons like spring or fall.

Luke enjoys a Georgia autumn in "Mary Kaye's Baby" (Episode 1.03).

Luke enjoys a Georgia autumn in “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03).

Luke’s particular jacket is unlined with a relatively short fit that meets the jeans at the waistline. While this allows Luke greater mobility when he and Bo are called into action (and probably makes climbing in and out of the General Lee easier), it leaves no room for side pockets. Thus, the only outer pockets on Luke’s jacket are the two flapped chest pockets with their metal buttons. Luke’s chest pocket flaps go from pointed like most Western yokes in early episodes to straight in later episodes.

By the end of the first season, Luke's jacket had gone through a few evolutions before settling on the dark wash with straight pockets. (Screenshot from "Double Sting", Episode 1.13).

By the end of the first season, Luke’s jacket had gone through a few evolutions before settling on the dark wash with straight pockets. (Screenshot from “Double Sting”, Episode 1.13).

The jacket has six brass-finished metal buttons down the front, but Luke always leaves it unfastened. The cuffs, always left unfastened and typically rolled up to reveal the shirt cuffs underneath, also have a single matching button.

"One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01).

“One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01).

The jacket’s waistline has two buttons on each side – right and left – with a small strap to adjust the fit. Luke keeps his straps fastened on the first button, keeping the jacket looser around his waist.

Luke does some sneaking around in "Mary Kaye's Baby" (Episode 1.03).

Luke does some sneaking around in “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03).

The standard color for a man’s denim jacket is a medium-dark blue wash, although the dark is also easy to pull off for most men. Luke’s jacket in the pilot episode was this standard medium blue, replaced in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02) by a lighter jacket. He wore this lighter jacket through “The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08), and it was always noticeably lighter than his jeans. Lighter wash denim is difficult for many men to adequately wear, and it also looks more dated. For the most part, Luke is able to avoid looking overly tacky.

Luke's various experiments with denim matching in the first season. The dark Levi's jacket with pointed pocket flaps was only worn in the pilot episode (left). The lighter jacket with pointed pocket flaps was worn through the remaining Georgia episodes and first three California episodes (center, from "High Octane", Episode 1.05). The final four California episodes featured Luke again wearing a darker denim jacket, this time with non-pointed pocket flaps (from "Route 7-11", Episode 1.12).

Luke’s various experiments with denim matching in the first season. The dark Levi’s jacket with pointed pocket flaps was only worn in the pilot episode (left). The lighter jacket with pointed pocket flaps was worn through the remaining Georgia episodes and first three California episodes (center, from “High Octane”, Episode 1.05). The final four California episodes featured Luke again wearing a darker denim jacket, this time with non-pointed pocket flaps (from “Route 7-11″, Episode 1.12).

In “Lime One Goes Missing” (Episode 1.09), he switched to a darker blue jacket that had non-pointed chest pocket flaps and nearly matched his darker blue jeans. Matching a denim jacket to jeans is getting into sartorially dangerous territory, and this is when the cat-callers may warm up their “denim sandwich” comments. The best way to pair a denim jacket with denim jeans is to wear a medium wash jacket with a noticeably darker pair of jeans.

The pilot episode denim jacket was only worn once, and the small red tag on the inside of the left chest pocket identifies it as a classic Levi’s jacket. The closest and most spiritually similar version of Luke’s denim jacket on the Levi’s website is The Trucker Jacket in the more versatile “Hot Spring” medium blue wash. The Levi’s description reads:

The Trucker fit is our most universal denim jacket fit for guys. The silhouette is straight on the body with armholes and sleeves designed for maximum mobility and comfort, featuring welt pockets that offer style and functionality. It’s led the pack since 1962, and still remains an icon of American cool.

The sole appearance of Luke's genuine Levi jean jacket.

The sole appearance of Luke’s genuine Levi jean jacket.

Luke retired his denim jackets a few episodes into the second season, likely since it was no longer needed when filming in California’s warmer climates. Both Bo and Luke would eventually wear only a single-layered shirt (rather than a shirt with a jacket or t-shirt) which also probably helped the costume department’s laundry bill and the continuity when recycling scenes for chases.

The only time Luke wore a denim jacket after these early episodes was in “The Great Santa Clause Chase” (Episode 3.09) when he sported a lighter wash denim jacket with his plaid shirt and jeans.

Luke's denim jacket makes a brief return for the majority of "The Great Santa Claus Chase" (Episode 3.09), but this is an altogether different garment than the one featured in the first season.

Luke’s denim jacket makes a brief return for the majority of “The Great Santa Claus Chase” (Episode 3.09), but this is an altogether different garment than the one featured in the first season.

Throughout the whole first season underneath his denim jacket, Luke wears a – you guessed it – white and blue plaid shirt! The first season shirt is white with a blue overcheck that can best be described as alternating hues of light and dark blue Tartan plaid flannel.

Luke, looking a bit more pensive than usual in the Duke kitchen.

Luke, looking a bit more pensive than usual in the Duke kitchen.

The spread collar is fashionably large for the era and yet, for all of the show’s excess, manages to stick within the sizes of decency without going disco wide. The shirt has a Western-style pointed yoke on each front shoulder and across the back.

All of Luke’s shirts have snap-down fronts. This shirt has seven six down the front placket and a single white plastic button at the collar. The cuffs have three snaps each and are typically worn fastened unless Luke removes his jacket, in which case he typically rolls up his sleeves. There is also a single snap on each gauntlet. All snaps are round with silver trim, but the surface is translucent.

A more relaxed Luke at the Duke family breakfast table in the pilot episode, "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01).

A more relaxed Luke at the Duke family breakfast table in the pilot episode, “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01).

The chest pockets close with matching snaps on each Western-style pointed flap.

Luke’s bootcut denim jeans in the earlier episodes are notably a darker blue wash than Bo’s. Even as the cousins’ jeans get lighter in later seasons, Luke continues to wear darker jeans than Bo.

For guys who find themselves running away from trouble so frequently, you'd think Luke and Bo would opt for jeans that weren't as... constricting. (Screenshots from "High Octane", Episode 1.05, and "Mary Kaye's Baby", Episode 1.03.)

For guys who find themselves running away from trouble so frequently, you’d think Luke and Bo would opt for jeans that weren’t as… constricting.
(Screenshots from “High Octane”, Episode 1.05, and “Mary Kaye’s Baby”, Episode 1.03.)

It is the Dukes’ jeans that were one of my major hesitations in covering their outfits for BAMF Style. While not as “painted-on” as some female fans may have preferred, the jeans are certainly tight through the thighs before flaring out slightly for their boots. Luke’s jeans are always considerably more spacious than Bo’s, although neither cousin leaves much a mystery regarding on which side they dress. Coincidentally, this factoid also corresponds with which seat each cousin occupies in the General Lee… I’ll choose to explain no further than that.

As a contrast to his flashier cousin’s tooled belt, Luke wears a simple plain brown leather belt. The belt shows some slight wear with darker brown around the top and bottom fading into a lighter brown across the center. It’s a very durable work belt, and it is meant to be worn with a buckle.

Luke wears a distinctive silver “bear claw” belt buckle, named so for the five black “squiggly” lines on the right side designed to resemble a grizzly bear’s paw print. The buckle is solid silver, and the left side (the bear’s “palm”) features a large turquoise stone with a red enamel center.

Luke takes a hit in the pilot episode. The scraggly-looking fella in the white jacket and blue shirt is Dennis Haskins, best known by the current generation as Mr. Belding, the playfully austere principal of Bayside High School on Saved by the Bell. (Suck on THAT '90s-relevant trivia,  BuzzFeed!)

Luke takes a hit in the pilot episode. The scraggly-looking fella in the white jacket and blue shirt is Dennis Haskins, best known as Mr. Belding, the playfully austere principal of Bayside High School on Saved by the Bell. (Suck on THAT ’90s-relevant trivia, BuzzFeed!)

Supposedly, Wopat had just arrived in Georgia and picked up this belt buckle from a local vendor just before the first episode was filmed in October 1978. This would explain why early promotional material featured Wopat wearing a far more ornate gold buckle in contrast to the silver bear claw buckle worn throughout the show’s run.

This very unique belt buckle has been recreated on several licensed action figures on Luke. You can pick up a similar buckle on Amazon, although it won’t have the red stone that gives Luke’s buckle its particular panache. Luke wears this same buckle throughout most of the series’ run until the final season when he wears a plain brass rectangular buckle, discussed later.

Perhaps more out of a countrified penchant for brown rather than strict adherence to sartorial practices, both Duke boys wear brown cowboy  boots with their brown belts. Luke’s are darker than Bo’s, as usual. As the show itself softened, though, Luke’s boots would catch up to Bo’s and both were wearing similarly tan-colored suede riding boots by the third season.

At the start of the series, Luke sports a very well-worn pair of dark brown cowhide leather riding boots. Luke’s cowboy boots are designed more for walking than riding with squared toes and low “walking” heels. They still have the tall, mid-calf shaft as found on classic Western-style cowboy boots.

Luke's boots, as seen in various episodes of the first season.

Luke’s boots, as seen in various episodes of the first season.

A slight running joke of the show is that the Duke boys are hardly ever seen without their boots. Even in “Deputy Dukes” (Episode 1.10), when they had their clothes stolen while skinny-dipping, they emerge from the water wearing only their boots. A brief shot in “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03), however, gives us a glimpse of Luke’s socks when he jams the accelerator in Cooter’s Plymouth Fury. Here, we see a pair of white cotton tube socks with a very high rise.

Luke slams the Fury's gas pedal to give us a view of his white socks.

Luke slams the Fury’s gas pedal to give us a view of his white socks.

I’m not sure if it’s a DVD defect, an odd light reflection, or a genuine pattern in the socks, but there appears to be a metallic stripe on his socks.

After Season 1

At the beginning of the second season, the abandonment of Luke’s denim jacket also heralded a new shirt for Hazzard’s cooler-headed Duke. This season, Luke took a cue from his cousin and sported a solid-color snap-down shirt in blue chambray. Like his previous shirt – and all future shirts – it is styled with Western-pointed yokes and flapped pockets, a snap front, and triple-snap cuffs.

Luke sporting chambray in "Duke of Duke" (Episode 2.13).

Luke sporting chambray in “Duke of Duke” (Episode 2.13).

Evidently, the solid color didn’t work out as well for Luke, and he returned to white-and-blue plaid for the third season. While blue chambray is a great material for a workman’s shirt, it does lend itself to showing sweat more than other colors. Bo would be safe in his lighter yellow and cream shirts, but Luke would look more like a character from In the Heat of the Night… a much different depiction of the South than The Dukes of Hazzard cared to offer.

“Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01) includes a flashback to 1976 when the Dukes first found General Lee, retconned as a ditched getaway car. Intended to be set two years prior to the first season, Luke returns to the blue chambray shirt of the second season. Evidently, the show was self-aware to a certain degree.

The white-and-blue plaid shirt during the third season is similar to the first season shirt. This shirt has a more prominent white ground and a slightly thinner black and blue plaid criss-crossing over the shirt.

Luke sports his "third season plaid" in "The Great Santa Clause Chase" (Episode 3.09).

Luke sports his “third season plaid” in “The Great Santa Clause Chase” (Episode 3.09).

It was during the third season that Luke also began wearing a pair of tan sueded leather riding boots with raised “cowboy” heels to match his cousin’s footwear. Luke never returns to the darker boots of earlier seasons, even during the seventh season flashback.

The fourth season finds Luke wearing yet another blue plaid snap-down shirt. This one prominently incorporated black more than previous shirts. It is best described as having a rich blue ground with large black squares connected by a series of white horizontal and vertical overchecks.

Luke brings a variety of facial expressions to "Miss Tri-Counties" (Episode 4.24).

Luke brings a variety of facial expressions to “Miss Tri-Counties” (Episode 4.24).

After John and Tom resolved the contract dispute that kept them out of the majority of the fifth season, Bo and Luke returned to Hazzard County in “Welcome Back, Bo ‘n’ Luke” (Episode 5.19) with a “new” – well, new-ish – look that they would maintain for the rest of the show’s run.

Luke’s attire underwent the most noticeable transformation. His flannel snap-down shirt was again blue plaid, but it is much more cyanic than previous shirts. This shirt has a vivid blue ground with a thick check alternating between dark and light blue. A white Tartan-style overcheck crosses throughout.

Luke's shirt remained the same for the final seasons, seen here in "Undercover Dukes" (Episodes 6.16/6.17).

Luke’s shirt remained the same for the final seasons, seen here in “Undercover Dukes” (Episodes 6.16/6.17).

The major differences in Luke’s wardrobe for the final seasons were on his lower half. The darker jeans of earlier seasons were back – on both cousins – and Wopat’s authentic “bear claw” belt buckle was evidently misplaced during the Coy and Vance fiasco. Luke returned to the show wearing a very dark brown leather belt with ribbed tan leather accents across the rear, somewhat resembling bullet loops found on Old West gunfighter’s belts.

Luke’s new belt buckle was sadly pedestrian compared to the unique one sported for the first four seasons. The new buckle was a large, plain brass rectangle with a lightly embossed design that looks like a sword and shield.

While there are likely some other screenshots that allow for a better view of Luke's later-seasons belt buckle, none of them offer Stepfanie Kramer - a few months before her career-defining role on Hunter - in an '80s bathing suit. Having both Stepfanie Kramer and Catherine Bach in the same episode makes "Undercover Dukes" a highlight for me.

While there are likely some other screenshots that allow for a better view of Luke’s later-seasons belt buckle, none of them offer Stepfanie Kramer – a few months before her career-defining role on Hunter – in an ’80s bathing suit. Having both Stepfanie Kramer and Catherine Bach in the same episode makes “Undercover Dukes” (Episodes 6.16/6.17) a highlight for me.

There was some overlapping between seasons, especially the second and third seasons where Luke would often wear the same shirt from the last season for the first few episodes, but it’s easier to refer to each shirt by which season saw its major use.

The progression of Luke's shirts from the first season through the end.

The progression of Luke’s shirts from the first season through the end.

Luke may have had a standard shirt for each season, but some episodes – particularly early ones – allowed him to change his shirt every so often within the context of the story.

Luke’s Other Shirts

“Daisy’s Song”, the show’s second episode and often considered one of its strongest, bravely featured both Duke boys wearing different shirts during a trip to Atlanta. Naturally, Luke’s was still blue plaid, but at least some new color was injected into it. This flannel shirt had a tan ground with a blue, black, and brown overcheck. The blue is most prominent, but the other colors give the shirt more of a pop than his others.
"Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

“Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

It was while wearing this shirt that Tom Wopat performed his famous hoodslide over the General Lee that would become immortalized in the show’s opening credits and various parodies. This would be the shirt’s sole appearance, and it was presumably damaged when Wopat sliced open his arm on the General’s aerial.

White and blue snap-down shirts are still a dime-a-dozen, but a more unique shirt like the one in “Daisy’s Song” could be harder to find. Rusty Zipper, a cool vintage clothing online outlet, offers this Channing “western-style” wool flannel shirt from the ’80s that would’ve found a home in Luke’s closet.

Three episodes later, Bo and Luke take Roxanne – the new Treasury Agent assigned to their case – to go juking at the Boar’s Nest. As Waylon Jennings helpfully tells us:

Now, for all you culturally deprived… juking is an event that combines music exercise, and social intercourse on a high plane.

Bo has an entirely different kind of “intercourse” in mind, but Luke plays a more subtle role, feeding Enos’ virginal brain some misinformation. Both Duke boys again wear different snap-down shirts than usual, but Luke – of course – doesn’t stray from blue plaid. This time, it is a more structured shirt in blue-and-white gingham.

Luke Duke jukes.

Luke Duke jukes.

In the two-partner “Undercover Dukes” (6.16/6.17), one of the better installments of the show’s later run, Bo and Luke are called back to the racing circuit – this time in service of Uncle Sam. The episode is a nice and rare display of continuity, acknowledging that the boys had already left the farm to pursue their dreams and vowed never to leave again. Though the “clones” aren’t mentioned by name, Daisy’s utter sorrow at the prospect of Bo and Luke leaving again mimics that of the show’s viewers during the majority of the fifth season.

As the show now seems to recognize Bo as the more talented – or at least flashier – driver, Luke serves as Bo’s crew chief. In this position, Luke is relegated to the standard attire worn by all of Bo’s pit crew, a white polyester short-sleeve polo with large collars and a two-bullet placket. (The producers likely tried to find blue plaid polos for consistency’s sake.)

"Undercover Dukes" saw plenty of action for Bo and Luke both on and off the track.

“Undercover Dukes” saw plenty of action for Bo and Luke both on and off the track.

While acting as Bo’s crew chief, Luke also wears the standard red “trucker” hat seen on all members of the pit crew. Both the shirt and the hat are emblazoned with the Carver family’s coat of arms, an ornately supported blue, red, and white shield with “CARVER” scrolled in the gold bottom banner. If you never saw the episode, Carver is the surname of the mob syndicate kingpin and his sultry daughter that practically – but innocently enough – seduces Bo back into the driver’s seat.

Luke foregoes the red pants and white belt that the other crewmen wear, exercising his crew chief’s power to just wear his usual jeans and belt. He does wear a pair of black sneakers, however; as backup driver, he could hardly be expected to hop into the seat of a stock car and maneuver appropriately on a track in his cowboy boots.

Luke Dresses Up

Few occasions on the show call for Bo and Luke to wear anything more formal than their usual shirt and jeans, but a visit to their probation officer in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05) shows them both slightly dressed up in countrified suits, ties, and dressier versions of their usual shirts.

Luke, Jesse, and Bo, all duded up for town.

Luke, Jesse, and Bo, all duded up for town.

Luke, of course, wears an all-denim suit that gives new meaning to the term “Texas tuxedo”*. Though his coat and trousers are both blue denim, it is a matching suit rather than his usual casual jacket and jeans. The jacket is single-breasted with wide notch lapels that roll down the front to two white plastic buttons. There are three matching white plastic buttons on each cuff, and the white motif is continued throughout with edge stitching on the lapels, seams, and pocket jetting.

* More relevant slang for this Southern-oriented show than “Canadian tuxedo”.

There are two large patch pockets on the hips and a smaller jetted ticket pocket just above the right hip pocket. The shoulders are unstructured and the belted rear has a single vent. This garment is likely one of the ugliest but most period-specific items you’ll see on this blog.

Luke at the Newton County Courthouse.

Luke at the Newton County Courthouse.

The denim suit trousers are also curious. Not necessarily jeans, they still have the basic structure of jeans with the curved front pockets and belt loops. He wears a plaid black leather belt with a rounded dull black metal clasp rather than his usual belt. He appears to be wearing his same dark brown boots as usual, but a clashing of black belt and brown boots is far from the worst part of this outfit.

The "suit" just gets worse and worse the more you look at it.

The “suit” just gets worse and worse the more you look at it.

Luke’s shirt is brown and white plaid with a blue overcheck. He never removes his jacket or tie, but it appears to be styled similarly to his others with a large spread collar, snap front, and flapped chest pockets. His solid dark brown polyester tie is actually a nice match with this egregious outfit.

Three rubes at the gas station.

Three rubes at the gas station.

Luke would later wear this same brown and white plaid shirt in the series’ sole Christmas episode, “The Great Santa Clause Chase” (Episode 3.09). For this scene, set during the Dukes’ family Christmas celebration on Christmas Eve, he wears it with his jeans and boots rather than another denim leisure suit.

Considering that Luke only wears this shirt for a trip to the courthouse and on Christmas Eve, it's fair to say this is his closest approximation to a dress shirt.

Considering that Luke only wears this shirt for a trip to the courthouse and on Christmas Eve, it’s fair to say this is his closest approximation to a dress shirt.

The Christmas episode also features a “High Octane” callback for Bo, as he wears his brown suede jacket for the majority of the episode. Bo’s jacket was only featured in these episodes, but I’ll delve into that more for Monday’s post.

Both cousins also dressed up in their “suits” for a wedding in “The Runaway” (Episode 2.14), wearing the same shirts and ties and confirming the suspicion that their closets are quite limited.

Accessories

Neither Duke boy goes in much for accessories, despite the turquoise jewelry and cowboy hats worn in much of the show’s early promotional material.

“Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02) contained yet another true sartorial anomaly for the show as Bo and Luke each wear a pair of aviator sunglasses while scoping out the music scene in Atlanta. Luke wears a pair of gold-framed aviators with amber gradient lenses.

Luke and Bo sport sunglasses for a North by Northwest-like disguise when checking out Lester Starr's compound in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

Luke and Bo sport sunglasses for a North by Northwest-like disguise when checking out Lester Starr’s compound in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

The sunglasses evidently belonged to Wopat, and he can be seen wearing them between takes in some behind-the-scenes photographs like this one from the filming of “The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08).

In lieu of wristwatches, both Bo and Luke carried silver open-faced pocket watches. They rarely used them, but Luke kept his in his right jeans pocket (as seen in Episode 1.11, “Money to Burn”).

Both Bo and Luke also like to be ready for any situation, and they keep knives worn in black leather pouches on the right side of their belts. Luke’s flapped pouch closes with a single silver snap.

Luke's ubiquitous knife as seen holstered in "Mary Kaye's Baby" (Episode 1.03) and "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04).

Luke’s ubiquitous knife as seen holstered in “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03) and “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04).

During the fourth season, Luke began wearing a plain silver ring on his right pinky.

LukeDuke-CX-ring

I don’t believe the ring is given any explanation within the show, but it may have something to do with Wopat’s first wife, Vickie, whom he married in October 1984. Though he is wearing the ring in episodes filmed at least a year before the marriage, this ring could’ve been an engagement symbol… or maybe Wopat just became a “ring guy” during the interim.

Promotional Attire

In the short time between Wopat being cast and the first episode being filmed in the fall of 1978, CBS and Warner Brothers decided to begin heavily publicizing the show, worried that it wouldn’t catch on anywhere but the rural markets. The campaign was designed to lure in younger viewers who would ideally be attracted to any of the three leads. Most of the marketing excluded older characters like Boss Hogg, Rosco, and Uncle Jesse, focusing primarily on Bo, Luke, and Daisy.

The more traditionally agrarian aspects of the show were also played up heavily in the campaigns with each of the leads – and often all of them – wearing flashy wide-brimmed cowboy hats, despite Bo being the only one to actually wear one on the show (and only briefly in the pilot episode at that!) Perhaps since there wasn’t one available in blue, Tom Wopat was given a gray cowboy hat for much of the promotional photo shoots.

Very early in the show's life as none of the characters are wearing clothing that would appear on the show - save for Luke's shirt. The General Lee is also missing its "01" numbers and - holy shit! - the passenger door is open.

Very early in the show’s life as none of the characters are wearing clothing that would appear on the show – save for Luke’s shirt. The General Lee is also missing its “01” numbers and – holy shit! – the passenger door is open.

As the photo shoots began to creep up on the actual filming dates, costumes became more and more accurate to what would be seen on the show. Interestingly, many of these early photo sessions feature Luke wearing a blue chambray snap-down shirt more than a year before he would actually wear one for the show’s second season. It was as though the producers had it in storage, intending for him to eventually wear it.

Tom Wopat was rarely – if ever – photographed for the promotions while wearing his jacket. This was likely to emphasize the “beefcake” factor, which would also explain why Bo forewent his usual undershirt for these photos.

The show's final costumes were ready before the General Lee (no "01", different plates, etc.) Evidently, the network still believed in the strength of its stars rather than blindly and mistakenly putting all its faith in the car instead.

The show’s final costumes were ready before the General Lee (no “01”, different plates, etc.) Evidently, the network still believed in the strength of its stars rather than blindly and mistakenly putting all its faith in the car instead.

Since Wopat picked up Luke’s “bear claw” belt buckle during filming, the ornate gold belt buckle is different than the one he would eventually wear on the show.

When the show picked up production after the Christmas break, it was now filmed in California to keep costs lower. Another photo session was executed in Griffith Park, under the Hollywood sign, using the same “unmarked” General Lee. For this shoot, Luke indeed wore a plaid shirt although it featured red and brown far more prominently than his usual blue. The gray cowboy hat also made its return for some of this shoot.

Unlike the show's other promotional photo shoots, the Griffith Park shoot featured Luke wearing a shirt that would receive no actual airtime.

Unlike the show’s other promotional photo shoots, the Griffith Park shoot featured Luke wearing a shirt that would receive no actual airtime.

Go Big or Go Home

Although The Dukes of Hazzard was never lauded for character development or continuity, Tom Wopat’s portrayal of Luke is a consistent and smart characterization of an ex-Marine who’d been all around the world and still chose to stay in Hazzard County to cause trouble with his impulsive cousin. Luke was hardly ever the one actually causing trouble, of course, and he was often the one forced to come up with the master plan to get he and Bo out of trouble.

Foiled again!

Foiled again!

Relatively intelligent, rational, and mature, Luke often left the reckless driving of the General Lee to Bo and preferred to fight the duo’s physical battles. He had been an amateur boxer while serving in the U.S. Marine Corps and had risen at least as high as a sergeant’s rank as mentioned by a fugitive convict in “Sittin’ Dukes” (Episode 7.11).

Despite being the cooler-headed of the two, Luke could still be regarded as a rascal. Especially in the earlier, less family-friendly episodes, Luke’s reputation as a lady-killer is alluded to more than once. When Jilly Rae Dodson (what a name) shows up in the pilot episode to ask for help saving the local orphanage, Bo jokes – or does he? – that at least two of the kids in the orphanage probably belonged to Luke. In the next episode, “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), one of Luke’s old girlfriends that now works in a trailer brothel tells him that hew new life as a prostitute is far preferable than being one of his girlfriends.

Bo and Luke are given a tour of the "mobile madam"'s spread in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02). The idea of prostitutes in Hazzard County - or even prostitution in general - would be unheard of by the next season.

Bo and Luke are given a tour of the “mobile madam”‘s spread in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02). The idea of prostitutes in Hazzard County – or even prostitution in general – would be unheard of by the next season.

Perhaps due to his military experience or more physical characteristics, Luke is often the one handling guns when the Dukes come into contact with them. It’s rare, especially since the boys’ probation keeps them from possessing firearms, but Luke almost always is the one disarming their foes. In “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), he takes a pair of Smith & Wesson .44 Magnums from Jojo, an imposing bodyguard. In “High Octane” (Episode 1.05), he sticks a Star Model BM pistol taken from a Treasury agent into his waistband. Even the opening credits feature Luke delicately placing Enos’ revolver back in its holster after the cousins found the deputy playing around in the pilot episode.

Luke plays fast and loose with the "no guns" term of their probation. Left: Luke handles one of Jojo's Smith & Wesson Model 29 revolvers in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02). Right: Luke tucks Roxanne's Star Model BM into his waistband in "High Octane" (Episode 1.05).

Luke plays fast and loose with the “no guns” term of their probation.
Left: Luke handles one of Jojo’s Smith & Wesson Model 29 revolvers in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).
Right: Luke tucks Roxanne’s Star Model BM into his waistband in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

Due to their probation, both Bo and Luke opt for bows and arrows rather than guns. The show used unbranded bows after it got more popular, but early episodes feature Martin bows with Bo using the Martin “Warthog” and Luke preferring the Martin “Cougar II”. Since the Dukes revenge on “property, not people”, the arrows are often laden with a stick of dynamite to blow up an unoccupied building or car and ruin whatever scheme Boss Hogg or the villain of the week had dreamed up.

Luke prepares for destruction. Note that both Enos and Rosco are wearing heavy jackets, necessary when filming in the chilly December weather in Georgia.

Luke prepares for destruction. Note that both Enos and Rosco are wearing heavy jackets, necessary when filming in the chilly December weather in Georgia. (From “Mary Kaye’s Baby”, Episode 1.03)

One of the most defining traits of Luke’s character came from a mistake during the filming of “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02). The episode found Bo and Luke on the run from a police raid at an Atlanta recording studio where the two were mistakenly believed to be co-conspirators. They took it on the heel and ran out to the back where Daisy waited in the General Lee. Bo, naturally, slipped behind the driver’s seat. At that point, Luke was supposed to jump over the hood of the car to the passenger side. Instead, Tom Wopat’s foot caught the edge of the hood, causing his leg to slide across it. The hoodslide became one of the coolest aspects of the show, and the showrunners chose to use the flubbed take of Wopat sliding rather than the later, correct take of his vault over the hood.

Wopat's unintentional iconic moment. (From "Daisy's Song", Episode 1.02)

Wopat’s unintentional iconic moment. (From “Daisy’s Song”, Episode 1.02)

Wopat later admitted that this first slide had been a painful one, having caught his arm on the hood’s radio aerial and slicing open a four-inch gash in his arm. All subsequent General Lees wisely had the aerial totally removed to reduce any further risk of injuries.

Where is Hazzard County?

The first five episodes – the ones actually filmed in Georgia – are much clearer about the true location of Hazzard County. It’s obviously in Georgia, due to the reasonable driving distance to Atlanta in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), and Georgia state highway signs are seen scattered throughout. Certain landmarks such as the Newton County Courthouse in Covington stick out to knowledgeable Southerners.

Three recognizable locations from the Georgia episodes. Top: The old Newton County Courthouse in Covington Town Square, as seen from Rosco's patrol car. Middle: More Covington Town Square, seen from behind the wheel of the General Lee. Note that another General Lee is parked in front of a store. Either the Duke boys had an admirer or the production team left a car in the wrong spot! Both this photo and above photo are from "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01). Bottom: Luke and Bo practice with their arrows in front of the now-demolished Duke farmhouse in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

Three recognizable locations from the Georgia episodes.
Top: The old Newton County Courthouse in Covington Town Square, as seen from Rosco’s patrol car in the pilot episode.
Middle: More Covington Town Square, seen from behind the wheel of the General Lee. Note that another General Lee is parked in front of a pharmacy. Either the Duke boys had a town admirer or the production team left a car in the wrong spot!
Bottom: Luke and Bo practice with their arrows in front of the now-demolished Duke farmhouse in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

After the show’s move to California, these authentic location highlights went by the wayside in favor of a rustic-looking Warner Brothers set. Instead of Atlanta, many Southern cities were named in various episodes, adding a little more ambiguity to the mix. Quaint bucolic-sounding names are vaguely used; we learn in “The Runaway” that the Duke farm is on Mill Pond Road, eighteen miles outside of “town”.

Although the town of Hazard, Kentucky has been adopted by the show’s fans as an unofficial mecca, true fans recognize Newton County, Georgia as the real Hazzard County. Dukes fans who find themselves in the area should especially check out:

  • The Old Newton County Courthouse in Covington Town Square, 1124 Clark Street SW, Covington, GA 30014
  • The Georgia United Credit Union which doubled for the original Hazzard County jail in the pilot, 1281 Milstead Avenue NE, Conyers, GA 30012
  • The real Boar’s Nest building – now a Baptist church, of all things – at 290 Flat Rock Road, Oxford, GA 30054
  • Seney Hall on the Oxford College of Emory University campus where the General Lee jumped over Rosco’s police cruiser in the pilot episode and end of each opening credits sequence, also located in Oxford
  • The original Duke farm at 2201 Lenora Road, Loganville, GA 30052

Other than the farm, Covington Town Square received the most on-show exposure and appeared in “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01), “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04), and “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

Chris Credendino wrote an excellent and informative post in July 2014, chronicling his adventures along “the Dukes of Hazzard tour” from Covington to Conyers. In addition to mapping out the best route, he also created a fascinating and all-inclusive series of photos and observations describing how each place has changed in the last 35 years.

Chris also visits the spots of many famous jumps and stunts from the first five episodes. Some of the most interesting remarks come from his observations of how close everything was. According to Chris, Cooter’s junkyard, the gas station from “Mary Kaye’s Baby”, and the opening jump from “High Octane” were all within a few feet of each other.

Sadly, many of the landmarks from the original filming have fallen into ruin or have been demolished, including the Duke farmhouse which dated back to the Civil War. Luckily, Covington – informally dubbed “Hollywood South” – continues to be a popular location for feature films and TV shows, providing a welcome boost to the local economy and adding an authentic and colorful Southern flair to major productions.

How to Get the Look

Catherine Bach, John Schneider, and Tom Wopat on the Dukes set in California, 1979.

Catherine Bach, John Schneider, and Tom Wopat on the Dukes set in California, 1979.

Luke Duke mastered the “denim sandwich” look.

  • Blue denim jacket with 6 brass buttons, flapped chest pockets, 1-button cuffs, and 2-button waistband adjusters
  • White-and-blue “Tartan” plaid flannel snap-front shirt with large spread collars, Western-style yoke, snap-flapped chest pockets, and triple-snap cuffs
  • Dark blue denim bootcut jeans
  • Brown leather belt
  • Silver “bear claw” belt buckle with five black “paw print” marks and turquoise palm (with red enamel center)
  • Black leather knife pouch with snap-closed flap pocket, worn on right side of belt
  • Dark brown leather cowhide leather riding boots (or “cowboy boots”) with squared toes and “walking” heels
  • White cotton high-rise tube socks

Other shirts came and went, but this is the definitive Luke Duke outfit. A few hours in a Goodwill – preferably one south of the Mason-Dixon line – should yield the right items to complete your Duke boy attire.

The (Other) Cars

The pilot episode, “One-Armed Bandits”, alludes to Luke owning a car that was stolen by Cooter and impounded by the sheriff’s department. Either this idea was abandoned (likely), or Luke didn’t seem to care that he didn’t have his own car for six years after this. Although Bo is often thought to be the most talented driver of the two, Luke was certainly no slouch behind the wheel and got plenty of time in with General Lee, as well as the show’s other cars.

He also has an innate skill for driving new vehicles, impressing casino host Helen Hogan with his handiness behind the wheel of an 18-wheeler in “Route 7-11″ (Episode 1.12)… the first time he had ever driven one.

Many of the cars that Luke handled happened to be Plymouths.

Daisy’s Road Runner

As it isn’t officially confirmed as Daisy’s car until the second season when she shows her fury at the boys for destroying it, the yellow 1974 Plymouth Road Runner seen throughout the first season was often shared by the Duke family, but especially Luke and Daisy. This car got plenty of airtime during the first season when the producers still allowed the show to have plots before deciding that the General Lee needed to be the centerpiece of each show.

In “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), the Road Runner’s big-block engine is briefly seen and appears to be either the 400 or 440 V8. Based on availability, it’s likely that Daisy’s Road Runner had the 400.

1974 Plymouth Road Runner

An authentic Plymouth Road Runner in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

An authentic Plymouth Road Runner in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02). Both Bo and Luke shared the driving duties when it came to Daisy’s car, but you can see Luke behind the wheel in this scene.

Body Style: 2-door coupe

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 400 cu. in. (6.6 L) Chrysler “B”-series V8 with a Carter 4-barrel carburetor

Power: 250 hp (186.5 kW; 254 PS) @ 4800 RPM

Torque: 330 lb·ft (447 N·m) @ 3400 RPM

Transmission: 3-speed Chrysler TorqueFlite automatic

Wheelbase: 115 inches (2921 mm)

Length: 203.2 in. (5161 mm)

Width: 79.1 in. (2009 mm)

Height: 52.9 in. (3444 mm)

In her recollections, Catherine Bach often mistakes the model of her car and talks about her “yellow Dodge Charger”. This is not an outlandish mistake, as this generation of Chargers and Road Runners were very similar-looking Mopar muscle cars. Plus, all the talk of Chargers around the set in the constant scramble for General Lees must have further clouded Bach’s memory.

The show had five Road Runners in their inventory by the time filming moved to California halfway through the first season. Having difficulty securing the high-performance Road Runners, the show quietly switched Daisy’s car to a 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring. The Satellite was a very similar model, and – once it was re-painted yellow with the ’74 Road Runner’s black strobe stipes and hood stripes – debuted quietly as Daisy’s car in “Money to Burn” (Episode 1.11).

Interestingly, in “Goodbye, General Lee” (4.11) when a hypnotized Luke convinces Bo to get rid of the General Lee and get another car, they pick up a cream 1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring for $1,500. Needless to say, this decision is not long-lasting.

Cooter’s Plymouth Fury

Fans are often surprised to learn that there was an episode where the General Lee wasn’t featured at all! The third episode, “Mary Kaye’s Baby”, finds Bo and Luke behind the wheel of Cooter’s blue 1975 Plymouth Fury sedan. Unbeknownst to them – and against the terms of their probation – the car is full of moonshine that Cooter needed to deliver.

1975 Plymouth Fury

Luke behind the wheel of Cooter's Fury in "Mary Kaye's Baby" (Episode 1.03). Mary Kaye herself can be spotted in the back seat behind Luke.

Luke behind the wheel of Cooter’s Fury in “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03), parked under the Alcovy Road Bridge outside Covington. Mary Kaye herself can be spotted in the back seat behind Luke.

Body Style: 4-door sedan

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 318 cu. in. (5.2 L) Chrysler “LA”-series V8 with a Carter 2-bbl carburetor

Power: 150 hp (112 kW; 152 PS) @ 4000 RPM

Torque: 255 lb·ft (346 N·m) @ 1600 RPM

Transmission: 3-speed Chrysler TorqueFlite automatic

Wheelbase: 117.5 inches (2984 mm)

Length: 218.0 in. (5537 mm)

Width: 54.3 in. (1379 mm)

Height: 77.7 in. (1974 mm)

While it’s not totally clear why the Dukes would need to be driving this car (as Cooter could’ve easily borrowed the General and left the moonshine in there), it all makes sense in the episode’s climax when the Fury is destroyed by Luke’s dynamite-carrying arrow. Still, “Mary Kaye’s Baby” is an impressive episode that should’ve taught the producers a lesson that a show can be made interesting by its plot rather than just a super car.

Fury sedans received plenty of exposure – and damage – on The Dukes of Hazzard by serving as the ill-fated police cars. Cooter’s Fury is never specifically stated as having a 318 V8, but it was the base option for 1975 Fury V8 sedans and the most likely choice. All that Cooter volunteers about the car itself is that it has Edelbrock headers.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the series… or just catch reruns on CMT.

If the whole series is a bit much, take my advice and just check out the first season, which is my favorite.

The Quote

Bo, you drive like my fanny whips apple butter.

Footnotes

The Dukes of Hazzard was an ubiquitous part of my formative years for better (values) or worse (driving). In high school, a group of friends and I developed The Dirty South, a short series meant to be the “spiritual successor” to Dukes. The show featured two brothers – not cousins – who lived in an unincorporated area of Newton County, Georgia and continued their moonshining business under the unscrupulous nose of the white-suited county commissioner and his borderline moronic deputy sheriff.

Okay, so it may be more of a Dukes copycat than I choose to admit, but it was fun to make and it allowed me to show off just how good of a performer my 1992 Plymouth Acclaim V6 sedan could be in some of Pittsburgh’s forgotten rural areas. I peppered the show with a soundtrack featuring Jerry Reed and Lynyrd Skynyrd, and the theme song was Glen Campbell’s crossover camp classic “Southern Nights” from 1977… an interesting (and somewhat ironic) choice considering that the shoe was actually filmed in the north and almost exclusively during the day.

My attire on the show was more varied than the Duke boys, but my blue Aeropostale denim jacket was a staple. This magic jacket fit me just as well in high school when I weighed 160 pounds as it does now with me somewhat over 200 pounds. (Blame the Arby’s.) I plan on adding a page to this blog with photos, videos, and other samples of some of the fun stuff I filmed during these days, and The Dirty South will certainly be featured.

I wasn’t the only one recreating The Dukes of Hazzard‘s magic recently; John Schneider and Tom Wopat also reunited this summer for an Autotrader commercial that found both of them back in the General Lee and evading a series of police cars.

I refuse to discuss Coy and Vance. Consider this their sole mention. Ugh.

A Final Note

Thanks to all BAMF Style readers for your patience. It may be frustrating for some who expect to see posts about Cary Grant’s suits, James Bond’s dinner jackets, or Steve McQueen’s badass casual wear, but this was a labor of love for me. Monday’s Bo Duke post will probably be about the same length as this one, so non-Dukes fans can take the day off unless you want to read about the General Lee or maybe learn something new about a show that arguably had a large impact on American culture.


Bo Duke (and the General Lee)

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John Schneider as Bo Duke on the set of The Dukes of Hazzard (1979-1985).

John Schneider as Bo Duke on the set of The Dukes of Hazzard (1979-1985).

Vitals

John Schneider as Bo Duke, race car driver & former moonshine runner

Hazzard County, Georgia, Fall 1978

Background

Picture a cool fall day in 2005 on a suburban road just north of Pittsburgh. A young – and charming, if I may say – 16-year-old is out with his dad, taking his red 1992 Plymouth Acclaim for a spin with his learner’s permit freshly in his wallet. After about a half hour of learning how to obey basic traffic laws, the father turns to his son and says: “Okay, let’s turn it around and go home.”

The son nods obediently, yanks the emergency brake release, taps the column shifter into neutral, and – without reducing speed – jams his foot onto the emergency brake. The rear tires of the Acclaim lock up, the steering wheel is yanked to the left, and within seconds, the surprisingly powerful V6 engine roars as the Acclaim is shifted back into gear to head home.

The son smiles smugly with his perfectly-executed first attempt at a bootleggers’ turn while the father breaks his steadfast rule about cursing around the kids:

You’re not Bo fucking Duke!

Needless to say, the son – whom you’ve no doubt gathered was me – refrained from further bootleggers’ turns… at least while Dad was in the car.

While I’m grateful to both my father and mother, it truly was Bo Duke who taught me how to drive. I raised myself on spinning tires, bootleggers’ turns, and car chases being the norm. By the time I could slip behind the wheel of my own car, the first things I did were to install a Dixie horn under the hood and a Midland CB radio under the dash. (Before you ask… no, I never tried to jump it over anything. I didn’t have 300+ Acclaims at my disposal like Warner Brothers did.)

Thanks to The Dukes of Hazzard – and confirmed by Bullitt – it was always my dream to own a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T. The role of Bo Duke – speeding around skillfully in that great American muscle car – would’ve been a dream job for me, just as it was for 18-year-old John Schneider when the casting call went out in late 1978.

When Schneider heard about Bo, he knew that it was the role he had to have. Unfortunately for him, the role of a twenty-something Southerner might be hard for a New York-born teenager. Adopting a few tips from Civil War volunteers, Schneider presented his birth date as 1954 instead of 1960 and showed up to the auditions with a few days’ worth of stubble, a can of beer, and some chewing tobacco wadded into his mouth. His Southern accent and claim to have attended the “Georgia School of High Performance Driving” convinced the producers, and Schneider was cast as Bo Duke. (He eventually made good on at least one of his lies by attending the Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Driving.)

Schneider at the Holiday Inn the night before filming started in 1978. Other than the Cutty Sark t-shirt, he's in full Bo Duke regalia.

Schneider at the Holiday Inn the night before filming started in 1978. Other than the Cutty Sark t-shirt, he’s in full Bo Duke regalia.

After Reb Brown’s failed Captain America series was cancelled after just eight episodes, The Dukes of Hazzard premiered as its mid-season replacement in January 1979. Only nine episodes were initially ordered, but CBS appreciated both the production and the reception and decided to give the show a shot.

35 years later, John Schneider – and his very masculine voice – is still proud of his connection to the show, refurbishing and selling old General Lees for fans. Like his co-star Tom Wopat, Schneider was able to leverage his Dukes stardom into a successful country music career and is still acting today, most notably playing Superman’s father on the popular, long-running Smallville.

What’d He Wear?

Like his cousin Luke, Bo Duke has a base look best described as a tan snap-down shirt, light wash jeans, tan cowhide riding boots, a flashy gold belt buckle, and – in early seasons – a light blue t-shirt underneath. While some may choose to simply say this sums up his attire throughout the show, this statement would be inaccurate – plus it would render most of this post useless and a man in my position can’t afford to be made to look ridiculous!

Throughout the first season, Bo’s base shirt is a flannel snap-down shirt with distinctive Western-style jokes across the back and front shoulder panels. The color is primarily tan, although it appears somewhere on the yellow spectrum between mustard and gold – complementing Schneider’s flaxen locks – in some lighting.

Bo Duke in two Georgia-filmed first season episodes, "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01) and "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04).

Bo Duke in two Georgia-filmed first season episodes, “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01) and “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04).

An indication of the times, as filming began in 1978, Bo’s primary shirt has very large point collars that are at least 3″ long. This shirt is seen both in the first five episodes filmed in Georgia and the following first season episodes filmed in California.

Bo's collar was the pride of 1978.

Bo’s collar was the pride of 1978.

Occasionally throughout the first season, this shirt would be swapped for a yellow version with slimmer collars. This shirt is especially seen in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04), although some car interior shots from “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01) and “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02) also feature the slimmer-collared shirt.

Bo flicks a match in "High Octane" (Episode 1.05).

Bo flicks a match in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05). This is set just before the screenshot above where Bo’s collars are considerably larger. “High Octane” contained the most collar continuity errors of these early episodes.

Both shirts have patch pockets on the chest that close with a single snap on each pointed flap. (Rhyme!) The cuffs also have three snaps each, although Bo often wore the sleeves rolled up his arms.

Luke and Bo in "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04).

Luke and Bo in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04).

Bo almost always wore his shirt tucked in as the front and rear hem were very long. Not only does a long, untucked hem look sloppy, but it would make climbing in and out of the General Lee very difficult.

"One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01)

“One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01)

The pilot episode, “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01), marks the only time Bo wore a brown t-shirt underneath his shirt. This dark brown t-shirt had very short sleeves and a small patch pocket on the left chest.

Beginning in the next episode, “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), Bo was seen wearing exclusively blue undershirts. “Daisy’s Song” featured a very vivid sky blue t-shirt that was styled similarly to the previous one with its short sleeves and chest pocket.

From “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03) well into the third season, the t-shirt was a lighter tint of blue. Despite the different shirts, all featured the same short fit, short sleeves, and small chest pocket.

Bo's blue undershirt was much more vivid in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02, left) before switching to the paler blue shirt seen in all following episodes including "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04, right).

Bo’s blue undershirt was much more vivid in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02, left) before switching to the paler blue shirt seen in all following episodes including “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04, right).

In the second season, the costumers evidently faced some confusion when finding shirts for Bo. Rather than his usual – and more Southern – snap shirts, Bo was often seen wearing a light tan shirt with white plastic buttons down the front placket, much more like a traditional dress shirt. Instead of snapped chest pockets, these shirts only had a single breast pocket.

Bo and Luke grill an imposter in "Duke of Duke" (Episode 2.13).

Bo and Luke grill an imposter in “Duke of Duke” (Episode 2.13).

It’s possible that these “un-Southern” shirts were an attempted solution to keep Schneider cooler in the now warmer climate of California; perhaps the costumers couldn’t find any lightweight snap shirts but wanted to retain Bo’s base look.

By the third season, Warner Brothers noticed the stars appearing frequently on Teen Beat covers and decided the show would be best served as The Beefcakes of Hazzard. Bo’s undershirt was never seen again once he matched Luke with his shirt open halfway down his torso. This was likely also done to keep Schneider more comfortable so he wouldn’t have to suffer through the show’s many action scenes wearing multiple layers during the warm days in Southern California.

Bo adopted a lighter look for later seasons, seen here in "Mrs. Rosco P. Coltrane" (Episode 3.08).

Bo adopted a lighter look for later seasons, seen here in “Mrs. Rosco P. Coltrane” (Episode 3.08).

Bo’s main shirt also changed a good bit during the third season in terms of color, material, and style. The Western-style snap shirt thankfully returned, although the color was a pale cream that often reflected white under the hot California sun. The warm flannel had also been abandoned in favor of a more lightweight cotton. The cream shirt was briefly paired with his pale blue t-shirt for a few early third season episodes, but the shirt was typically worn on its own.

For the sixth season, the show’s costumers reverted to a more first season-inspired look for Bo as he once again wore a tan flannel shirt. This shirt differs from the first shirt with its more moderate-length collars and richer light brown color.

"Undercover Dukes, Pt. 1" (Episode 6.16)

“Undercover Dukes, Pt. 1″ (Episode 6.16)

The seventh and final season found Bo again wearing the cream shirt from the middle of the show’s run.

As one would expect for a country bumpkin, Bo was hardly ever seen wearing any pants other than his blue denim jeans. His jeans differed from his cousin’s by always being at least a shade lighter and certainly snugger. The high rise of his jeans emphasize Schneider’s already tall 6’3″ frame.

Bo takes it easy in "Double Sting" (Episode 1.13).

Bo takes it easy in “Double Sting” (Episode 1.13).

Especially for men, light wash jeans are difficult to wear fashionably. I’m not sure whether Bo’s lighter jeans were John Schneider’s preference or the production team’s choice, but they work better for Bo since he doesn’t wear a denim jacket with them.

In the first season, Bo’s jeans were more of a neutral light-medium wash, and they appeared to have the telling red Levi’s tag visible in several episodes. As the seasons went on, his jeans got both lighter and tighter. While tight jeans were also in fashion back in the late ’70s and early ’80s, the fit was also probably helpful for Schneider so there would be no baggy parts snagging while constantly climbing in and out of the General Lee.

These awkward ass shots both show the progression of Bo's jeans through the first, third, and fourth seasons as well as potential manufacturer's marks. While Luke preferred plainer jeans, Bo's were a little more unique. Note the red Levi's tag in "Money to Burn" (Episode 1.11, left), the distinctive "X" belt loop in "Mrs. Rosco P. Coltrane" (Episode 3.08, center), and the rear pocket stitching in "Miss Tri-Counties" (Episode 4.24, right).

These awkward ass shots both show the progression of Bo’s jeans through the first, third, and fourth seasons as well as potential manufacturer’s marks. While Luke preferred plainer jeans, Bo’s were a little more unique. Note the red Levi’s tag in “Money to Burn” (Episode 1.11, left), the distinctive “X” belt loop in “Mrs. Rosco P. Coltrane” (Episode 3.08, center), and the rear pocket stitching in “Miss Tri-Counties” (Episode 4.24, right).

When Schneider and Wopat made their triumphant return after nearly a season-long separation from the show, both cousins were back in darker wash jeans that allowed slightly more breathing room.

A much more reasonable pair of jeans than the skin-tight light wash ones of earlier seasons.

A much more reasonable pair of jeans than the skin-tight light wash ones of earlier seasons.

Corresponding with his lighter jeans, Bo also consistently wore lighter-colored boots than his cousin. Bo’s boots were tan cowhide riding boots with taller cowboy heels that both boosted Schneider’s height and gave Bo more of a countrified strut.

Bo's boots after he and Luke are left clothesless by two larceny-minded girlfriends in "Deputy Dukes" (Episode 1.10).

Bo’s boots after he and Luke are left clothesless by two larceny-minded girlfriends in “Deputy Dukes” (Episode 1.10).

In “The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08), a small plot point derives from Bo purchasing a stiff pair of boots to replace his old ones. While switching them out on the street, we get a rare glimpse of Bo’s choice of socks. He appears to wear plain white cotton socks with a very high rise.

Note the stylistic differences between Bo's new boots here in "The Big Heist" (Episode 1.08) and the ones seen in "Deputy Dukes" above. The "Big Heist" boots would be much more similar to the ones worn for the remainder of the show.

Note the stylistic differences between Bo’s new boots here in “The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08) and the ones seen in “Deputy Dukes” above. The “Big Heist” boots would be much more similar to the ones worn for the remainder of the show.

Both Bo and Luke wore brown leather belts that, either by accident or design, matched each cousin’s personality. While Luke only wore plain brown belts, Bo was always wearing a flashier Western-styled dark brown belt with ornate white and brown tooling.

Bo's belt was the only item of either cousin's wardrobe to remain totally unchanged from the show's start to finish.

Bo’s belt was the only item of either cousin’s wardrobe to remain totally unchanged from the show’s start to finish.

Bo wore two different belt buckles over the course of the show. The first buckle was only worn during the first five episodes – the ones filmed in Georgia. This buckle was a large dulled brass rectangle with five alternating horizontal stripes in dark enamel and brass. The center of the buckle was a brass star surrounded by a circle, filled in with the same dark enamel. Stars make for a very common belt buckle motif, especially in the South and areas surrounding the “Lone Star State” of Texas.

Bo switched his belt buckle when the show's production moved to California. The star buckle is seen here in "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04) and the oval is from "Route 7-11" (Episode 1.12)

Bo switched his belt buckle when the show’s production moved to California. The star buckle is seen here in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04) and the oval is in “Route 7-11″ (Episode 1.12).

Beginning with “Swamp Molly” (Episode 1.06), the first California-filmed episode, Bo started wearing the gold oval buckle he would wear for the rest of the show’s run. This buckle had a blue turquoise center surrounded by six “teardrop” perforations.

Bo’s Other Shirts

Despite what it looks like, the Duke boys did wear different shirts… occasionally. Typically, Bo only changed his shirt when Luke did, and it was almost always in situations not involving the General Lee so that the editing team didn’t have to worry about continuity when recycling shots of the car in motion.

Bo’s wardrobe remained much more consistent throughout the show than Luke’s, thus it was more noticable when Bo actually appeared in a different shirt.

The bright red flannel shirt Bo wears to the Starr recording studio in Atlanta is very similarly-styled to his early yellow shirts with the snap front, large point collars, and chest pockets. Unusual for Bo during the first season, he wears no undershirt. It’s a very loud shirt, and that’s saying something for a guy who drives a bright orange Dodge Charger.

Bo leans another of life's tough lessons in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

Bo leans another of life’s tough lessons in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

This red shirt only appears in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02) and only for the scenes set in and around Atlanta. By the time he returns to Hazzard, Bo returns to the comfort of his yellow shirt and t-shirt. The reason for his red shirt hasn’t been explained – at least not to me – but it was likely a way for the show to re-dress their characters for the sake of variety. Continuity could be sacrificed since “Daisy’s Song” contains their sole trip to Atlanta and all shots of the General Lee driving through the city would be useless for other episodes.

Behind-the-scenes shots from the filming of "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02) in Atlanta. Note the various red-shirted stuntmen around the General Lee (lower left), the black baseball cap Schneider wore off-screen (upper left), and the fact that Wopat wore Luke's denim jacket between takes, likely to stay warm as the temperatures dipped (right).

Behind-the-scenes shots from the filming of “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02) in Atlanta. Note the various red-shirted stuntmen around the General Lee (lower left), the black baseball cap Schneider wore off-screen (upper left), and the fact that Wopat wore Luke’s denim jacket between takes, likely to stay warm as the temperatures dipped (right).

Bo next switches up his attire when he and Luke take ATF agent Roxanne Huntley “jukin'” in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05). While Luke is set up at the bar to bait Enos, Bo is the one actually out on the floor to  juke and romance Roxanne. For this outing, he wears a light blue chambray shirt that snaps down the front, although he practically wears it open all the way down to his waist line.

Even Hasselhoff buttoned it up once in a while, Bo. "High Octane" (Episode 1.05) introduced ATF agent Roxanne Huntley, which could have been a very interesting character as the show went on if this wasn't her only appearance.

Even Hasselhoff buttoned it up once in a while, Bo.
“High Octane” (Episode 1.05) introduced ATF agent Roxanne Huntley, which could have been a very interesting character as the show went on if this wasn’t her only appearance.

A small black logo patch is visible on the top of the right chest pocket flap. Although too light-colored to be the same shirt, it is likely that Bo’s jukin’ shirt is from the same manufacturer as his royal blue chambray shirt worn in the promotional photo shoots. In both the photo shoot and the Boar’s Nest scenes, he wears it with a slightly darker pair of jeans than usual to provide a reasonable contrast.

Bo jukin' vs. Bo's pre-production photo. Can anyone identify the logo? It looks somewhat like Wrangler's logo, but the word itself looks more like "Flagler".

Bo jukin’ vs. Bo’s pre-production photo. Can anyone identify the logo? It looks somewhat like Wrangler’s logo, but the word itself looks more like “Flagler”.

A few seasons passed before Bo again felt comfortable in new clothes. On Christmas Eve, in “The Great Santa Claus Chase” (Episode 3.09), Boss Hogg drops in on the Dukes as they trim their tree, exchange gifts, and sing “O Holy Night”. Sure, it’s a corny, bucolic country Christmas, but Dukes always put warmth before humor and Rosco’s surprised yelp at the realization of Santa’s existence is perfectly timed before a quick cut to the outside of the house.

For Christmas Eve, Bo wears a warm dark green shirt with white and black plaid. Unlike most of the Dukes’ shirts, it buttons down the front with large white plastic buttons down the front placket rather than snaps. The patch pockets on the chest are also unflapped with just a single button to close. He wears it with his usual light wash jeans and caramel-colored boots.

Bo and Luke dress up for Christmas by wearing shirts they don't wear everyday. (from "The Great Santa Clause Chase", Episode 3.09)

Bo and Luke dress up for Christmas by wearing shirts they don’t wear everyday.

This shirt, with its subtle but seasonal color, is a fine option for a casual Christmas celebration.

Schneider also this shirt on the cover of his 1983 album If You Believe. As his belt, jeans, and haircut are also part of his Bo Duke persona, it’s safe to say that Schneider felt a strong association with the character. (Despite the title and context of the shirt, If You Believe was not a Christmas album. Schneider had previously recorded an album of holiday songs in 1981, titled White Christmas.)

Nothing like a denim patch for the artist's name on an album cover.

Nothing like a denim patch for the artist’s name on an album cover.

Three more years would pass before Bo appeared again in plaid, this time wearing a gray plaid shirt when romancing his “boss”, Mary Beth Carver, in “Undercover Dukes, Part 2″ (Episode 6.17). This is his busiest shirt yet, with gray tones predominant and a blue and brown overcheck of various widths crossing throughout the shirt.

This shirt is lighter weight than his flannels – likely cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two – and has slimmer spread collars and pointed patch pockets on the chest. The Western-style yokes are present, and the two chest pocket flaps each have two snaps – each snap on its own point.

Bo enjoys a compromising position with Mary Beth Carver in "Undercover Dukes, Pt. 2" (Episode 6.17).

Bo enjoys a compromising position with Mary Beth Carver in “Undercover Dukes, Pt. 2″ (Episode 6.17).

The “Undercover Dukes” two-partner, as well as “Welcome Back, Bo ‘n’ Luke” (Episode 5.19), also featured Bo in his racing suit.

Bo explains a thing or two to his "racing manager".

Bo explains a thing or two to his “racing manager”.

He wears a white lightweight rollneck under the suit, best seen when switching off with Daisy for the conclusion of the climactic race in “Undercover Dukes”.

“Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01) also offers a much different look for Bo as we’re taken on a flashback to 1976 when the Dukes first obtained General Lee. Bo, implied to be freshly out of high school – whether he actually graduated or not is left unsaid – wears more traditional “redneck” attire, perhaps a nod to the immaturity of his younger age.

Instead of his usual tan or yellow, Bo wears a red short-sleeve shirt with a thin white and black overcheck. It has black-toned snaps down the front with matching snaps on each of the pointed chest pocket flaps.

BoDuke-CLO-701FB1

“Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01).

The shirt’s spread collar is a bit too slim to truly be convincing as a shirt from 1976 (as the episode was filmed in 1984), but it’s a refreshing – if uninentional – callback to the younger Bo’s predilection for red as seen in “Daisy’s Song”. The shirt also has 1″ cuffed short sleeves that barely clear his shoulder and curved front yokes rather than the traditional Western points seen on most of his other shirts.

Bo also channels his inner Cooter by donning a dirty yellow trucker hat with “RADIALS” stitched in red across the structured foam crown below a dulled gold sphere. Like all trucker hats, the back half is composed of plastic mesh and has a plastic adjustor strap.

The show made about a 30% effort to make "Happy Birthday, General Lee" an accurate flashback.

The show made about a 30% effort to make “Happy Birthday, General Lee” an accurate flashback.

Despite the new shirt and hat, Bo still has the same jeans, belt buckle, and boots as he wore in later episodes.

In fact, other than Bo’s outfit, Rosco’s mustache, and Boss’ reduced weight, the episode doesn’t try very hard to remain consistent with the characters’ looks at the outset. Luke’s boots, ring, belt, and buckle are the same he wore in later seasons, Daisy is still ’80s-ed, Cooter is still the “clean living” mechanic, and the declaration that Boss was too cheap to hire even one deputy doesn’t jibe with the multiple deputies seen in the pilot episode.

Bo’s Jackets

Bo rarely wears a jacket, usually just preferring to layer a shirt over his t-shirt. Since “The Great Santa Clause Chase” (Episode 3.09) takes place – obviously – at Christmastime, the showrunners decided it should be a slightly colder day in Hazzard and brought out Bo’s brown corduroy “suit” jacket that made brief appearances the first two seasons of the show.

"The Great Santa Clause Chase" (Episode 3.09)

“The Great Santa Clause Chase” (Episode 3.09)

This jacket will be discussed in its own context in the next session, but keep in mind that this is what Bo considered part of a suit.

If sueded corduroy isn’t your idea of redneck outerwear, perhaps the olive drab army jacket that Bo borrows from amateur thief Neil Bishop in “The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08) would be more fitting. After Neil robs Boss at finger-pretending-to-be-gun-point then holds the Dukes hostage, somehow the Dukes decide it’s a good idea to team up with Neil and fake-rob him again to trick him into- you know what? Just know that Bo borrows the jacket.

Armed only with a Bruce Willis-style smirk, Bo makes off with Boss Hogg's ill-gotten green.

Armed only with a Bruce Willis-style smirk, Bo makes off with Boss Hogg’s ill-gotten green.

Neil’s jacket is a variation of the U.S. Army’s classic M-1950 field jacket in olive drab (techncially OG 107) constructed of 9-oz. treated cotton designed to be both wind resistant and water repellent. It has a covered button fly with an exposed top button in brown plastic. The jacket has four outer pockets – two large patch pockets on the chest and two on the hips – and an elasticized waistband. The cuffs button on a pointed tab, and the epaulettes fasten to the neck with similar brown buttons.

Though Bo only wears the jacket once, it works well for both his character and a proud, active Southerner. Of course, the show’s location in sunny California prevented jackets from being a practical everyday costume consideration.

The previously-discussed sartorial anomaly “Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01) gives us a glimpse of the show’s attempt at a flashback episode where Hazzard in 1976 looks far more like it does in 1984 than it did in 1978. The episode briefly shows Bo exiting the family truck wearing a distinctive blue denim jacket with tan suede panels across the shoulders and back. A large “clean denim” patch on the back indicates that a large patch or logo has likely been removed from the jacket. Bo removes the jacket almost immediately when he gets out of the truck – as this episode was filmed in the middle of a hot California summer, we can’t blame him – and it is never seen again.

Young Bo sporting his denim jacket in "Happy Birthday, General Lee" (Episode 7.01).

Young Bo sporting his denim jacket in “Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01).

Many behind-the-scenes photos, especially taken while filming the first five episodes in the chilly Georgia fall, show John Schneider wearing a variety of jackets between takes.

Behind the scenes on Dukes. Schneider bundles up between takes of "Mary Kaye's Baby" (Episode 1.03) (left), and both Wopat and Schneider don jackets during the production of one of the show's later installments.

Behind the scenes on Dukes. Schneider bundles up between takes of “Mary Kaye’s Baby” (Episode 1.03) (left), and both Wopat and Schneider don jackets during the production of one of the show’s later installments.

As much of Schneider’s personality directed Bo’s personality, most of his personal attire would be very appropriate for Bo.

Bo Dresses Up

As there’s not much formality required for driving around in a muscle car all day, Bo and Luke are very rarely seen wearing anything fancier than jeans and a snap shirt. However, a visit to their probation officer and a wedding – in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05) and “The Runaway” (Episode 2.14), respectively – call for a suit and tie.

Although Uncle Jesse owns a traditional suit, Bo and Luke decide to go a different route. Luke wears an all-denim suit that redefines ’70s tack, and Bo presents himself in a brown sueded corduroy variation of a leisure suit. Of the two outfits, Bo’s is the least offensive, but it’s still not something that should belong in your closet.

Bo's rural-leisure suit, as seen in "High Octane" (Episode 1.05).

Bo’s rural-leisure suit, as seen in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

On its own, there’s nothing wrong with Bo’s jacket, a warm sepia brown suede blouson with camp collars and five dark brown horn buttons down the front placket. The corded wales are very thin, giving the jacket a soft, suede-like texture. It has large patch pockets on each hip that close with a buttoned flap. The elasticized cuffs and waistband are both dark brown.

Bo’s trousers are a matching shade of brown, constructed of the same thin-wale corduroy. They are flat front with plain-hemmed bottoms that slightly flare out over his boots. Like all of Bo’s pants, they are very slim-fitting with a straight leg, although they rise lower than Bo’s jeans. He sometimes places his hands in the slanted front pockets. There are also jetted rear pockets that each close with a button. The trousers appear to have a plain waistband with no belt loops.

Bo steps into the old Newton County Courthouse, doubling as the Hazzard County Courthouse, in "High Octane" (Episode 1.05).

Bo steps into the old Newton County Courthouse, doubling as the Hazzard County Courthouse, in “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

Bo’s dress shirt is much more traditional than the plaid shirt favored by his cousin. It is light tan with a thin tonal stripe and large spread collars. The shirt buttons down a front placket with white plastic buttons that match those on the rounded barrel cuffs. There is no breast pocket.

BoDuke-CLS-ShrtTie

Bo completes the look with a light brown woolen tie. Some shots on the show itself and behind-the-scenes photos of Schneider goofing off at the Boar’s Nest set reveal the tie’s black rear tag, devoid of a manufacturer’s logo.

On and off camera at the Boar's Nest during "High Octane" (Episode 1.05).

On and off camera at the Boar’s Nest during “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

Of the two, Bo is clearly the more casual dresser as he loosens his tie as soon as it isn’t needed anymore, wearing it totally untied when getting gas at the Boar’s Nest. In the context of the series, there’s no need for him to keep himself duded up, but it provides a contrast to Luke, who keeps his tie fastened throughout the sequence.

The Deputy Dukes

Bo and Luke both enjoyed a brief foray into law enforcement when they were deputized into the Hazzard County Sheriff’s Department in the appropriately-named episode “Deputy Dukes” (Episode 1.10). The two cousins donned the uniforms (but not the sidearms) of a Hazzard County deputy sheriff in a near-suicidal mission from Boss and Rosco to deliver “Public Enemy #1″, the generically-named Rocky Marlowe, back to Hazzard County for a change of venue. The plan is further complicated by a lady policeman who may not be all she says she is (played by Dolly Parton’s less buxom sister Stella), two generic hoodlums, and a pair of devious women who steal clothing from men.

Each cousin is given a light blue cotton deputy’s shirt with seven white plastic buttons down the front placket, epaulettes, and box-pleated patch pockets on each chest with pointed button-down flaps. The spread collars are slim for 1979, and the long sleeves fasten with two buttons.

Bo looks a little more prouder than his cousin with their new vocation.

Bo looks a little more prouder than his cousin with their new vocation.

The deputy shirt worn by Tom Wopat is available for sale at The Golden Closet for $950. Though it’s mislabeled as the blue chambray shirt he wore throughout the second season, the style and badge holes make it obvious that this was his shirt in “Deputy Dukes” (Episode 1.10).

Each shirt had an American flag patch on the top of the right arm and a custom-made Hazzard County Sheriff’s Department badge on the left. The Dukes were also issued gold name badges worn above the right pocket and gold six-pointed sheriff’s stars worn above the left pocket.

A tense moment on screen and more playful off camera.

A tense moment on screen and more playful off camera.

The Dukes also were given the black trooper-style hat, black tie, black flannel trousers, and black leather belt issued by the sheriff’s department. The ties were held into place by gold tie bars.

Accessories

Bo differentiates himself by being the only character to actually wear a cowboy hat on the show, despite the promotional material featuring he, Luke, and Daisy often sporting them. In the pilot episode, “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01), Bo takes Jilly Rae Dodson into the middle of a field to teach her how to shoot a bow and arrow. In addition to offering some exposition about the cousins’ probation terms forbidding them from owning guns, the scene also gives us the single instance of Bo wearing a hat that promotional photos would lead you to believe never left his head.

Bo wears his datin' hat in "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01).

Bo wears his datin’ hat in “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01).

Supposedly, the hat on the show actually belonged to Guy Del Russo, the Georgia makeup artist who worked on the first five episodes of The Dukes of Hazzard as well as Smokey and the Bandit. Bo’s pinched-front hat is well-worn tan leather with a dirty brim. The dark brown leather band has silver diamond-shaped diamond head studs and a few multi-colored feathered tucked into the right side.

As the flashier Duke cousin, Bo wears his sunglasses slightly more than Luke does, although they’re still very sparsely seen. In “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02), when each cousin wears a pair of sunglasses, Bo wears gold-framed aviators with solid dark green lenses. They briefly appear again in “Undercover Dukes, Pt. 2″ (Episode 6.17).

Luke and Bo scope out the Atlanta music scene in "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

Luke and Bo scope out the Atlanta music scene in “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

The “Undercover Dukes” two-parter also features Bo in a pair of very ’80s dark brown plastic wraparound racing sunglasses.

Neither Bo nor Luke wore wristwatches on the show, but each cousin carried a silver open-faed pocket watch that received occasional use. Bo kept his in his right shirt pocket, as seen when he is driving the 18-wheeler casino in “Route 7-11″ (Episode 1.12).

Like his cousin Luke, Bo keeps a flapped leather pouch on the right side of his belt for his knife. The pouch is either worn black or dark brown leather with a single silver snap.

For all of the fights they got into with villains, Bo and Luke never thought to just use their knives and stab the bad guys a few times. Would've made for a less family-friendly show but it would've made incoming crooks thick twice before bringing their corruption to Hazzard County. Probably would've straightened ol' Boss out too.

For all of the fights they got into with villains, Bo and Luke never thought to just use their knives and stab the bad guys a few times. Would’ve made for a less family-friendly show but it would’ve made incoming crooks thick twice before bringing their corruption to Hazzard County. Probably would’ve straightened ol’ Boss out too.

Promotional Attire

The promotional photos for The Dukes of Hazzard show Schneider’s cheeky side that certainly worked its way into his portrayal of Bo. Many of the photos taken before the show was filmed focused primarily on the three leads – John Schneider, Tom Wopat, and Catherine Bach – in order to draw in a younger audience as CBS and Warner Brothers weren’t confident in the rural-based show’s market value.

Since the show hadn’t begun yet, the producers weren’t yet certain how the cousins would dress. All that was certain was that the boys would wear snap shirts and jeans… and Daisy would wear her famous extra-short shorts. Only the belt and boots would remain the same from Bo’s photo shoot onto the show itself.

Cowboy hats, guitars, moonshine, and an unpainted General Lee. Obviously, the show hadn't found its direction yet.

Cowboy hats, guitars, moonshine, and an unpainted General Lee. Obviously, the show hadn’t found its direction yet. At least – and for this we can all be thankful – Daisy already had her image solidified.

One of the yellow wide-collared snap shirts Schneider wore during the photo shoots eventually found its way onto the show. The other shirt worn by Schneider was a royal blue chambray snap shirt that appears to be a darker version of the blue “jukin'” shirt from “High Octane” (Episode 1.05).

Schneider also wore plenty more accessories than Bo ever did for the promotional photos, including an ornate brown cowboy hat and plenty of silver and torquoise jewelry including a necklace pendant, a bracelet, and a pinky ring. The photos also feature a stainless watch on his wrist, very out of character for Bo as he was never seen wearing a wristwatch on the series. The photo shoot also utilized a very flashy and very large gold oval belt buckle that was replaced by the simpler star by the time production was underway.

Schneider poses for two studio shots before filming began on the Dukes. Never would we see Bo bedazzled in turquoise or holding the guitar that snuck its way into many of these photos. Even the actual hat he wore in the pilot was different than the one featured here.

Schneider poses for two studio shots before filming began on the Dukes. Never would we see Bo bedazzled in turquoise or holding the guitar that snuck its way into many of these photos. Even the actual hat he wore in the pilot was different than the one featured here.

Schneider was especially receptive to the country aspects of the show and worked much of Bo’s attire into his offscreen image.

Go Big or Go Home

Bo Duke was the impulsive cousin, the yin to Luke’s cooler-headed yang who often got the duo (or the whole family) into trouble with his quick thinking and heart on his sleeve. He both fell in love easily and would get angry easily, and often Luke, Daisy, or Uncle Jesse would need to talk him out of whatever emotion he was experiencing.

Bo certainly loved women, but his seduction tactics could've used work. #YesAllWomen

Bo certainly loved women, but his seduction tactics could’ve used work. #YesAllWomen

Bo’s impulsiveness certainly worked to his benefit also. The fast-acting Bo was often tasked with firing the arrows destined for their foe, although Luke was quite the bow marksman himself. His leadfoot also came in handy in the driver’s seat of the General Lee. For all of its faults, “Happy Birthday, General Lee” (Episode 7.01) wisely shows Bo unknowingly taking the General down a construction road to a closed bridge. Rather than trying to stop the car or turn around, Bo decided to just go with it and discovered instantly that the General Lee was more than capable of jumping over a ravine.

As the most common driver of the duo, Bo is likely based on Jerry Rushing himself. Jerry Elijah Rushing was the actual source for most of the Dukes‘ story, having regaled producer Gy Waldron with tales of moonshining in North Carolina. By the time he was 12 years old, Jerry had a reputation around the hills as a reckless but talented moonshine runner – or “moonrunner” – that could outrun any trap sent his way. He eventually got his hands on a modified 1958 Chrysler 300D, a powerful 2-door boasting Chrysler’s innovative 392 cubic inch “FirePower” Hemi V8 engine. With speeds topping 140 mph, Rushing’s 300D became a local legend. He named the car “Traveller” after General Lee’s horse, and fitted it with a rig that would dump oil on the road to further impair any lawman’s pursuing cars.

With the success of moonshine stories like Thunder Road (1958) and White Lightning (1973), Rushing decided he had a story worthy of being told. Rushing divulged tales to Gy Waldron of running whiskey made by his wise old Uncle Worley, often accompanied by his brother Johnny and female cousin Delane. Leaving the moonshine life behind him, Rushing became a capable bow hunter and entertainment advisor.

Jerry Rushing's small part on The Dukes of Hazzard as unscrupulous used car dealer Ace Parker in "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04). This would be his sole appearance despite his belief that the character would be recurring, and the way he felt treated by the show led to multiple lawsuits.

Jerry Rushing’s small part on The Dukes of Hazzard as unscrupulous used car dealer Ace Parker in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04). This would be his sole appearance despite his belief that the character would be recurring, and the way he felt treated by the show led to multiple lawsuits.

Waldron was captivated by Rushing’s stories and, in 1975, the film Moonrunners was modestly released. Filmed in Georgia on a shoestring budget, Rushing’s stories came to life against the raw and real-life setting of a small part of Appalachia that still hasn’t changed in the last forty years. Rushing, who had a small role in the film as a syndicate henchman, was portrayed as the impulsive Bobby Lee Hagg (played by Hill Street Blues‘ Kiel Martin). Bobby Lee’s cousin Grady was more of an easygoing womanizer, played by James Mitchum; James was Robert’s son with whom he had starred in Thunder Road. The proud family patriarch who compared his moonshine to a “Model T Ford” was now Uncle Jesse, played by veteran screen actor Arthur Hunnicutt. Though not a cousin, the film’s eye candy Beth was played by newcomer Chris Forbes.

While Rushing’s stories alone would have been enough to inspire an entertaining flick, Waldron and producer Bob Clark added a new element of corruption in the form of Jake Rainey, a syndicate gangster who wants to monopolize the county’s moonshine industry. Together with the weary and corruptable Sheriff Rosco Coltrane, Rainey’s men find resistance with the proud Hagg family.

The film was a moderate success, especially among drive-ins in the South, but additional movies like Gator and Smokey and the Bandit revived the public’s interest in good ol’ boys fighting the system with a fast car and illegal liquor. Waldron returned to Rushing, and The Dukes of Hazzard was developed.

Fall scenes like this tranquil chase from the pilot episode would be lost once the show moved to the land of sunny permanence in southern California.

Fall scenes like this tranquil chase from the pilot episode would be lost once the show moved to the land of sunny permanence in southern California.

The first five episodes, the ones filmed in Georgia, are most reflective of Waldron and Rushing’s vision. Most of the story lines – the pregnant woman by the side of the road running from gangsters, the friendly relationship with certain revenue agents – all derived from real life experiences. Waldron often explains that if production had remained in Georgia, more of these accurate and interesting stories would have come to life on the show rather than the formulaic “bad guys show up” plot, as Tom Wopat eloquently stated.

These early episodes are also the most aesthetically accurate from the old buildings in Covington Town Square and Newton County’s picturesque dirt roads surrounded by changing leaves to even the inimitable human scenery that rings true.

For better or worse, these two extras perfectly represent the actual types of people who would frequent the Boar's Nest.

For better or worse, these two extras perfectly represent the actual types of people who would frequent the Boar’s Nest.

More discussion of the actual Georgia locations from the first five episodes can be found in the Luke Duke post from last Friday.

How to Get the Look

"Repo Men" (Episode 1.04)

“Repo Men” (Episode 1.04)

Though more prone to variation than his cousin Luke, Bo had a solid look that is most associated with him.

  • Tan or yellow long-sleeve shirt with snap-front placket, Western-style yokes, snapped chest pockets with flaps, and triple-snap cuffs
  • Light blue cotton short-sleeve shirt with breast pocket
  • Light-medium wash blue denim jeans
  • Brown ornately-tooled leather belt
  • Gold or brass belt buckle with turquoise center or gold star
  • Dark brown leather flapped knife pouch with single snap, worn on belt
  • Light brown leather “cowboy” riding boots
  • White cotton high rise socks

If it’s a sunny day, Bo might accessorize with a dirty light brown pinched-crown cowboy hat or a gold-framed pair of aviator sunglasses. A cold day may call for a brown corduroy blouson jacket. Or maybe just a t-shirt and a snap shirt are all you need!

The Car

Only on a show as good-natured as The Dukes of Hazzard could two lead characters get away with driving a car named General Lee… enhanced with a large Confederate battle flag painted on the roof.

If you go to Google Image Search and type “General Lee”, you won’t see a single photo of the bearded Confederate war leader. Instead, you’ll see dozens of images of a bright orange 1969 Dodge Charger R/T with a black “01” painted on each side and… that flag… painted on the roof. Although somewhere around 300 General Lees were made – and crashed – during the run of the show, at least twice that many replicas have been made by fans and collectors since Dukes went off the air in 1985.

When developing the show, Gy Waldron and his team knew the car was going to be a special part of it. Moonshiners like Jerry Rushing, Junior Johnson, and Willie Clay Call all fondly remember their big old Fords and Chryslers used to deliver whiskey. Not only would the Dukes be moonshiners, they also were racers. Thus, the search was on for a car that would be convincing as a powerful performer that could evade both the police and fellow racers. The Pontiac Trans Am, freshly popular from its use in Smokey and the Bandit, was a top contender before the Charger was famously chosen.

Bo maneuvers the General into the Hazzard County junkyard in "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01).

Bo maneuvers the General into the Hazzard County junkyard in “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01).

The name “General Lee” resulted from Jerry Rushing’s old Chrysler, which was named “Traveller” after the real Robert E. Lee’s horse. Deciding to cut out the middlehorse, Warner Brothers settled on naming the car after the man himself.

Once the show was written and cast, Warner Brothers purchased the first three Dodge Chargers to “play” the General Lee and shipped them to Georgia for the filming. Transportation coordinator John Marendi began labeling each Charger as LEE1, LEE2, or LEE3, distinguished with a small black tag besides the vin tag on each car.

Each of the first three LEE cars are prominently seen in the first five Georgia episodes in various states of repair…

LEE1, an original 1969 Dodge Charger, was a second unit car with a full rollcage and a 383 V8 engine. The original “light brown metallic” (T3 code) color was repainted orange to look like the General with the flag and the “01” vinyl decals placed before shipping. The interior was tan leather with a three-speaker dash and air conditioning. LEE1 is very distinguishable from the others as it was the only one to retain the chrome rocker panels.

LEE1 didn’t receive much original screen time, but it literally leapt to stardom in “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01) when stuntman Craig Baxley jumped it over Rosco’s patrol car in front of Seney Hall at Oxford College. This jump, on November 11, 1978 (35 years ago tomorrow!), became legendary as it closed out the opening credits of most episodes. Unfortunately, the 16′ high and 82′ long jump wrecked the car on impact despite the concrete weights in the trunk to keep the car from overturning due to the heavy 383 engine.

The famous jump in front of Seney Hall was made 36 years ago today by Craig Baxley.

The famous jump in front of Seney Hall was made 36 years ago today by Craig Baxley.

Lessons were learned, and the car was repurposed as Richard Petty’s crashed junker in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04). By that time, it had its front seats and 1969-styled grille and taillight panel removed in order to modify a 1968 Charger to look like a ’69 for future episodes. LEE1 was retired to a Georgia junkyard after its appearances on the show, but it was later bought and restored by John Schneider to its original condition.

LEE1, post-jump and repurposed as an old Richard Petty racer, in "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04).

LEE1, post-jump and repurposed as an old Richard Petty racer, in “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04).

LEE2, likely another original 1996 Dodge Charger, was another second unit car with a full rollcage and tan interior. Like LEE1, the orange paint and “01” vinyl decal were added before shipping it to Georgia. LEE2 performed the first jump actually seen on the show when the General leaps over and down Covington’s Elm Street in pursuit of Rosco’s stolen patrol car.

LEE3, a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE (Special Edition), was the first unit close-up car for these episodes. It was the second General Lee built by Warner Brothers, but it was labeled last because it hadn’t yet made it to Marendi’s shop for repairs. The original color was green (F5 code) with a tan interior, woodgrain dash, power windows, and power brakes. It carried the powerful 440 Magnum V8 under the hood with a 4-barrel carburetor and rated horsepower of 375 hp… although this was rumored to be much higher. The green was repainted with a 1975 Corvette “Flame Red”, but a special base coat was needed when the red appeared too blotchy as it was applied directly over factory paint.

LEE3 stayed parked at the Holiday Inn near Conyers with the cast and crew for two months and was often used for publicity photos… often with the doors open and the number missing! This General Lee was the last to receive the trademark “01”, which was painted on the side by Larry West upon the car’s arrival in Norcross, GA. LEE3 was the only original of the three cars to survive all Georgia episodes and was returned to California for use in episodes well into the second season.

These three General Lees were the only ones in the series to sport the crossed Confederate and checkered race flags on the rear panel between the trunk and rear window. Four sets of the crossed flag decals were created, but only three were used. For the ease of continuity, these decals were discontinued when the show moved to California and the surviving General Lee had its crossed flags removed.

Rudy the orphan does his part to stamp out racism by spitting orange soda on the inside of the General's rear window in "One-Armed Bandits" (Episode 1.01).

Rudy the orphan does his part to stamp out racism by spitting orange soda on the inside of the General’s rear window in “One-Armed Bandits” (Episode 1.01).

Three more General Lees were built during the Georgia production, including at least one 1968 Charger that used the grille and taillight panel from LEE1. Eventually, the show’s desperation for General Lees grew to the point where producers would stake out Charger drivers in parking lots to ask to buy their car on the spot. Several numbers have been given for the number of Chargers used on the show, ranging from 256 (according to Ben Jones) to 321 (according to the LEE1 website). Many give an estimate of 309, which sounds accurate enough. At least 23 are known to have survived the filming and still exist; some are restored, some are still showing their battle wounds from the show’s expert stunt team.

A Warner Brothers backlot in the early '80s. Note the mix of '69 and '68 Chargers that haven't been modified yet as well as the countless patrol cars that will meet the same inevitable fate.

A Warner Brothers backlot in the early ’80s. Note the mix of ’69 and ’68 Chargers that haven’t been modified yet as well as the countless patrol cars that will meet the same inevitable fate.

Although the B-body Charger was produced from 1968 through 1970, only 1968 and 1969 models were used on the show. All had fully functional doors for safety and practical reasons, although the show’s mythology always maintained that they were welded shut to be a proper stock car. The paint used was “Hemi Orange”, Chrysler’s color code EV2, and any interior that wasn’t originally tan leather was sprayed with SEM brand’s “Saddle tan” vinyl die. Some of the cars, particularly ones built by Andre and Renaud Veluzat for Warner Brothers from the second through the fourth seasons used the same “Flame Red” (GM code 70) used on LEE3. The Veluzat-built cars were more inconsistent than others with interiors dyed varying shades of brown. Sources state that WB was charged $250 each week for rental of a Veluzat car with between $2000-$3000 to be paid upon the car’s destruction, including the oft-crashed police cars. Maintenance fell to WB’s mechanics at their expense.

As the stunt team noticed cars reducing speed due to the front end scraping the ramp before taking off, later General Lees had the front end raised. Stunt cars were fitted with 500-1000 pounds of concrete ballast or sand bags in the trunk to prevent the car from nose-diving with its heavy front engine. Despite the measures taken, landings for the General Lee were often unpredictable and typically rendered the car unusable after a single jump. Pausing or watching jumps in slow motion often show the car’s frame crumpling as it hits the ground.

Luckily, Uncle Jesse wasn't in the car for this one.

Luckily, Uncle Jesse wasn’t in the car for this one.

Engines on the Chargers varied with Chrysler’s 318 LA-series, 383 B-series, and 440 RB Magnum V8 engines all finding a home under the General Lee’s hood. The standard combination was a 440 Magnum V8 with the 3-speed Chrysler TorqueFlite A727 automatic transmission. Despite rumors and popular belief, no 426 Hemi engines and very few manual transmissions were fitted into any General Lee Chargers.

Perhaps hoping that people wouldn't notice, "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04) shows Bo shifting the General from 1st gear all the way up into what appears to be reverse before executing a bootleggers' turn. The proper thing to do with his automatic tranmission would be to shift from a drive gear into neutral. My best guess is that the showrunners just wanted a "cool shot of Bo shifting" and didn't seem to care how impractical the shift was.

Perhaps hoping that people wouldn’t notice, “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04) shows Bo shifting the General from 1st gear all the way up into what appears to be reverse before executing a bootleggers’ turn. The proper thing to do with his automatic tranmission would be to shift from a drive gear into neutral. My best guess is that the showrunners just wanted a “cool shot of Bo shifting” and didn’t seem to care how impractical the shift was.

Often the engine was reflected by the task demanded of the car. Close-up, first unit General Lees typically had 383 V8 engines. When the General was required to “ski” on either its left or right set of wheels – with the opposite wheels in the air – used the lighter weight 318 V8. The stunt drivers obviously preferred the big-block 440 V8 for jumps, so any Charger with a 440 was typically reserved for heavy stunts and long, high jumps. The difference in weight between a 318 Charger and a 440 Charger was just shy of 300 pounds (3384 lb. curb weight vs. 3682 curb weight).

"The Big Heist" (Episode 1.08) featured one of the first instances of the General "skiing" on two side tires. This was almost always done with 318 V8 Chargers due to their lighter weight.

“The Big Heist” (Episode 1.08) featured one of the first instances of the General “skiing” on two side tires. This was almost always done with 318 V8 Chargers due to their lighter weight.

Looking at the engines, specs, and performance, it becomes obvious that not all Chargers were created equal. A Charger with a 440 V8 and the 3-speed TorqueFlite transmission had an estimated top speed of 136 mph, accelerating from 0-60 in 6.2 seconds and completing a 1/4 mile drag in 14.4 seconds at a speed of 95 mph. This impressive performance was balanced out by its dismal fuel economy of approximately 8.6 miles per gallon, going no further than 164 miles from its 19 gallon tank. The 440’s optional manual transmission offered a lower top speed at 131 mph but a better 0-60 time at 5.5 seconds.

A rare sight from "Repo Men" (Episode 1.04) shows the General Lee with its windows closed as Bo and Luke try to beat their previous drag times.

A rare sight from “Repo Men” (Episode 1.04) shows the General Lee with its windows closed as Bo and Luke try to beat their previous drag times.

On the low-end, the Charger was also produced in a six-cylinder model that never made its way onto the Dukes… at least not as a General Lee. This 225 cubic inch engine had a top speed just shy of 100 mph with very low 0-60 times of 13.3 seconds with the 3-speed manual, inflated a full second with TorqueFlite. The 225 offered far better mileage with an average of 15.3 miles per gallon, but the depressing trap speeds of 19.3 sec. at 71 mph (or 19.8 sec. at 70 mph with TorqueFlite) aren’t worth the sacrifice.

The powerful and legendary 426 Hemi, on the other hand, could attain a top speed of 143 mph with a stunning 0-60 acceleration of time of 5.4 seconds. Both transmissions were equally impressive performers, although the 4-speed manual offered a slightly better drag time of 13.9 seconds at 100 mph than the TorqueFlite’s 14.2 seconds at 98 mph. Shockingly, the Hemi’s gas mileage was also more economical than the 440 with 9.3 miles per gallon on a TorqueFlite transmission and a relatively impressive 10.2 miles per gallon when equipped with the 4-speed.

The General Lees’ exhaust systems were basic, typically with a standard exhaust pipe cut just before the rear end. Thrush glasspack mufflers were fitted to many of the close-up cars, and the exhaust sound from these cars was often dubbed in to most of the scenes of the car in action.

Bo parks the General Lee in Atlanta during "Daisy's Song" (Episode 1.02).

Bo parks the General Lee in Atlanta during “Daisy’s Song” (Episode 1.02).

1969 Dodge Charger R/T

Body Style: 2-door fastback coupe

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 440 ci (7.2 L) Chrysler “RB”-series V8 with 4-barrel carburetor

Power: 375 hp (279.5 kW; 380 PS) @ 4600 rpm

Torque: 480 lb·ft (651 N·m) @ 3200 rpm

Transmission: 3-speed Chrysler TorqueFlite automatic

Wheelbase: 117 inches (2972 mm)

Length: 208.0 inches (5283 mm)

Width: 76.7 inches (1948 mm)

Height: 53.0 inches (1346 mm)

The Dukes of Hazzard was on the air for six seasons before any real explanation was given for how the Dukes got ahold of their damn near magical car. Finally, the seventh season premiere (“Happy Birthday, General Lee”) offered a look back to eight years previous when Bo was just finishing high school and Luke was freshly home from the Marine Corps. Anxious to win one of Boss Hogg’s upcoming races, Bo and Luke purchased a dilapidated black ’69 Charger from a “Capitol City” junkyard and tuned it up with a fresh engine and a fresh coat of orange paint – the only amount Cooter had enough of in his shop.

Very few mentions are made throughout the show of the General Lee’s make and model, though it is plainly obvious as a 1969 Dodge Charger. The show took care to remove the emblems, first with the sail panel and tail light panel emblems for the first few seasons, and finally all emblems were removed from 1982 onward.

Many grown up Dukes fans have attained their life goal of owning their own General Lee. To begin, you need a 1969 Dodge Charger, preferably an R/T and preferably fitted with a 318, 383, or 440 V8 engine. Next…

The paint. Chrysler’s “Hemi Orange” (EV2) is often cited as the most correct color for the car’s exterior, although GM’s “Flame Red” (70) from the Corvette also works, providing a darker hue. Other colors used by fans for replicas are “Big and Bad Orange” and the light “Vitamin C Orange”. The entire body should be painted, but the tail light area should be left black.

The wheels and tires. General Lee used American Racing’s all-aluminum “Vector” rims with ten spokes, usually 14″ x 7″ although occasionally 15″ x 7″ were used on the rear wheels. These rims were mounted on B.F. Goodrich Radial T/A P235/70R14 tires, correct for the standard Charger tire size of F70 x 14.

The push bar. You know that badass black thing on the front of the General Lee that looks like it could belong on a police car? That’s called a push bar. For the first few seasons, the General was fitted with a narrow push bar that was welded to the bumper, but this damaged the grill with each bump. From 1982 onward, the General wore a wider push bar that attached to the actual frame.

The doors. Bo and Luke chose to weld theirs shut, but… this isn’t a very good idea. Instead, feel free to emblazon them with a proud “01”, indicating that you’ll be #1 as Bo desired when he chose the number. The first two Generals and many modern replicas use vinyl decal kits, but most of the show’s examples had them painted on. Gearhead Diva offers an excellent series of measurements to be used when making the perfect General Lee replica.

The flag. This might get you into some trouble. An American flag may be a nice, politically correct way to update the car for the 21st (or even the 20th) century, but a true General Lee will wear the Army of Northern Virginia’s battle flag on its roof. Though never officially adopted by the CSA, it’s now simply known as a “Confederate flag” or “Dixie flag”. Gearhead Diva again has the correct guide for painting or placing this flag on the roof.

Duke purists would also consider adding the crossed flags from the Georgia General Lees on the panel behind the rear window to keep their General distinctive.

The interior. Dodge’s “saddle tan” is the correct color for most General Lees, although the post-1982 Generals all typically were colored a lighter tan which was often just spray-painted. A non-functional roll bar, created from foam-padded exhaust tubing, adds the “stock car” look to the General’s interior.

See? The doors do open! A crew member places the "roll bars".

See? The doors do open! A crew member places the “roll bars”.

Breaker, breaker. The constant use of CB radios on The Dukes of Hazzard is one of the things even a casual viewer remembers. The Dukes kept a Cobra 78x CB radio in their car through the sixth season, when it was replaced by a Sharp 40-channel radio. The trunk-mounted antenna was the Archer 21-908A from Radio Shack, which was also replaced in 1982 by the square-based Avanti Racer 27.

The horn. And, of course, the “Dixie” horn. Wolo currently makes a 5-trumpet electrical music horn, Model #430, that most replica owners purchase for their cars, typically from J.C. Whitney. You can even order one from Amazon now.

The story goes that two directors were eating breakfast in Covington’s town square when they heard a car drive by playing the opening twelve notes to “Dixie” as the horn. The directors chased down the owner and bought the horn from his car for $300, placing it in a General Lee for inclusion on the show. Unfortunately for them, they later learned that this type of novelty horn could be purchased much easier and much more cheaply from any auto parts store. After the first five episodes, the horn was dubbed during post-production as it would be very impractical to purchase and install 300 horns on cars that will just be crashed.

The license plates. The General Lee had Hazzard County license plates CNH-320, although Georgia plates would be the best match. Appropriately enough for a place where time seems to stand still, the General’s plates were always dated 1976.

Yeehaw!

Yeehaw!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

CMT always shows reruns, but a real fan should just pick up the series… or at least the first season.

The Quote

I live here. I choose this life. Not because I don’t know no better, but because I believe it is better, and I’m gonna fight anything or anybody that pollutes the well where I drink.

Footnotes and Sources

Helpful links about General:

  • Gearhead Diva’s guide to creating your own General Lee was invaluable.
  • Hazzard County Car Club provided some great stories about the original Georgia General Lees.  for story about some of the original GA cars and a replica made
  • The Automobile Catalog has a great page on the 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 440 Magnum TorqueFlite with in-depth specs and performance notes for it and many, many, many other cars! This is one of the few sites I visit on a daily basis.

Bourne’s Casual Leather Jacket in 1988

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Richard Chamberlain as Jason Bourne in the 1988 TV mini-series, The Bourne Identity.

Richard Chamberlain as Jason Bourne in the 1988 TV mini-series, The Bourne Identity.

Vitals

Richard Chamberlain as Jason Bourne, amnesiac ex-CIA agent

Paris, Spring 1988

Film: The Bourne Identity
Release Date: May 8, 1988
Director: Roger Young
Costume Designer: Barbara Lane

Background

As fall turns into weather here in the northern hemisphere, many men are pulling their heavy wool overcoats and dark sweaters out of storage, emulating a look that certainly worked for Matt Damon in The Bourne IdentityThe Bourne Supremacy, and The Bourne Ultimatum. Fourteen years prior to Damon taking on the Bourne role, Richard Chamberlain had played the spy in a two-part TV miniseries.

Also titled The Bourne Identity, this miniseries plays much closer to the original source material, Robert Ludlum’s 1975 novel, as the confused amnesiac Bourne follows bread crumbs to discover his past life as a decoy assassin trailing the international terrorist Carlos. Part of his investigation leads him to a Parisian boutique, where he poses as gregarious American buyer “Charlie Briggs”.

What’d He Wear?

Bourne, who spends most of the film in either a business suit or a more espionage-friendly trench coat, dons a comfortable and equally seasonable alternative when adopting the “Charlie Briggs” persona.

Bourne’s jacket is a dark brown blouson constructed of soft leather with a darker brown suede panel across the lower half from the mid-torso down. Each “V”-shaped chest yoke has a vertical seam extending down from the shoulder to the center point. The jacket’s slim collars are also constructed from the same soft suede as found on the lower half.

If his shopping habits are any indication, Bourne's crisis of identity extends to more than just his name...

If his shopping habits are any indication, Bourne’s crisis of identity extends to more than just his name…

The zip-front leather blouson has an elasticized waistband and elasticized cuffs with two buttons that close through loops. A thin dark brown leather strap runs down the entire length of each sleeve to the gathered elastic on the cuffs.

Bourne isn't as pleased with this scent as he thought he would be.

Bourne isn’t as pleased with this scent as he thought he would be.

Underneath his blouson, Bourne layers a shirt and sweater. The white shirt has button-down collars, an American style that serve his purpose of clearly identifying his nationality.

His pullover sweater is a tan cashmere long-sleeve jumper with a ribbed crew neck and ribbed waistband.

Bourne88LJ-CL-shrts

Bourne wears a pair of taupe brown slacks with single reverse pleats and belt loops. Though it can’t be seen, his belt is likely brown to match both his shoes and the rest of the outfit’s color. The trousers have on-seam side pockets and the cuffed bottoms have a medium break over his shoes.

Bourne kicks back, allowing himself a much more casual moment than Matt Damon ever would.

Bourne kicks back, allowing himself a much more casual moment than Matt Damon ever would.

Bourne’s shoes are a pair of dark brown leather single monk strap loafers with gold buckles. He nicely wears them with a pair of taupe dress socks that provide a seamless transition from trouser bottom to shoe.

Bourne allows his “Charlie Briggs” persona to breathe a little with his gold accessories. On his wrist, he wears a gold watch with a two-tone, mixed-metal bracelet that somewhat resembles a Rolex Day-Date.

Calling all watch aficionados!

Calling all watch aficionados!

More a part of his disguise than worn for actual function, “Briggs” also sports a pair of gold-framed aviators with slightly tinted brown gradient lenses. The distinctive hinge on each side may make it easier for a better-versed person to identify the manufacturer.

Bourne investigates!

Bourne investigates!

How to Get the Look

If you want to cut it as a stylish but slightly over-the-top American in Europe, Bourne’s “Charlie Briggs” attire provides a nice template to work from.

Bourne88LJ-crop

  • Dark brown soft leather zip-up blouson jacket with suede collars and lower panel, slash side pockets, and elasticized 2-button cuffs
  • White long-sleeve shirt with button-down collars and button barrel cuffs
  • Tan cashmere long-sleeve crew neck pullover sweater
  • Taupe brown single reverse-pleated slacks with on-seam side pockets and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Dark brown leather belt
  • Dark brown leather monk strap loafers with gold buckles
  • Taupe dress socks
  • Gold-framed aviator-style glasses with tinted lenses
  • Gold wristwatch with mixed-metal bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series. You may also – and probably should also – want to read the original the original Robert Ludlum novel. To be honest, I prefer the 2002 reboot to the 1988 mini-series, although it is worth mentioning that the mini-series did an excellent job of adapting its source material. The Matt Damon series, however, is an excellent study in adapting material for a new era by reinventing a plot without ditching the tone.

An Unrelated Note

My grandmother is celebrating her 93rd birthday today! This is unrelated to anything Bourne-like, but she never fails to impress as she still gets up every morning and works a full day without a complaint and still has the energy to cook a delicious dinner for herself – and often several family members – each night.


Patrick Bateman’s Gray Suit in American Psycho

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Christian Bale as Patrick Bateman in American Psycho (2000).

Christian Bale as Patrick Bateman in American Psycho (2000).

Vitals

Christian Bale as Patrick Bateman, bored investment banker and possible serial killer

New York City, Spring 1988

Film: American Psycho
Release Date: April 14, 2000
Director: Mary Harron
Costume Designer: Isis Mussenden

Background

Perceived as nothing more than a bland Wall Street banker by his friends at the start of the film, Patrick Bateman’s “mask of sanity” begins slipping away as some begin to see that there’s something darker beneath the surface.

Even his friends, never directly privy to his violent secret life, show strands of doubt after an ill-humored joke at the expense of real life serial killer’s Ed Gein’s multiple victims. Bateman tries to maintain his surface as a fashionable, successful businessman, but those not enraptured in the yuppie universe of 1987 Manhattan – notably detective Donald Kimball and poor prostitute Christie – see through the designer brands.

What’d He Wear?

Obsessed with his status as a successful (even though we never see him actually working) Wall Street VP, Patrick Bateman wears his same gray wool business suit that he wears in the office to lunch at the Yale Club with the fellas, to an afternoon assignation with his closeted gay co-worker’s fiancee, and to a more sinister evening assignation with bruised prostitute Christie and his friend Elizabeth. The film drives home the point that status is all that matters to Bateman, so why would a businessman change out of his suit when not in the office?

Bateman’s gray suit has all the trappings of ’80s men’s fashion, and it is a fine example of exactly what Bret Easton Ellis would’ve had in mind when describing his Armani-dressed antihero for the novel. The shoulders are emphasized, as is common with power suits, with extra padding and roped sleeveheads. Although Bateman clearly has an athletic physique, the loose fit of the suit coat doesn’t show it.

Doubtlessly on his way to return some video tapes.

Doubtlessly on his way to return some video tapes.

The rest of the jacket is also all ’80s: large notch lapels with low gorges rolling down to a low 2-button front, jetted hip pockets, and a ventless rear. Due to the voluminous fit of the suit, the ventless back doesn’t “hug” him even with the front closed.

APgray-CL2-SuitJktR

Other, less dated details include a welted breast pocket and 3-button cuffs.

The ’80s also marked a comeback for pleated trousers, and Bateman’s suit trousers are no exception with their double forward pleats. They have a low rise, in keeping with the times and preventing the trousers from being seen over the jacket’s low button stance. The front is fastened through a single button on a pointed waistband tab just above the straight fly.

"Ayyy!"

Ayyy!

Although they have belt loops, Bateman ups his yuppie level by wearing suspenders (aka braces) that button to the inside of his trouser waistband with brown leather hooks. Though he wears two different sets of suspenders with this suit, the most prominently seen is the striped braces worn with his white shirt and yellow tie. These suspenders are dark navy with a salmon red stripe running down the middle. They intersect at the top of his back just below the shirt’s upper yoke, where a brown leather crosspatch eases the transition into a wider single white strap down the back. The adjusters are, like most of Bateman’s accessories, gold.

As usual, Bateman wears black socks and shoes, probably the same black leather perforated cap-toe balmorals he wears in many scenes.

APgray-CL4-feet

“She’s my… cousin… She’s from… France.”

Bateman wears two different shirt and tie combinations with this suit. The first instance, for lunch at Yale Club and a roll in the sack with Courtney, finds Bateman wearing a plain white dress shirt with a standard spread collar, front placket, and double side darts on his upper back. He wears gold cluster cuff links through his double cuffs.

With the white shirt, Bateman wears a slim yellow silk necktie with a recurring maroon floral print.

Bateman takes in the dignified surroundings of the Yale Club.

Bateman takes in the dignified surroundings of the Yale Club.

Later, Bateman spends a day in the office (and a night of mayhem) wearing the same suit with a blue shirt. The shirt itself is very similar to the other with its front placket, French cuffs, and lack of a breast pocket, but it has a very distinctive contrasting white cutaway collar. Bateman’s cutaway collar is short with short points and a very wide spread. In my opinion, the cutaway collar is very unflattering, even for a man like Bateman who considers himself the perfect specimen of masculine looks.

APgray-CL7-shirt2-collar

Unlike some shirts with contrast collars, the double cuffs are the same blue color and material as the rest of the shirt. His monogram, which appears to be “P.D.B.”, is stitched on the edge of the left cuff with dark blue thread. He wears a pair of round silver cuff links with reddish-brown centers.

Aw, poor Christie. If only she would've just taken the money and run.

Aw, poor Christie. If only she would’ve just taken the money and run.

His tie, which he abandons for his “date” with Elizabeth and Christie, is another busy printed silk tie with a charcoal ground and a series of orange and cream boxes connected by abstract double cream lines.

A somewhat Brosnan-esque tie.

A somewhat Brosnan-esque tie.

Bateman is very protective of his Rolex DateJust wristwatch. Anyone who’s seen Die Hard knows that ’80s businessmen took Rolexes very seriously (isn’t that right, Ellis?), and Bateman’s Rolex would have been the ultimate status symbol for him. His particular DateJust is in a 36mm two-tone “Rolesor” yellow gold and stainless steel  case on a two-tone “Jubilee” bracelet.

Note the monogrammed cuff. Is it P.D.B.? I don't think we ever see his middle name...

Note the monogrammed cuff. Is it P.D.B.? I don’t think we ever see his middle name…

Finally, Bateman dons a pair of black leather gloves when he heads into the Yale Club’s bathroom for his… confrontation with Luis Carruthers.

Poor Luis.

Poor Luis. In so many ways, poor Luis.

Go Big or Go Home

Not knowing much about him otherwise, Bateman’s monologue about Whitney Houston and his deep admiration for her music could lead one to assume he is quite a romantic person:

Bateman: Did you know that Whitney Houston’s debut LP, called simply Whitney Houston, had 4 number one singles on it? Did you know that, Christie?
Elizabeth: (laughing) You actually listen to Whitney Houston? You own a Whitney Houston CD? More than one?
Bateman: (ignoring her) It’s hard to choose a favorite among so many great tracks, but “The Greatest Love of All” is one of the best, most powerful songs ever written about self-preservation, dignity. Its universal message crosses all boundaries and instills one with the hope that it’s not too late to better ourselves. Since, Elizabeth, it’s impossible in this world we live in to empathize with others, we can always empathize with ourselves. It’s an important message, crucial really. And it’s beautifully stated on the album.

All while “The Greatest Love of All” plays in the background, although it’s an instrumental version by the London Philharmonic Orchestra… Whitney likely didn’t want to be associated with the scene’s conclusion which leads to Bateman chasing down a hooker who kicked him in the face, screaming, “Not the fucking face, you piece of bitch trash!” before dropping a chainsaw onto her from several stories higher.

Alas, any woman who crosses Bateman’s path is typically doomed to either indifference or a far more grisly fate. The women in his social circle seem to be safe, including his (now ex) girlfriend Evelyn and his mistress, the constantly drugged Courtney Rawlinson. After a quick nooner at Courtney’s, she tries to bond with him through her haze of lithium.

Courtney: Listen Patrick, can we talk?
Bateman: You look… marvelous. There’s nothing to say.

Although the fact that he’s looking in the mirror as he says so implies that he’s talking to himself more than he’s talking to her. She wistfully asks, “Will you call me before Easter?” to which the aloof Bateman simply replies, “Maybe.”

His lack of romance also extends to his macabre sense of humor, which even his surface-level friends don’t find very amusing.

Bateman: Do you know what Ed Gein said about women?
Van Patten: Ed Gein? The maitre ‘d at Canal Bar?
Bateman: No, serial killer, Wisconsin, the ’50s.
McDermott: So what did he say?
Bateman: “When I see a pretty girl walking down the street, I think two things. One part wants me to take her out, talk to her, be real nice and sweet and treat her right.”
Van Patten: And what did the other part think?
Bateman: “What her head would look like on a stick… “

Bateman is the only one who gets much satisfaction from the joke, but his guffaws are enough for the whole group.

How to Get the Look

Bateman’s suit alone is clearly a relic of the ’80s “power suit” era, but when he spruces it up with a contrast collar shirt and striped braces, you know you’re in for a glorious yuppie adventure.

APgray-crop

  • Gray wool business suit, with:
    • Single-breasted jacket with low-gorge notch lapels, low 2-button front, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless rear
    • Double forward-pleated low rise trousers with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, and cuffed bottoms/turn-ups
  • Light blue dress shirt with a white cutaway contrast collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Charcoal silk printed tie with orange-and-cream boxes connected by thin cream lines
  • Silver round cuff links
  • Navy and red striped suspenders with brown leather tabs and gold adjusters
  • Black leather perforated cap-toe balmorals
  • Black dress socks
  • White Perry Ellis underwear briefs
  • Black leather gloves
  • Rolex DateJust in stainless 36mm case with two-tone yellow gold and stainless “Jubilee” bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

Footnotes

Anyone have idea what wine Bateman drugs for Elizabeth and Christie?

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Spy Game: Redford’s Brown Leather Jacket in Beirut

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Robert Redford as Nathan Muir in Spy Game (2001).

Robert Redford as Nathan Muir in Spy Game (2001).

Vitals

Robert Redford as Nathan Muir, shrewd CIA case officer

Beirut, Summer 1985

Film: Spy Game
Release Date: November 21, 2001
Director: Tony Scott
Costume Designer: Louise Frogley
Redford’s Costumer: David Page

Background

Robert Redford finally teamed up with his spiritual successor Brad Pitt in the 2001 action hit Spy Game, directed by Tony Scott. Redford played Nathan D. Muir, the veteran CIA operative who took rookie Tom Bishop (Pitt) under his wing. Muir’s cynicism eventually clashes with Bishop’s idealism after nearly ten years on the job, and the two split after a morally disastrous mission in Beirut during the Lebanese Civil War.

The conflict in question that caused the rift in Muir and Bishop’s relationship is known as The War of the Camps (حرب المخيمات), roughly setting the action depicted to summer 1985. Bishop has been undercover in the area as a photojournalist named “Terry”, although his romance with the mysterious Elizabeth Hadley has been more than just a cover. When Muir arrives, he sees the danger in Bishop’s budding relationship, and his ultimate solution to meet the mission’s ultimate goal drives the two men apart.

In an interesting case of life reflecting art, the film had to move its production from Israel due to the escalation of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in the fall of 2000, and the “Beirut” scenes were instead filmed in Morocco.

What’d He Wear?

Muir arrives in Beirut wearing a dark brown leather jacket constructed of a rugged cowhide that looks as well-traveled as Muir himself. Although likely vintage (or at least made to look so), it is classically styled with a comfortable fit and large shirt-style collar. It closes down the front with a dark brass zipper, and the cuffs are plain with no buttons, zips, snaps, or other frills.

SPY GAME

The taciturn Muir.

Muir’s leather jacket is very distinctive, particularly with the front yokes. Both sides have stitching extending horizontally from above the armpit before curving halfway across the jacket and falling vertically down each front panel of the jacket. In addition to the yoke, the left front panel of the jacket has a welted breast pocket that closes with a zipper. The jacket also has two slanted hand pockets above the waist line.

SPY GAME

A photo of Redford and Pitt on set before Pitt’s character leaves Beirut for another mission. Note that they are dressed differently here; Muir’s clothing is much more military-inspired with his khaki service shirt and aviator sunglasses.

The back of the jacket is also distinctive with its self-belt, cinched rear waistband, and thin adjustable leather straps on each side that close with a small steel buckle.

SPY GAME

Muir’s jacket is seen primarily in the Beirut scenes, but he is also briefly seen wearing it while training Bishop in Berlin in 1976, backing the thought that his rugged jacket has traveled with him for at least nine years.

SPY GAME

Muir and Bishop in Berlin.

America Suits has a replica available for around $130, but the site offers no photos or testimonials about the jacket in addition to the scanty description, so I can’t testify as to whether or not it’s an accurate replica.

Muir layers two shirts under the jacket. His base layer is a heathered gray cotton short-sleeve t-shirt, worn as an undershirt. Over the t-shirt, he wears a tan cotton utility shirt that buttons down a front placket.

SPY GAME

Sometimes, it’s more efficient to just wear a pair of glasses.

Muir’s utility shirt has a slim spread collar and large patch pockets on the chest that close with a buttoning flap. Edge stitching is present throughout the shirt from the collars and the pocket flaps to the placket and the rounded button cuffs.

Muir tucks both shirts into a pair of olive gray double reverse-pleated trousers with a medium rise. The trousers have on-seam side pockets and two jetted rear pockets that each close through a dark brown button. The bottoms are plain-hemmed with a short break to ease his movements as he darts in and out of destroyed buildings on his way to breakfast.

SPY GAME

Another behind-the-scenes shot of Pitt and Redford, likely discussing what it’s like to be a badass.

Distressed leather is clearly the basis of all of Muir’s accessories. His belt is thick well-worn brown leather with a large rectangular dulled brass clasp.

SPY GAME

The fellas have a laugh while spying on dangerous terrorists.

The low boots he wears in Beirut are also – you guessed it – distressed brown leather. Muir’s boots have a sueded finish, tan laces, and light brown leather soles. He wears them with a pair of dark brown socks.

SPY GAME

Not a place to wear your finest Oxfords, as a seasoned traveled like Muir would know.

Muir accessorizes more than some of the BAMFs we see on the blog, but it’s all mostly functional. The watch on his right wrist is a Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 with a 41 mm stainless case, white dial, and stainless link bracelet.

SPY GAME

As a Victorinox watch wearer myself, BAMF Style approves this placement.

The one mostly decorative accessory of Muir’s is the silver finger on his right ring finger that Redford explained to the Hollywood Reporter last year:

It’s a very small silver ring that was given to me by Hopi Indians in 1966… Every film I have done since 1968, I’ve had that ring on my right-hand ring finger.

We’ve noticed.

SPY GAME

This shot offers one of the best views of Redford’s famous silver ring.

On the opposite hand, Muir wears a gold wedding ring, presumably to match his cover as a frice married man.

SPY GAME

Redford also sports a pair of stylish Oliver Peoples “Riley” brown tortoiseshell eyeglasses throughout the film. Although Oliver Peoples wasn’t founded until 1986, the frames certainly look like something a classic spy like Muir would wear. It also makes sense that OP would make an appearance since Brad Pitt is known to be a big fan of the brand himself.

Go Big or Go Home

Muir and Bishop bantering and dodging bullets as they head to breakfast among the rubble is very evocative of a similar scene more than thirty years earlier when Newman and Redford did the same thing in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (albeit, Butch and the Kid were trying to escape breakfast).

SPY GAME

Bishop tries to talk Muir into going to Australia- nope, wrong film. Bishop tries to talk Muir into going for migas.

Once they get there, Bishop impresses his mentor with the gift of a flask, full of Scotch. Almost makes me wish I was someone’s mentor…

Bishop: Happy Birthday, Nathan. Did you know Langley has seven different birth dates for you?
Muir: And they’re all wrong.
Bishop: I know. Believe me, it wasn’t easy. KGB, Mossad, also wrong. Fortunately, I was well trained.

How to Get the Look

Going into hostile territory? You’ll want to be prepared with a badass, functional look.SpyMuirLthr-crop

  • Dark brown cowhide leather jacket with collar, brass zip front, curved front yokes, zip welted breast pocket, slanted hand pockets, belted rear, buckle side adjusters, and plain cuffs
  • Tan cotton utility shirt with spread collar, front placket, flapped button-down patch pockets, and rounded button cuffs
  • Heathered gray cotton short-sleeve crew neck t-shirt
  • Olive gray double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, button-through jetted rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Thick brown leather belt with large dulled brass buckle
  • Brown sueded leather 5-eyelet low boots with tan laces and light brown leather soles
  • Dark brown socks
  • Victorinox Swiss Army Officer’s 1884 wristwatch with stainless 41mm case, white dial, and stainless link bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Silver Hopi Indian ring with black imprint, worn on right ring finger
  • Gold wedding band, worn on left ring finger
  • Oliver Peoples “Riley” tortoiseshell-framed eyeglasses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Seventy-four casualties, an apartment block leveled, one dead terrorist? Yeah, happy.


Scarface: Tony’s Tan Suit and Cadillac

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Al Pacino stands next to a bright '63 Caddy convertible as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Al Pacino stands next to a bright ’63 Caddy convertible as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Vitals

Al Pacino as Tony Montana, hotheaded Cuban-American cocaine dealer

Miami, August 1981

Film: Scarface
Release Date: December 9, 1983
Director: Brian De Palma
Costume Designer: Patricia Norris

Background

BAMF Style is continuing Car Week with the second grand American convertible from the automotive golden era – the 1963 Cadillac Series 62 owned by Tony Montana in 1983’s Scarface. Ironically, we first see this Caddy while Tony is actually shopping for a different luxury car, the silver 1979 Porsche 928 4.5L that he adds to his growing collection.

The ’63 Caddy convertible is clearly Tony’s favorite, though, driving it to show off his status even though Elvira pointedly tells him:

It looks like somebody’s nightmare.

What’d He Wear?

Tony Montana wears this lightweight tan suit twice in the film, once when car shopping with Manny and Elvira and later during his arrest. It’s very much an ’80s-styled suit with its low-gorge notch lapels, low 2-button front, and padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads. All buttons are tan plastic to match the suit itself.

SCARFACE

The salesman knows he has no place in the Tony vs. Manny battle for chest hair exposure supremacy.

The jacket also has 3-button cuffs, long double rear vents, straight flapped hip pockets, and a welted breast pocket for Tony’s display handkerchiefs. When he goes car shopping, he wears a cream-colored silk handkerchief in the pocket. The red handkerchief he wears during his arrest perfectly matches his red silk shirt worn for the occasion.

The ’80s-ness of it all extends to his large-fitting low rise suit trousers which have a flat front and plenty of room throughout the hips. The side pockets are slanted, and there is a jetted pocket on the right rear. The slightly flared bottoms are plain-hemmed with a full break.

SCARFACE

Elvira is not impressed.

Tony wears a thin brown leather belt with a small gold squared claw-style buckle through the trousers’ slim belt loops.

With both outfits, Tony wears a pair of tan sueded leather summer shoes with raised heels and pointed cap toes. His socks also appear to be tan or cream, although they’re rarely seen under the full break of the trouser legs.

SCARFACE

Tony swaggers around his new acquisition… both of them.

The first shirt worn with this suit – in the car shopping scene – is a baggy soft brown shirt with a large collar, breast pocket, and button cuffs. Tony ignores the top few dark brown plastic buttons down the plain front, as per his usual style.

SCARFACE

*Beep Beep*

He’s even less modest with his second shirt, an even baggier red silk shirt that also has a plain button-down front and button cuffs. It may be the same shirt he wears with his white double-breasted suit in Colombia. Either way, he chooses to accentuate it with a matching red silk handkerchief in his jacket breast pocket. This flashier shirt makes the first look seem very understated by comparison.

SCARFACE

Nothing about this look says “subtle”.

Two-Gun Tony is also carrying when he’s busted. He keeps a snubnose .38-caliber Smith & Wesson Model 36 “Chief’s Special” revolver in a brown leather shoulder holster under his left arm. He sticks his primary sidearm, a .32-caliber Beretta Cheetah 81, in the back of his waistband. Evidently, Tony is allowed to keep his firearms after he is arrested (!) since he later has them both on in his lawyer’s office – more properly carrying the Beretta in an IWB for that scene.

SCARFACE

Spoiler alert: the drug dealer gets arrested at one point.

Tony wears one of his many Omega La Magique gold wristwatches with this suit. A flashy, appearance-driven criminal like Tony would be sure to pick up the latest fashionable watch, and the La Magique was first introduced in 1981, positioned as one of the thinnest watches of the era. This particular watch has a gold rectangular case and a very small black round dial that would require 20/20 vision to read properly.

Although we know he has a few different La Magique watches with differently colored dials to match his various suits and shirts, he only wears the black-dialed model with this suit.

Although we know he has a few different La Magique watches with differently colored dials to match his various suits and shirts, he only wears the black-dialed model with this suit.

On his right wrist, he wears his usual silver chain link bracelet. His right hand is also decked out with both of his big gold rings; the 3rd finger ring has a diamond and the pinky ring has a square-cut ruby. Both of Tony’s necklaces – the larger Cuban-style chain and the slimmer, lower-hanging rope necklace – are yellow gold.

SCARFACE

How welcoming!

Tony keeps his reputation as a sporty ’80s guy with a pair of black acetate teardrop-framed sport aviators with amber gradient lenses. zeroUV offers a similar pair for only $9.99.

How to Get the Look

Buying a new car anytime soon? Show the salesman you mean business by wearing your finest Miami drug kingpin suit, and don’t be afraid to dress it up with extensive and expensive jewelry.

Sc83tan-crop

  • Tan lightweight suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted suit jacket with notch lapels, low 2-button stance, welted breast pocket, flapped straight hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double rear vents
    • Low rise flat front suit trousers with thin belt loops, slanted side pockets, jetted right rear pocket, and plain-hemmed flared bottoms
  • Brown soft button-down shirt with large collar, breast pocket, plain front, and button cuffs
  • Tan sueded leather cap-toed summer shoes
  • Brown slim leather belt with small gold squared claw-shaped buckle
  • Omega La Magique wristwatch on left wrist with gold expanding bracelet, gold rectangular case, and round red dial
  • Stainless link bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Gold ring with diamond, worn on right ring finger
  • Gold ring with square-cut ruby, worn on right pinky
  • Black acetate teardrop-framed sport aviators with amber gradient lenses
  • Two yellow gold necklaces

Don’t forget the cream silk display handkerchief!

The Car

… I mean, it’s got a few years, but it’s a cream puff.

Tony obviously has a soft spot for his butter yellow 1963 Cadillac Series 62 convertible. GM had been using the “Series 62″ appellation since 1940 when it was the lowest level offered by Cadillac. The torpedo-styled cars – with a Body by Fisher – quickly gained attention, and the Series 62 remained a sleek and popular model for nearly 25 years.

Poor Tony overshoots the "opulence" part of the American dream a bit much...

Poor Tony overshoots the “opulence” part of the American dream a bit much…

After a series of updates and facelifts through the ’40s and ’50s, Cadillac rolled out its final generation of the C-platform Series 62 with a design from GM’s chief designer Bill Mitchell in 1961. Each year saw slight changes both internally and externally; the 1963 model – as driven in Scarface – featured lower profile tailfins (by era standards) to create a longer, bolder look. Cadillac emphasized an even more luxurious ride for its 1963 model, insulating the floor and firewall to keep noise from the revamped and lighter weight 390 cubic inch V8 out of the inner compartment.

1964 was the final year of the Cadillac Series 62 before the model was renamed the Calais. The engine was expanded to 429 cubic inches, boosting horsepower to 340. No convertibles were offered in ’64, and sales bottomed out at 35,079… an 18-year low and a huge dip from the car’s apex of popularity in 1956.

Oh... my.

Oh… my.

1963 Cadillac Series 62

Body Style: 2-door convertible

Layout: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (RWD)

Engine: 390 cubic inch (6.4 L) Cadillac OHV V8 with Rochester 4-barrel carburetor

Power: 325 hp (242 kW; 329 PS) @ XX rpm

Torque: 430 lb·ft (580 N·m) @ XX rpm

Transmission: 4-speed GM Hydra-Matic automatic

Wheelbase: 129.5 inches (3289 mm)

Length: 223 inches (5664 mm)

Width: 79.7 inches (2024 mm)

Height: 56.6 inches (1438 mm)

Despite its powerful Cadillac V8 under the hood, it would take a lot more than 325 horsepower to push the 4,544-pound car into high speeds. Acceleration was low, taking more than 10 seconds to hit 60 mph with a dismal 17.6 second quarter mile drag time. But a car like this isn’t driven for performance… it’s driven for showing off. Sounds about right for Tony Montana, doesn’t it?

And show off he does. Not only does the outside of the car attract attention with its bright yellow paint job, but the custom interior’s tiger-print upholstery is truly… unique.

If you want your own and size isn’t important to you, a 1:24 die-cast model replica is available for sale (and it even includes a little Tony Montana!) If die-cast metal isn’t your thing and you want something “cuter”, there’s always a toy like this.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the deluxe DVD gift set… which also comes with a copy of the original Scarface from 1932!

The Quote

You wanna play that way with me, I play with you.


Tony Montana’s Chalkstripe Showdown Suit in Scarface

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Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983).

Vitals

Al Pacino as Tony Montana, impulsive and hotheaded cocaine kingpin

New York City to Miami, Fall 1983

Film: Scarface
Release Date: December 9, 1983
Director: Brian De Palma
Costume Designer: Patricia Norris
Tailor: Tommy Velasco

Background

Even if you’re one of the 0.5% of the population who hasn’t seen Scarface, you’ve seen this suit and you know this scene. You’ve seen it on t-shirts, dorm room posters, memes, and anywhere that pop culture will allow it. The scene has become legendary over the last three decades as one of the greatest movie gunfights in history for many reasons: an unhinged Al Pacino who may or may not have been pretending to be high, an endless mob of cartel gunmen each meeting their fate at the end of his AR-15, and – of course:

Say hello to my little friend!

What’d He Wear?

After sporting a variety of white suits, bold silks, and pastels through his rise to power over the course of the movie, Tony Montana is surprisingly subtle in a dark chalkstripe three-piece suit when he goes out the proverbial blaze of glory. Of course, he’s just returned from New York City after an aborted hit with the late Alberto (an always excellent Mark Margolis), so he was wisely outfitted in a more conservative business suit to fit in among the Gordon Gekko crowd of ’80s Manhattan.

Tony’s suit is dark navy wool with a chalkstripe that alternates between a thick double stripe and a thin single stripe. It was custom-made for Pacino by Paramount Studios tailor Tommy Velasco and was featured a few years ago on The Golden Closet.

Tony and his mountains of yeyo.

Tony and his mountains of yeyo.

The single-breasted suit jacket has a 2-button front that Tony always wears open, as he tends to do with his single-breasted jackets. It has peak lapels with a buttonhole on the left lapel. Tony wears a white silk pocket square poking out of his welted breast pocket. The suitcoat also has jetted rear-slanting hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double side vents.

Pulling back a bit, we get a better look at Tony's jacket and vest. Inset photo: Pacino's actual suit, as featured at The Golden Closet.

Pulling back a bit, we get a better look at Tony’s jacket and vest. Inset photo: Pacino’s actual suit, as featured at The Golden Closet.

Tony’s suit has a matching single-breasted vest (waistcoat) that he tends to wear buttoned except while taking off his tie during a less cocaine-fueled moment in his office. It closes down the front with six buttons, with the lowest button left open over the notched bottom. The back of the vest is lined in dark silk – possibly black or midnight blue – with an adjustable strap.

Tony briefly opts for a Dillinger-esque look around the office. Inset production photo shows us the extremely long tie... I know I took issue with the short pink tie in Diamonds are Forever, but this is no healthy alternative either.

Tony briefly opts for a Dillinger-esque look around the office. Inset production photo shows us the extremely long tie… I know I took issue with the short pink tie in Diamonds are Forever, but this is no healthy alternative either.

Tony’s flat front suit trousers have a medium rise with side pockets. The bottoms are cuffed with a full break. He wears a thin brown leather belt with a small gold square single-claw buckle.

Tony’s white dress shirt doesn’t stay white for long once the bullets start flying. It has a slim collar that he wears unbuttoned – even with a tie – and French cuffs fastened by a set of flat gold rectangular links.

Tony slips on a tie for business time.

Tony slips on a tie for business time.

It’s interesting to note – although likely just a coincidence – that Tony’s outfit consists primarily of red, white, and blue. Not only are these the colors of his adopted United States, but they also appear on the Cuban flag. In fact, one could argue that the blue and white stripes on the flag are reflected in Tony’s blue chalkstripe suit… but that’s a bit of a stretch. (The blood and the cocaine also add extra splashes of red and white to his suit, so that’s fun.)

The red in Tony’s outfit comes from his slim silk patterned tie that is quickly abandoned after he returns to his Miami headquarters. The tie is comprised of many gold spots with a navy square center, all on a red ground. The tie is worn long, with the blade extending well past the waistband.

Another garment missing for the famous final showdown is a navy wool single-breasted overcoat worn in New York. Not much of the coat is seen, but it has padded shoulders, notch lapels, and a long rear vent.

Tony sports an overcoat in New York City, but he doesn't need it when he ventures back to the warmer Miami climate. Not sure where I found the autographed inset photo; that'd been floating around on my computer for more than ten years so I can't properly source it.

Tony sports an overcoat in New York City, but he doesn’t need it when he ventures back to the warmer Miami climate. Not sure where I found the autographed inset photo; that’d been floating around on my computer for more than ten years so I can’t properly source it.

Tony wears a pair of black leather slip-on ankle boots with raised heels that are fittingly known as “Cuban boots”, given Tony’s heritage. He wears them with a pair of black dress socks.

If anyone should be wearing Cuban boots...

If anyone should be wearing Cuban boots…

Tony wears both of his handguns in holsters, removing both before the final gunfight actually begins. He wears his Beretta Cheetah 81 in an IWB at the small of his back, and he carries the Smith & Wesson Model 36 snubnose .38 Special – likely the same one that Gina picks up – under his left arm in a brown leather shoulder holster.

Unaware that he's minutes away from a major gunfight, Tony actually removes both of his holsters.

Unaware that he’s minutes away from a major gunfight, Tony actually removes both of his holsters.

With this more conservative suit, Tony also slims down his usually expansive array of jewelry and accessories. Around his neck, he only wears a thick gold link necklace rather than his usual two.

He still wears the gold Omega La Magique watch – with a small black dial – on his left wrist, but he now appears to be wearing no bracelet on his right wrist.

From Tony Montana's AR-15 to James Bond's trusty Walther, Omega has always been the watch of choice for firearm-proficient film protagonists.

From Tony Montana’s AR-15 to James Bond’s trusty Walther, Omega has always been the watch of choice for firearm-proficient film protagonists.

For most of his “successful” career, Tony can be seen wearing two rings on his right hand. In the preceding scene meeting with Sosa and this final sequence, he is down to wearing just the large gold diamond ring on his third finger.

Tony "comforting" Gina gives us another good look at his big diamond ring and the chalkstripes of his suiting.

Tony “comforting” Gina gives us another good look at his big diamond ring and the chalkstripes of his suiting.

How to Get the Look

Tony Montana’s death suit is an interesting interpretation of what an ’80s drug kingpin would wear if plucked from his Miami Vice world and dropped somewhere between Hill Street Blues and Wall Street.

Scar83end-crop

  • Navy blue alternating-chalkstripe wool custom-tailored suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with peak lapels, welted breast pocket, rear-slanted jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and double rear vents
    • Single-breasted 6-button vest with notched bottom and lower welt pockets
    • Flat front medium-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffed bottoms
  • White dress shirt with slim collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Red silk spot-patterned necktie
  • Gold flat rectangle cuff links
  • Black leather slip-on “Cuban boot” ankle boots with raised heels
  • Black dress socks
  • Thin brown leather belt with square gold single-claw buckle
  • Navy blue wool single-breasted overcoat with notch lapels, padded shoulders, and long single rear vent
  • Omega La Magique wristwatch on left wrist with gold expanding bracelet, gold rectangular case, and round black dial
  • Gold ring with diamond, worn on right ring finger
  • Yellow gold link chain necklace

By the time he gets back to Miami and is introducing Sosa’s henchmen to his “little friend”, Tony’s already ditched his tie and overcoat. The white silk pocket square stays in his breast pocket, though it certainly isn’t white by the end of the battle.

The Gun

Ah, Tony’s “little friend”… the Colt AR-15 used by Al Pacino has become one of the most infamous firearms in cinematic history. He uses it to great effect during the gun battle, but alas, even when fitted with a “fake” M203 grenade launcher, it can only do so much against a team of killers and one particularly sneaky shotgun-wielding hitman.

If you haven't seen this image before, where have you been for the last 33 years?

If you haven’t seen this image before, where have you been for the last 33 years?

The AR-15 was first introduced by ArmaLite in 1959 as a battle rifle for the U.S. military. It would eventually be redesigned and adopted as various incarnations of the M16 rifle, but it was a civilian market Colt AR-15 – first marketed as a semi-automatic option in 1963 – that found its way into Tony Montana’s arsenal. According to IMFDB and The Golden Closet:

Originally an M16A1 was used with the grenade launcher and the AR-15 was substituted after cinematographer John Alonzo determined that the AR-15’s firing sequence could be timed to synchronize with the Arriflex cameras, which would result in elongating the duration of muzzle flashes seen on film.

Tony’s AR-15 would’ve likely been illegally modified to fire fully automatic with items such as a “Drop In Auto Sear” or “lightning-link”. Tony cycles through two jungle-taped STANAG magazines, each containing 30 rounds of 5.56×45 mm NATO ammunition. Of course, it’s not just rifle rounds that give Tony his edge against the assassins.

Check out those jungle-taped mags. Tony was obviously ready for something like this.

Check out those jungle-taped mags. Tony was obviously ready for something like this.

The Golden Closet currently features the “fake” 39mm smoothbore grenade launcher that was fixed to Tony’s AR-15 to resemble the standard M203 under-barrel grenade launcher used by the U.S. military. In reality, the M203 fires a single 40mm grenade. Eventually, the movie industry adopted the Cobray CM203 flare launcher as a stand-in for the M203 but for earlier ’80s action flicks like Scarface and Predator produced before the CM203 was developed, the “fake” M203 was the best option. (Fun fact: The exact same fake M203 prop that was used in Scarface would later by used by Arnold Schwarzenegger as Dutch in Predator.)

Tony slips a grenade into his fake M203 launcher.

Tony slips a grenade into his fake M203 launcher.

Check out IMFDB for a photo of the actual AR-15 with jungle-taped magazines and grenade launcher that was used in Scarface!

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the deluxe DVD gift set… which also comes with a copy of the original Scarface from 1932!

The Quote

You wanna fuck with me? You fucking with the best! You wanna fuck with me? Okay. You little cockroaches… come on. You wanna play games? Okay, I play with you… come on. Okay. You wanna play rough? Okay. Say hello to my little friend!

Footnote

A photo of Pacino wearing this suit is used for the film’s now iconic poster but with the colors inverted to create the effect of a white suit and black shirt. He does wear a white three-piece suit and black shirt earlier in the film, but promo photography definitely divulge that the poster was used from photos of this dark striped finale suit.

This was my Halloween costume in 2010! Keep this in mind if you’re looking for a costume 11 months from now.


Hans Gruber in Die Hard

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Hans Gruber (Alan Rickman) aims John McClane's own Beretta at him in a production still from Die Hard (1988).

Hans Gruber (Alan Rickman) aims John McClane’s own Beretta at him in a production still from Die Hard (1988).

Vitals

Alan Rickman as Hans Gruber, shrewd German terrorist leader and self-described “excellent thief”

Los Angeles, Christmas 1988

Film: Die Hard
Release Date: July 15, 1988
Director: John McTiernan
Costume Designer: Marilyn Vance

Background

Like surprisingly many others, Die Hard is my favorite Christmas movie and no holiday season – no matter how hectic or bleak – is complete without a viewing of what is arguably the greatest action movie ever made.

For the first BAMF Style holiday season in 2012, I broke down the rugged (and eventually very sparse) style of Bruce Willis’ John McClane, but it feels like the time has come to look at what the film’s fashion-driven antagonist wore as he led his European gunslingers into Nakatomi Plaza on Christmas Eve 1988.

Mr. Takagi, I could talk about industrialization and men’s fashion all day, but I’m afraid work must intrude…

What’d He Wear?

Nice suit. John Phillips, London. I have two myself. Rumor has it Arafat buys his there.

Obviously, Hans Gruber knows a thing about clothes as he takes the time to compliment the Nakatomi Corporation’s soon-to-be martyr’s suit. Whether or not the dark suit sported by Hans himself is one of his two from the prestigious (but ultimately fictional) John Phillips.

Hans Gruber’s dark charcoal suit is very contemporary to its 1980s setting, not surprising for a man so interested in fashion and image. The jacket is cut short with a double-breasted 4-on-2 button stance.

Hans meets his new buddies at the Nakatomi Corporation!

Hans meets his new buddies at the Nakatomi Corporation!

Hans’ combination of notch lapels and a double-breasted front was most popular during the decade, although it also popped up a bit during the ’60s. When he makes his first appearance on screen, Hans wears his lapels flipped up under his raincoat to create a more menacing look before he enters “businessman” mode when taking over the building. Each lapel has a buttonhole.

The jacket also has a welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, a ventless back, and padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads. All in all, very befitting for a flashy ’80s terrorist’s power suit.

Much less is seen of the trousers, especially as Hans spends so much time behind a desk once he has taken control. They have side pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms with a full break. He wears them with a black leather belt with a gold single-claw buckle.

Hans wears a pale blue poplin dress shirt. The collar is slim with moderate spread, and the rounded cuffs close with a button. The front has a placket and a pointed-bottom pocket over the left breast.

Hans really wanted that new iPhone for Christmas, but Ma and Pa Gruber shafted him with a secondhand Kenwood walkie-talkie. Maybe next year...

Hans really wanted that new iPhone for Christmas, but Ma and Pa Gruber shafted him with a secondhand Kenwood walkie-talkie. Maybe next year…

Just because he’s killing and stealing on Christmas Eve doesn’t mean Hans Gruber isn’t one to inject some holiday fun into his attire! Hans wears a maroon silk necktie, tied in a four-in-hand knot.

Unlike his nemesis, Hans manages to keep his feet covered throughout the evening. He wears a pair of black leather cap-toe bluchers and black dress socks.

Stubbing out one of the Gauloises he bummed from McClane...

Stubbing out one of the Gauloises he bummed from McClane…

For his on-screen introduction, Hans Gruber wears the trope-worthy Badass Longcoat, here in the form of a taupe raincoat. The coat is worn open with a loose belt hooked through a loop on each side. Each lapel has a buttonhole through it, and the jacket’s cuffs close through a single button tab.

In lieu of a scarf, Hans just flips up his suit lapels. Win win.

In lieu of a scarf, Hans just flips up his suit lapels. Win win.

Finally, Hans’ sole visible accessory is a gold tank watch fastened to his left wrist on a black alligator strap.

Still smarting over not getting that iPhone...

Still smarting over not getting that iPhone…

How to Get the Look

If not for his nefarious aims, Hans Gruber would have certainly looked the part of a very welcome guest at a company Christmas party in the ’80s!

DHHG-crop

  • Charcoal tailored “power suit”, consisting of:
    • Double-breasted 4×2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Pale blue poplin dress shirt with slim collar, breast pocket, front placket, and rounded button cuffs
  • Maroon silk tie
  • Black leather belt with square gold single-claw buckle
  • Black leather cap-toe bluchers
  • Black dress socks
  • Taupe belted raincoat with 1-button tab cuffs and long single rear vent
  • Gold tank watch on black alligator leather strap

The Gun

For his takeover of Nakatomi Plaza, Hans Gruber’s sidearm is a Heckler & Koch P7M13 semi-automatic pistol, finished in hard chrome and chambered in 9×19 mm Parabellum. Although Hans and his gang are clearly involved in criminal activity without much regard for noise, he is seen removing a suppressor (which matches the pistol’s chrome finish) when he first draws it on Mr. Takagi. According to IMFDB, this indicates that “it’s not a P7M13SD because there is no threaded barrel to use a suppressor”

Hans blows his job interview almost immediately.

Hans blows his job interview almost immediately.

Heckler & Koch GmbH first revealed its PSP in 1976, aimed at the police market. Production began on the P7 three years later, and the weapon was soon adopted by the German Army’s special forces and the GSG 9 counter-terrorism unit. In addition to its distinguished look and innovative cocking-lever grip, the P7 series utilizes a unique gas-delayed blowback locking system which utilizes each ignited cartridge’s gas pressures.

Hans should consider finding a better place to store his weapon.

Hans should consider finding a better place to store his weapon.

The first variant of the P7 was the P7M8 in the early 1980s, followed quickly by the P7M13 in 1982 which could carry 13-round magazines of 9 mm ammunition. With its double-stack magazine, the P7M13 was slightly larger at 30 ounces with an overall length of 6.9 inches, sharing the P7M8’s barrel length of 4.1 inches.

PEW PEW!

Supposedly Alan Rickman had trouble keeping his eyes open when exposed to the multiple instances of muzzle flash in the film, but this shows that he could keep it together when needed!

The script initially called for a Walther:

Hans slowly takes out his Walther and his silencer.

…which still found use in the film in the form of the menacing Karl’s Walther PPK. Instead, Hans was armed with the less familiar (and thus more exotic) but equally German Heckler & Koch P7M13.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Who said we were terrorists?

Footnote

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you and yours!

DHHG-footnote


Bond’s Gun Club Check in The Living Daylights

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Timothy Dalton as James Bond in The Living Daylights (1987).

Timothy Dalton as James Bond in The Living Daylights (1987).

Vitals

Timothy Dalton as James Bond, British government agent

Oxfordshire, England, Fall 1986

Film: The Living Daylights
Release Date: June 27, 1987
Director: John Glen
Costume Designer: Emma Porteous
Costume Supervisor: Tiny Nicholls

Background

For the 00-7th of March, I’m finally getting around to my first post celebrating Timothy Dalton’s brief tenure as James Bond. After a few tumultuous years for the Bond franchise which saw Roger Moore going head to head with Sean Connery’s Never Say Never Again, Pierce Brosnan briefly signed to take over the role before Remington Steele came calling back, and a geriatric Roger Moore going head to head with Grace Jones in A View to a Kill, the franchise gave itself its first attempt at a reboot.

Timothy Dalton had long been considered for the Bond role, first approached nearly 20 years earlier when Sean Connery walked away after You Only Live Twice. Dalton made the mature decision of realizing that – not yet 25 years old – he wasn’t old enough for every man’s dream role nor did he want to try to steal the spotlight from Connery. After Moore’s retirement and Brosnan’s recall to TV in 1986, Dalton was again approached and finally decided to take the role.

Dalton had been a fan of Ian Fleming’s novels, so his portrayal meant a return to the basics: less lavish outrageousness and more grounded seriousness. Dalton’s Bond was a seasoned, professional spy who shared his predecessors’ appreciation – if not weakness – for fast cars, women, and martinis.

In this scene, Bond is called to MI6’s Blayden House (actually Stonor House in Oxfordshire), where his superiors are debriefing with General Georgi Koskov, the loquacious ex-KGB official played by Jeroen Krabbé, the Dutch actor who seemingly specializes in playing charmingly eccentric villains whose treachery is always discovered in the final act.

What’d He Wear?

Despite Moneypenny telling him that M wanted him to “hurry”, Bond changes out of his gray herringbone three-piece city suit into a more appropriate country outfit of a gun club check sportcoat, knit tie, and trousers.

Bond wears gun club check for his trip to the safe house.

Bond wears gun club check for his trip to the safe house.

The last time gun club check appeared on BAMF Style, it was a louder pattern sported by Mad Men‘s Don Draper during a visit to the west coast in season four’s “The Good News”. A GQ analysis of this sporty style also delves into the origins; gun club check emerged in the mid-1800s as “the Coigach”, based on the district of the Scottish highlands where it originated, and thus also providing a nod to Bond’s Scottish heritage. The four original colors of the Coigach – black, red-brown, light gold, and pine green – intersected to create a geometric box pattern designed to resemble the district’s landscape palette.

Bond’s wool gun club check sportcoat is created by intersecting brown, blue, green, and black checks. The single-breasted, two-button sportcoat has notch lapels, a welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, and two-button cuffs. The padded shoulders are so wide that each roped sleevehead is slightly lower than usual on Dalton’s shoulders, a product of 1980s tailoring.

M is understandably concerned by Bond's "expense receipt".

M is understandably concerned by Bond’s “expense receipt”.

This sportcoat was auctioned by Christie’s in December 2001, fetching £411 ($593) and identifying the jacket’s maker as Benjamin Simon. Although other details are confirmed by the listing – such as the brown “art” silk – it strangely incorrectly mentions a “single vent” when the sport jacket seen in the film clearly has long double vents, best seen when Bond is entering the safe house.

Bond enters the safe house wearing the same gun club check sportcoat that was auctioned at Christie's 14 years later (inset).

Bond enters the safe house wearing the same gun club check sportcoat that was auctioned at Christie’s 14 years later (inset).

The gun club check sportcoat can be spotted later in the film; Bond is wearing it in the photo for his Soviet passport as “Jerzy Bondov”.

Different tie in the passport photo, though.

Different tie in the passport photo, though.

The rest of Bond’s outfit is comprised of various shades of brown, evoking his rustic surroundings and further establishing his outfit’s fitness for the country. His low rise trousers are dark brown wool with single pleats, slanted side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms.

Bond’s light ecru dress shirt has a spread collar, front placket, and single-button cuffs. His knit tie, a Fleming favorite, is dark brown with a flat bottom.

Bond sits in a cloud of smoke as Koskov debriefs the British intelligence chiefs.

Bond sits in a cloud of smoke as Koskov debriefs the British intelligence chiefs.

Bond’s brown leather oxfords are briefly seen as he exits his Aston Martin, although the break of the trousers and the distance of the shot prevent any additional details from being determined. Based on the brown shoes and trousers, it can be safely assumed that Bond is wearing brown socks as well.

A behind-the-scenes shot gives another look at Bond's outfit.

A behind-the-scenes shot gives another look at Bond’s outfit.

For another analysis of this outfit, check out Matt Spaiser’s post on his blog, The Suits of James Bond.

The Living Daylights meant the return of Swiss watches for James Bond, although this film was the only time 007 wore a TAG Heuer. He evidently forewent a wristwatch for this scene, however. His only visible accessory is the black leather shoulder rig that securely holsters his trusty Walther PPK under his left armpit, until the security detail takes it away.

"Sorry, Mr Bond. You'll have to leave the metal."

“Sorry, Mr Bond. You’ll have to leave the metal.”

Go Big or Go Home

Timothy Dalton marked the franchise’s first attempt to return to the source material for its character, a subtle but fashionable dresser with definite opinions about what he likes, remaining a shade shy of snobbery. The strong, unfiltered cigarettes of Fleming’s Bond make their return, likely due to Timothy Dalton’s real life smoking habit. Bond’s V8 Vantage is also the first Aston Martin seen in the series since On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, a convertible here until Q “winterizes” it for his snowy trip to the continent.

Dalton gets a nod to the snobbishness of Fleming’s Bond when he brings a picnic basket of gourmet food to General Koskov. M quickly realizes that Bond opted for items beyond the scope of MI6’s allotted budget, and it’s telling that this is one of the few times we actually see Bond turn in an expense receipt.

Koskov: As Russians say, hearts and stomachs good comrades make. What’s this? Caviar. Well, that’s peasant food for us, but with champagne it’s okay. Bollinger RD. The best!
Bond: (off M’s look) The brand on the list was questionable, sir, so I chose something else.

How to Get the Look

A callback to the sportier suits and jackets that Ian Fleming chose for his literary James Bond’s trips to the country, Timothy Dalton’s 007 dresses simply but stylishly when meeting with his business-suited superiors at the Blayden safe house.
TLD4-crop

  • Brown, blue, black, and green gun club check wool single-breasted 2-button sportcoat with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and long double vents
  • Dark brown wool single-pleated trousers with slanted side pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Light ecru dress shirt with spread collar, front placket, and 1-button cuffs
  • Dark brown knit necktie
  • Brown leather loafers
  • Brown dress socks
  • Black leather shoulder holster (RHD), for Walther PPK

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.


Gordon Gekko’s Charcoal Double-Breasted Suit

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Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street (1987).

Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street (1987).

Vitals

Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko, unscrupulously successful Wall Street businessman

New York City, Spring 1985

Film: Wall Street
Release Date: December 11, 1987
Director: Oliver Stone
Costume Designer: Ellen Mirojnick
Tailor: Alan Flusser

Background

BAMF Style is back to business on this Monday morning, taking a suggestion from commentors Jose, Andrey, and Ryan to heed the style – if not the business ethos – of Gordon Gekko, the corporate business raider of Wall Street who managed the task of making Charlie Sheen look like not such a bad guy.

“Greed…is good,” is how Wall Street is often best remembered, paraphrasing the famous speech given by Gekko while also summarizing his drive. Although frequently included in lists of “The 100 Greatest Movie Lines” (#57 by AFI and #70 by Premiere), it’s perhaps even more unnerving to know that it was inspired by the real words of stock trader Ivan Boesky. In 1986, the year before Wall Street was made, Boesky told the graduating class at the University of California:

Greed is all right, by the way. I want you to know that. I think greed is healthy. You can be greedy and still feel good about yourself.

Of course, Boesky became infamous for paying $100 million that year to the SEC to settle insider trading charges, but the damage was done and the dangerous “greed is good” mentality led to a generation redefining capitalism with unrestrained avarice. Two decades later, everyone from Australian PM Kevin Rudd to Cardinal Tarcisio Bertone cited the “greed is good” ideology as a direct cause of the 2007 financial crisis. “It is perhaps time now to admit that we did not learn the full lessons of the greed-is-good ideology,” realized Rudd in a 2008 speech. “We are still cleaning up the mess of the 21st-century children of Gordon Gekko.”

What’d He Wear?

Gray suits have been a businesswear staple for men since the first office was ever built, so it makes sense that the quintessential American business icon, Gordon Gekko, would have several lined up in his stable. An ardent follower of fashion, Gekko would know the impact of his clothes, so he dresses for power when he needs to look it the most. For a meeting at the 21 Club and later during the infamous “greed…is good” speech, Gekko wears the darkest of his gray suits, an intimidating charcoal wool double-breasted suit.

Gekko controls the room during the Teldar Papers shareholder meeting.

Gekko controls the room during the Teldar Papers shareholder meeting.

With its short fit and 4-on-1 buttoning double-breasted front, Gekko’s ventless suit jacket incorporates elements from the ’80s “power suit” although the shoulders – while padded – aren’t quite as boxy as the most prototypical examples. There is a buttonhole stitched through each of the jacket’s sweeping, wide peak lapels.

During his lunch at 21, an ornately printed silk kerchief in red, blue, and yellow pops from his welted breast pocket.

GekkoCharcoal-CL2-JktPktsq

Gekko always keeps his double-breasted jacket closed, hiding most of the trouser details other than the straight cut through the legs down to the plain-hemmed bottoms. Based on most of his other trousers, it can be deduced that they likely have double forward pleats, and buckle-strap side adjusters either in lieu or in addition to suspenders.

Designed by Ellen Mirojnick for the film and tailored by the legendary Alan Flusser, the solemnity of Gekko’s charcoal suit allows him to explore more interesting shirt and tie patterns without looking too sartorially brash.

During the space-invading lunch with Bud at the 21 Club, Gekko wears one of his horizontally-striped shirts that received attention from the New York Times in this style section article from August 1988:

According to Alex Kabbaz, the vice president of Custom Shirts by Denhof, which made the horizontally striped shirts that Michael Douglas wore in ”Wall Street,” that film, plus the resurgence of double-breasted suits, has brought an increase in demand. But because they appeal to a small, sophisticated market and because they are difficult to construct, horizontally striped shirts are generally custom-made.

The article cites the history of the horizontally-striped shirt and its flattering pairing with double-breasted suits, indicating that Gekko would know more than the average man about fashion when putting his outfit together. (Although, once again, credit is due to Ellen Mirojnick!) The article further informs readers that Kabbaz made his first horizontally-striped dress shirt in 1983 for novelist Tom Wolfe, already known for his distinctive sartorial preferences.

Gekko gives Bud Fox some business lessons.

Gekko gives Bud Fox some business lessons.

Gekko’s shirt is white with charcoal stripes in contrasting directions; the collar striping is vertical while the rest of the shirt is horizontally-striped. The shirt has a front placket, double cuffs, and a slim collar with a wide spread. His silk tie has a black ground with bold yellow dots, secured by a tie bar.

Gekko’s charcoal suit is next seen at the Teldar Papers shareholder meeting, where he eventually delivers his “greed…is good” message. Though confident as a businessman, Gekko knows that flash won’t impress the old money types in the room, so he dresses more conservatively with a plain white dress shirt and a dark navy silk tie with white pin dots, held in place with a rakishly-angled gold tie bar that matches his rectangular gold cuff links. Like all of his shirts, this shirt has a spread collar, front placket, and double cuffs.

Gordon Gekko breaks workplace decorum by actually cracking a smile during a meeting.

Gordon Gekko breaks workplace decorum by actually cracking a smile during a meeting.

Gekko wears black leather oxfords and dark – probably black – socks, saving the flash for the parts of his outfit that more people see.

Gold is most associated with opulence, so it’s no surprise to see it all over Gekko’s hands… perhaps as a subliminal message to investors that everything he touches turns to gold.

Though not clearly seen in these scenes, Gekko’s luxury watch is an 18-karat yellow gold Cartier Santos de Cartier Galbée with a white square dial on a gold bracelet. On his right wrist, he often wears a thin gold chain-link bracelet. Also on his right hand, he wears a large gold signet ring on his pinky.

Go Big or Go Home

Gordon Gekko’s Machiavellian personality leaves little to be desired, but it was Michael Douglas’s preparation for his role as the ruthless capitalist outlaw that deserves the most attention and accolades. Impressed by the script – and particularly the length of his monologues – Douglas buried himself in research of corporate raiders like T. Boone Pickens and Carl Icahn. Icahn is supposedly one of many men who Oliver Stone used as a composite for the role, others including art collector Asher Edelman, agent Michael Ovitz, scandalized Wall Street hotshots David Brown, Ivan Boesky, Dennis Levine, and Owen Morrisey, and even Stone himself.

To encourage the greatest performance out of Douglas, Stone took personal measures to enhance the actor’s repressed anger, even to the point of asking Douglas if he was doing drugs because “you look like you haven’t acted before”. According to IMDB, “all of this hard work culminated with the ‘Greed is good’ speech.”

Not only did Douglas’ performance strike an immediate chord with audiences who were either tired or inspired(!) by the insider trading scandals marring Wall Street at the time, but he also won his first acting Academy Award for the role and established himself as a cultural icon in his own right.

How to Get the Look

If you want to look like a successful – if not particularly friendly – ’80s power broker, then Gekko’s got the look for you. Don’t forget to slick back that hair, too.GekkoCharcoal-crop

  • Charcoal wool suit, tailored by Alan Flusser, consisting of:
    • Double-breasted 4-on-1 buttoned jacket with peak lapels, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and ventless back
    • Double forward-pleated trousers with straight leg fit and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White solid or dark-horizontally-striped dress shirt with slim spread collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Dark silk polka-dotted tie
  • Gold tie clip, angled down toward edge of tie
  • Gold rectangular cuff links
  • Black leather oxfords
  • Black dress socks
  • Large gold signet ring
  • Cartier Santos de Cartier Galbée gold wristwatch
  • Gold chain-link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

I am not a destroyer of companies. I am a liberator of them! The point is, ladies and gentleman, that greed, for lack of a better word, is good. Greed is right, greed works. Greed clarifies, cuts through, and captures the essence of the evolutionary spirit. Greed, in all of its forms; greed for life, for money, for love, knowledge has marked the upward surge of mankind. And greed, you mark my words, will not only save Teldar Paper, but that other malfunctioning corporation called the U.S.A.GekkoCharcoal-Quote


Han Solo

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Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Star Wars (1977).

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Star Wars (1977).

Vitals

Harrison Ford as Han Solo, swaggering space pirate and smuggler

A Long Time Ago in Galaxy Far Far Away

Film: Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope
Release Date: May 25, 1977
Director: George Lucas
Costume Designer: John Mollo

Film: Star Wars: Episode V – The Empire Strikes Back
Release Date: May 21, 1980
Director: Irvin Kershner
Costume Designer: John Mollo

Film: Star Wars: Episode VI – Return of the Jedi
Release Date: May 25, 1983
Director: Richard Marquand
Costume Design: Aggie Guerard Rodgers & Nilo Rodis-Jamero

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

May 4th is often celebrated by Star Wars fans so BAMF Style is taking today to honor its favorite fictional space traveler (and no, it’s not James Bond in Moonraker.)

This month marks the 39th anniversary of Star Wars‘ original release in 1977 and laid the foundation for one of the most acclaimed and popular film franchises of all time.

My sister and I have been self-described – and proud! – Star Wars nerds ever since we were introduced to the series at the time of the re-release in 1997. I was only in second grade, but the family connection was deeper than I realized at the time. Twenty years earlier, my mother and her brother went to a showing of the original Star Wars at a local Pittsburgh theater. During a battle scene on the Death Star as Luke and Leia were fighting it out with Imperial Stormtroopers, my uncle stood up and shouted “I’ll protect you, sis!” while firing a toy gun at the screen. (While certainly a sign of the times as this behavior may have had a tragically different outcome in 2016, it is an interesting parallel to the on-screen activity as George Lucas didn’t even realize yet that Luke and Leia were siblings.)

On December 17 last year, my family excitedly went to see The Force Awakens and all of our moderate expectations were totally surpassed as the series was perfectly reinvigorated with an excellent entry that served old and new fans alike. Of course, no discussion of The Force Awakens is complete without acknowledging the tragedy that kicks off the final act.

…a rangy, languid young man who is probably intelligent and amusing…

…is how the venerated Alec Guinness described Harrison Ford to a friend while deep in production of the first film, although this description could have also applied to Han Solo himself. Nearly 40 years later, it’s almost impossible to imagine anyone else in the role, though George Lucas was initially against the idea of bringing back an “old face” as Ford had starred in Lucas’ American Graffiti. However, Ford was tapped to read Han’s lines while other actors auditioned for other roles, and Lucas realized that Ford was the perfect choice to play the galactic scoundrel.

Although Lucas may have eventually settled on Luke Skywalker as his protagonist, it was always the sarcastic loner Han Solo who struck me as the series’ hero and certainly the coolest of the humans… at least until Billy Dee Williams’ Lando Calrissian showed up and an entire generation of Star Wars fans developed a craving for Colt 45.

Each of the leads in the Star Wars franchise experiences incredible growth, but it is Han Solo’s that resonates the most with me. A wittily cynical but ultimately honorable maverick who certainly would’ve been played by Humphrey Bogart had George Lucas made his flick 30 years earlier, Han’s reluctant involvement in the Rebel Alliance is motivated by his desire for wealth, spurred on by his sense of adventure, and eventually cemented by his principles that he allows to emerge as he grows throughout the series.

What’d He Wear?

Han Solo has the most consistently utilitarian and practical attire of his companions due to both the character’s sense of practicality as well as the requirements for a smuggler constantly on the run who has no need for the ceremonial robes of a Jedi knight. While details varied slightly from film to film, the essence of Han’s look remained the same.

Costume designer John Mollo deserves plenty of credit for establishing the character of Han Solo through his outfit in A New Hope, which was also Mollo’s inaugural film as lead costume designer. Mollo’s interest in costume design began at a young age as he fervently researched military uniforms of Europe and the United States, a background that he delved into while creating the martial-inspired look of fighters in the Star Wars universe. Lucas gave Mollo the duty of creating simple uniforms without buttons or embellishments with the directive of all characters that costuming shouldn’t be noticed above plot.

While the plot was enough to hold the attention of even the relatively uninterested Alec Guinness, Han Solo’s clothing has endured through the decades as some of the most popular film costuming of all time, reinvigorated for cosplayers and Halloweeners. There is plenty of information out there about Han’s attire, from a through-the-films breakdown at The Wookiee Gunner to DIY guides at StarWars.com and Kay-Dee.net. Some retailers have even started marketing their own well-researched takes on the Han Solo look. Rebel Legion offers an accurate breakdown for recreating each of Han’s respective looks.

Episode VI – A New Hope

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Star Wars (1977), later given the subtitle A New Hope after the sequels were released.

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Star Wars (1977), later given the subtitle A New Hope after the sequels were released.

According to Brandon Alinger in Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy, Lucas’ directive for Han Solo eventually settled on “a pocketed vest, a gun belt, tuxedo-striped trousers, and high boots” rather than his original vision of “a Flash Gordon-style hat and a chest pack” that Harrison Ford surely would have rebelled against.

Han’s beige v-neck pullover shirt is unique to A New Hope as he switches to a chest-flapped tunic for the adventures that follow. The shirt, which appears to be constructed from a woven cotton or cotton flannel, has a deep v-neck with a standing collar that resembles a button-less henley more than a T-shirt. It has long, set-in sleeves and plain cuffs.

Han broods.

Han broods.

Although some replicas are available in leather (like this FilmJackets version for $159), Han’s black vest in A New Hope appears to be a medium weight cotton twill. The vest is meant to be worn open with no zipper, buttons, or closure of any kind. Unlike a suit’s waistcoat, it extends straight down from the collar to the bottom.

Appropriately for a smuggler, Han’s vest has plenty of pockets with five patch pockets on the front alone. Each front panel has a large lower patch pocket with a squared flap. The left chest has a slightly smaller flapped patch pocket while the right chest panel has a full patch pocket with a slanted cutaway on the right side. A smaller, rectangular pocket is inset over the right chest pocket, much like a modern “pen pocket”.

Han's got plenty of pockets on his vest.

Han’s got plenty of pockets on his vest.

The back of the vest has four separate vertical loops across the upper back on a yoked panel. On the panel below the loops is a large patch “poacher’s pocket” with a flap, extending all the way across the back.

What kind of self-respecting smuggler would wear something with less than five pockets?

What kind of self-respecting smuggler would wear something with less than five pockets?

Publicity photo of Han and Chewie.

Publicity photo of Han and Chewie.

Han wears tight navy blue brushed denim cavalry-style trousers with a plain front, tall belt loops, and – reportedly – a zip fly. The leg tapers down to a likely strap under the foot to keep the pants in line under his boots. There are no pockets, and a top-stitched riding seam curves around the seat in the back. These pants appear to have a similar texture as a lightweight twill, not quite as loose-fitting as dress trousers while not as rigidly structured as most jeans.

The most distinctive aspect of Han’s trousers is the presence of a red “Corellian bloodstripe” down the outside of each leg, consisting of a series of short horizontal lines hand-embroidered onto a strip of matching fabric that lines up behind the trouser seam on each side. While this has been described practically as tuxedo striping or colored piping, the Star Wars expanded universe explains in canon that this is an award for “conspicuous gallantry” by the Corellian military forces. The red striping seen on Han’s trousers in A New Hope is the “first class” Corellian bloodstripe; he would wear his yellow “second class” blood stripes in The Empire Strikes Back and Return of the Jedi on his brown trousers.

Han’s black leather knee-high boots are worn over the lower leg of his trousers, exposing the boots’ smooth, equestrian-style uppers.

When slipping into the pilot seat of the Millennium Falcon, Han dons a pair of simple two-tone brown driving gloves, serving here as flight gloves.

Han turns on the charm after assuming Leia would be impressed by his marksmanship.

Han turns on the charm after assuming Leia would be impressed by his marksmanship.

A New Hope is the only appearance of Han’s dark brown belt as he switches to black for the rest of the adventures following. The wide leather belt has three rows of holes with only the top and bottom rows utilized for the dual-pronged steel roller buckle.

The details of Han's leather rig are best seen when he's talking to Jabba before leaving Tattooine.

The details of Han’s leather rig are best seen when he’s talking to Jabba before leaving Tattooine.

Han also sports a brown leather holster rig that consists of a utility belt, a steel modular buckle, and a holster that straps around his right thigh. A silver tube-like device secured to the left side of Han’s holster belt is a “droid caller”, an in-universe gadget that would ostensibly work as a remote control, signalling a droid’s restraining bolt for the droid to return to its owner.

Episode V – The Empire Strikes Back

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in The Empire Strikes Back (1980).

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in The Empire Strikes Back (1980).

For The Empire Strikes Back, Han Solo’s primary outfit was updated to what has become one of the most popular costumes of the series to the point of Anovos creating its official “Bespin costume” using meticulous original research from the original production. Anovos offers its staggeringly accurate recreation for $480 (plus an extra $50 if you want the belt).

Alinger’s Star Wars Costumes states that John Mollo’s original concept for Han’s costume would bring back his black vest from A New Hope over an “under flying overall” jumpsuit, but director Irvin Kershner wanted to keep the established character look intact with some adjustments.

The most significant adjustment to Han’s costume is the pocketed wool jacket, which Anovos digitally dye-matched its poly-cotton replica to the original heathered dark blue color with a gray satin-lined interior. The jacket has a banded collar, padded shoulders, and – like his earlier vest – is worn open with no methods of front closure. There are four gusseted billows pockets on the front – two chest and two hip – as well as a large flapped “poacher’s pocket” across his lower back.

Luke appears pretty jealous that Han gets all the best costumes.

Luke appears pretty jealous that Han gets all the best costumes (and definitely some of the better dialogue).

The left sleeve also has a single pocket on the upper bicep with a flap resembling a long trapezoid; Luke’s jacket (which he wears on Dagobah and Cloud City) has the same pocket, implying that Han’s jacket may possibly be issued to him by the Rebel Alliance.

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I don’t know what ostensible purpose that pocket would serve, but there it is.

He ostensibly loses his jacket on Cloud City as it is taken from him before he is frozen in carbonite. (Interestingly, Han’s profile when frozen in carbonite also seems to use the A New Hope shirt as a model rather than the correct double-breasted flap version.)

The shirt from A New Hope appears on the carbonite model of Han used in The Empire Strikes Back (here) and later in Return of the Jedi.

The shirt from A New Hope appears on the carbonite model of Han used in The Empire Strikes Back (here) and later in Return of the Jedi.

Han’s lightweight flannel shirt in The Empire Strikes Back is the closest to a pure white shirt that he wears in the original trilogy, and it has more military-inspired details than his previous shirt – perhaps due to Han’s increased role with the Rebel Alliance. While it still has a standing collar, there is a “double-breasted” flap across the chest – which Anovos calls an “offset lapel” – that can be secured to his right shoulder. In Anovos’ case, the fastening would be a clear snap.

The condemned man enjoys one last kiss.

The condemned man enjoys one last kiss.

A behind-the-scenes shot from the filming of Return of the Jedi sheds a little more light on this shirt. Although the front bib appears to extend to the bottom of the shirt, it is sewn shut above the waist with three cinched closures going up the right side of the chest, allowing the top of the flap to hang freely.

Mark Hamill and Harrison Ford run through a rehearsal for a scene in Return of the Jedi.

Mark Hamill and Harrison Ford run through a rehearsal for a scene on Jabba’s skiff in Return of the Jedi.

Han’s brown flat front cavalry-style trousers have similar features seen on his navy pants in A New Hope, including the belt loops, zip fly, and sharp front crease down each leg. The texture implies a different material, however, possibly a wool and polyester gabardine as I’ve seen suggested. On these brown pants, Han wears his yellow “second class” Corellian bloodstripe. Anovos confirms that their replica uses elastic stirrups under each foot, covered by the same black riding-style leather boots.

The sewn-on strip of Han's Corellian bloodstripe is especially visible after he is tossed into the brig.

The sewn-on strip of Han’s Corellian bloodstripe is especially visible after he is tossed into the brig.

Han wears a black version of his leather belt from A New Hope, perhaps to provide a better contrast against his brown pants… while simultaneously following the accepted sartorial practice of matching belts and footwear. Again, the silver-toned roller buckle is dual-pronged, clawing through the top and bottom of the belt’s three notch rows. Anovos sells its belt replica separately for $60.

I have a bad feeling about this...

I have a bad feeling about this…

To complete the look, Anovos also researched and recreated the holster rig that Han wore in The Empire Strikes Back and Return of the Jedi with screen-used assets provided by Skywalker Archives, available for $500.

Anovos crafted its belt and holster from genuine saddle leather that was dyed and weathered to match the well-worn brown leather of Han’s on-screen rig. The modular heavy-gauge stainless steel buckles “can be arranged to allow for any configuration seen in the original trilogy”, although Han typically wore his holster strapped around his right thigh. Four utility pockets have been sewn onto the belt to match the one seen on screen. Accessories include a spring steel-machined droid caller clipped to the left side and an aluminum-machined “anti-security disc”.

Episode VI – Return of the Jedi

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Return of the Jedi (1983).

Harrison Ford as Han Solo in Return of the Jedi (1983).

Return of the Jedi combines Han’s outfits from the previous two films, incorporating most of the elements of The Empire Strikes Back‘s costume with a black vest that recalls his initial garb in A New Hope.

Han’s black vest in Return of the Jedi is cut the same but appears to be a lighter weight cotton than his vest in A New Hope. It retains the same four loops across the back as his first vest and the tops of each loop line up with a horizontal yoke across the top of the back, although the poacher’s patch pocket present on both of his previous outer garments has been discarded for a plain lower back.

The Harrison Ford smirk was perfected by 1983.

The Harrison Ford smirk was perfected by 1983.

The four-pocket front of Han’s Return of the Jedi vest shares more in common with his jacket in The Empire Strikes Back than his previous vest. There are two gusseted bellows pockets on each side; like the back, a horizontal yoke stretches across the top seam of the chest pockets.

Han’s white flap-chested shirt returns from The Empire Strikes Back, which makes sense given that the narrative picks up after he is unfrozen from carbonite while wearing the same clothing he was frozen in.

The sadistic Jabba even makes Han enter a wet t-shirt contest.

The sadistic Jabba even makes Han enter a wet t-shirt contest.

For the assault on Endor, Han changes into a slightly heavier tan flannel shirt with the same double-breasted flap chest as his previous shirt. This shirt also has a wider cuff with stitching a few inches from the end of the sleeve.

Leia and Han team up on Endor.

Leia and Han, now “General Solo”, team up on Endor.

Due to the carbonite circumstances, Han also wears the same brown cavalry twill trousers as seen in The Empire Strikes Back with their yellow Corellian bloodstripe. According to The Wookiee Gunner, Ford’s zip fly loosened while filming, and the new costume design team was tasked with sewing it back together while on set.

This would be a bad time to need to zip up your fly.

This would be a bad time to need to zip up your fly.

Han wears the same black leather belt and black equestrian-style knee-high leather boots as he had before. His familiar brown leather holster rig with its steel modular buckle also returned, securely fastening his DL-44 blaster to his right thigh.

Han's easily-accessible holster comes in handy when battling it out against the Empire on Endor.

Han’s easily-accessible holster comes in handy when battling it out against the Empire on Endor.

The author of the earlier-cited Kay-Dee.net DIY guide took some excellent photos from the “Dressing a Galaxy” event, which can be found at this link and provide a great detailed look at Han’s costume from Return of the Jedi as well as several other famous costumes from the franchise.

HanSolo-CL6f-DusterThe Wookiee Gunner also cites early wardrobe department notes that dictated a fresh costume for Han consisting of a simple-collared dark green military shirt and black trousers with second class Corellian bloodstripe, all described as “combat outfit, leather camouflage”. While the narrative and Han’s individuality meant instead retaining most of the costume from The Empire Strikes Back, he was outfitted in a bit of camouflage upon landing on Endor in the form of a brown camouflaged ankle-length duster with long notch lapels and a single rear vent. Like most of the other costumes of the series, there is no front closure and the two hip pockets are flapped bellows pockets.

Supposedly, Han’s “duster” was actually a white doctor’s lab coat that was dyed various shades of brown and green to provide camouflage, although the extreme length of the coat is more indicative of a butcher’s coat like this one with its tie removed. In either sense, coats like these are typically made from cotton, polyester, or a blend of both.

Go Big or Go Home

…and try to go home in the Millennium Falcon. It may often be dismissed as a “bucket of bolts”, but it’s our bucket of bolts.

It was the ILM special effects crew whose in-house names for the X-Wing and Y-Wing fighters later became canon in the series. Their nickname of "Porkburger" for the Millennium Falcon didn't have the same effect.

It was the ILM special effects crew whose in-house names for the X-Wing and Y-Wing fighters later became canon in the series. Their nickname of “Porkburger” for the Millennium Falcon didn’t have the same effect.

I’m not alone in my admiration as Han Solo constantly appears on lists of the greatest characters in movies, with AFI and Entertainment Weekly each listing him as the 14th and 7th, respectively, greatest heroes of pop culture, and Empire magazine even naming him the 4th greatest movie character of all-time. George Lucas created the character, but it was Harrison Ford who truly made the character his own. It is Ford who was credited with one of Han’s most character-defining moments. Just before Han was frozen in carbonite in The Empire Strikes Back, Leia finally comes to terms with her feelings about the reckless smuggler and emotionally declares “I love you!” to which our hero responds:

I know.

It certainly wasn’t the first time that Ford modified the dialogue to mold his character’s persona. “You can type this shit, but you can’t say it,” Ford reportedly said of Lucas’ original script for A New Hope, and he joined co-stars Mark Hamill and Carrie Fisher in standing up to Lucas, who graciously listened to the actors’ frustrations and allowed them to improvise their own wording. (For an auteur who had spent years perfecting his magnum opus, George Lucas certainly deserves some credit for listening to the feedback of his young stars and allowing them the clearance to drive his project to even greater heights.)

Harrison Ford in costume tests for A New Hope.

Harrison Ford in costume tests for A New Hope.

How to Get the Look

Han’s outfit from A New Hope has become one of the most iconic movie costumes of all time.

  • Beige cotton flannel v-neck pullover long-sleeve shirt
  • Black cotton twill open-front vest with four front patch pockets (three bellows pockets and a slanted upper right pocket), four upper back loops, and lower back “poacher’s” patch pocket
  • Navy blue cavalry twill front-creased trousers with red Corellian bloodstripe down each side, tall belt loops, zip fly, rear riding seam, and elastic stirrup bottoms
  • Dark brown leather triple-eyelet belt with steel dual-prong buckle
  • Brown leather utility rig with modular buckle and right-thigh holster
  • Black leather knee-high equestrian boots

There are many replicas and costumes out there with varying degrees of accuracy. For best results, follow one of the cited DIY guides or check out a pro like Anovos who researched the heck out of the costuming before marketing their replica.

The Gun

Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

For Han Solo, that “good blaster” is the “BlasTech DL-44” heavy blaster pistol, an in-universe weapon developed cosmetically from the Mauser C96 semi-automatic pistol developed for the German military around the turn of the 20th century.

An honest representation of Harrison Ford's feelings about the character.

An honest representation of Harrison Ford’s feelings about the character.

A definitive source of information about the transformation of the iconic “Broomhandle” Mauser into Han’s distinctive DL-44 is David Higginbotham’s September 2012 article on Guns.com, where he tracks the origins of the weapon as well as the three made by by Elstree Props and/or Bapty & Co. for the three original movies, including the first live-fire model that had originally been modified for the 1968 Frank Sinatra film The Naked Runner.

Han draws his first DL-44, a modified C96, in A New Hope.

Han draws his first DL-44, a modified C96, in A New Hope.

Higginbotham describes the changes made to Han’s blaster after the success of A New Hope meant a greater budget for Lucas’ artistic vision in The Empire Strikes Back, where both Han and Luke would be armed with the same blaster:

…the DL-44 was redesigned. The conical muzzle was turned from aluminum. The scope was shortened and brought closer to the blaster’s frame. The detail work on the gun’s side (the additional dials and buttons) were refined.

Han may believe in having a good blaster at his side, but Darth Vader proves that it's of no use to him against the Force in The Empire Strikes Back.

Han may believe in having a good blaster at his side, but Darth Vader proves that it’s of no use to him against the Force in The Empire Strikes Back.

The Mauser C96 from which the DL-44 was designed was one of the first modern semi-automatic pistols, originally produced in 1896. It quickly gained popularity among world militaries and users as varied as Winston Churchill, Lawrence of Arabia, Chinese warlords, and Irish revolutionaries. The proprietary 7.63x25mm cartridge had a reputation for its penetration abilities, as the “BlasTech DL-44” would in the Star Wars expanded universe. In fact, for nearly 40 years, the 7.63mm Mauser round was the highest velocity pistol cartridge commercially manufactured. With its unique “broomhandle”-shaped wooden grip, integral box magazine, and long barrel, the distinctive Mauser C96 became a common fixture in movies as an exotic alternative for a handgun, notably wielded to great effect by Clint Eastwood in Joe Kidd before it was modified into the DL-44 for Han Solo.

Han and the Ewoks kick some Imperial ass on Endor in Return of the Jedi.

Han and the Ewoks kick some Imperial ass on Endor in Return of the Jedi.

And, yes, Han shot first.

Suck it, Greedo. My particular DVD may say otherwise but mark my words: Han shot first.

Suck it, Greedo. My particular DVD may try to say otherwise but mark my words: Han shot first.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the original trilogy. And check out The Force Awakens; this long-time Star Wars fan can totally endorse it.

If you’re specifically interested in costuming from the films, there are several well-researched books on the subject like Brandon Alinger’s Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy and Trisha Biggar’s Dressing a Galaxy: The Costumes of Star Wars.

The Quote

What good is a reward if you ain’t around to use it?



Patrick Bateman’s Tuxedo

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Christian Bale and Cara Seymour as Patrick Bateman and Christie, respectively, in American Psycho (2000).

Christian Bale and Cara Seymour as Patrick Bateman and Christie, respectively, in American Psycho (2000).

Vitals

Christian Bale as Patrick Bateman, shallow investment banker and possible serial killer

New York City, Spring 1988

Film: American Psycho
Release Date: April 14, 2000
Director: Mary Harron
Costume Designer: Isis Mussenden

Background

Halloween approaching is a fine time to address a monster in human form like Patrick Bateman who may have been a sharp dresser (for the ’80s) but was undoubtedly a terrible human being (in any era!)

You can tell Bateman is trying his best to be seen as a classy host; he plays Phil Collins, after all! Of course, Bateman is hindered by the fact that no classy evening should ever include the words “don’t just stare at it, eat it!”

What’d He Wear?

In the chapter “Thursday” of Bret Easton Ellis’ American Psycho, Patrick Bateman describes his attire:

I’m wearing a six-button double-breasted wool-crepe tuxedo with pleated trousers and a silk grosgrain bow tie, all by Valentino.

A style-hound like Bateman likely picked up his tuxedo after reading about the resurgence of 1930s formalwear, especially the double-breasted dinner jacket, in GQ’s annual formalwear roundup in December 1984. As excerpted by Black Tie Guide: “To be sure, the Thirties remain the inspiration: double-breasted dinner jackets with peaked satin or grosgrain lapels…”

The film American Psycho perfectly brings Bateman’s formalwear to life with a yuppie update of the ’30s double-breasted dinner jacket. The black dinner jacket worn by Christian Bale on screen has a 6-on-2 button double-breasted front and a long, full cut. The full-bellied peak lapels are satin-faced and sweep out wide across his chest, pointing up toward each shoulder. Each lapel has a buttonhole that runs parallel to the slanted gorge.

Bateman methodically frames his evening.

Bateman methodically frames his evening.

While likely not wool crepe, Bateman’s dinner jacket has a sheen that implies possibly mohair, silk, or a blend. The shoulders are padded and extend very wide. There is a welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and ventless back. The buttons on the front and the three buttons on each cuff are all covered in black satin silk.

The matching formal trousers are fully cut to match the excess style of the ’80s. They have double reverse pleats, slightly slanted side pockets, and no back pockets. A satin stripe runs down each side of the trousers down to the plain-hemmed bottoms.

The trouser waistband is plain with no belt loops or adjusters. The suspenders fasten to six buttons inside his waistband: two in the back and two sets of two in the front. The braces themselves are white and wide, divided into three equal-width stripes each separated by a hairline black stripe. Two black rectangular tabs in the front separate the braces from the white fabric double runner ends that hook through the inner right and left buttons of the trouser waistband. A black leather patch in the back center meets the two front straps before they converge. The back section of the suspenders connect to his trouser waistband with a black leather double-button ear in the center.

You'll never think of "Sussudio" the same way again.

You’ll never think of “Sussudio” the same way again.

Bateman wears a white formal shirt with a point collar and narrowly-pleated front bib. The four round yellow gold studs down the placket match the larger yellow gold cuff links that fasten each of the shirt’s double cuffs. His butterfly-shaped bow tie is black satin silk, matching his lapel facings.

A shit-eating grin... possibly from many years of not just staring at it, ifyouknowwhatImean.

A shit-eating grin… the natural result from many years of not just staring at it, ifyouknowwhatImean.

Only briefly seen, Bateman’s footwear is the formality-appropriate black patent leather balmorals with black silk dress socks.

Bateman briefly ignores his bathing "guest" to take a phone call.

Bateman briefly ignores his bathing “guest” to take a phone call.

When venturing outside, Bateman complements his aspired image as a dashing young chauffeured businessman with a beige cashmere scarf draped around his neck.

Patrick Bateman's "charm" is lost on Christie, one of the few characters who sees him for who he is.

Patrick Bateman’s “charm” is lost on Christie, one of the few characters who sees him for who he is.

Don’t touch the watch!

In the book, the line was “Don’t touch the Rolex,” although the brand had obvious misgivings about being so blatantly included in the more accessible cinematic adaptation. Still, the line would have been an accurate one as Bale’s Bateman (not be confused with Bale’s Batman) wears a Rolex DateJust in mixed “Rolesor” yellow and white gold  with a 36mm case and gold dial, closed over his left wrist on a two-tone “Jubilee” bracelet.

How to Get the Look

aptux-cropThe definitive Me Decade yuppie, Patrick Bateman’s black tie ensemble is accurate to the ’80s with its oversized homage to the ’30s.

  • Black mohair double-breasted dinner jacket with satin-faced wide peak lapels, silk-covered 6-on-2 button front, welted breast pocket, jetted straight hip pockets, silk-covered 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Black mohair reverse-pleated formal trousers with satin side stripes, plain waistband, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White formal dress shirt with point collar, narrow pleated bib (with four gold studs), and double/French cuffs
  • Black satin silk butterfly-shaped bow tie
  • Gold cuff links
  • White triple-striped suspenders with black leather accents
  • Black leather cap-toe balmorals
  • Black silk dress socks
  • Beige cashmere scarf
  • Rolex DateJust in stainless 36mm case with two-tone yellow gold and stainless “Jubilee” bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Do you like Phil Collins?


Casino – Ace Rothstein’s Tan Blazer

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Robert De Niro as Sam "Ace" Rothstein in Casino (1995).

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino (1995).

Vitals

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein, Vegas casino executive and mob associate

Las Vegas, Spring 1980

Film: Casino
Release Date: November 22, 1995
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Rita Ryack & John A. Dunn

Background

1976 was a rough year for Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal.

Plagued by his history of illegal gambling and mob ties, the bookie who had seemingly found his place managing the Stardust Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas was now under state scrutiny for operating without a license. Despite his criminal ties, Lefty is often remembered now as a visionary in the gambling community.

When Rosenthal died in 2008, gaming analyst Larry Grossman told the Las Vegas Sun that he “was one of the first handicappers to be purely analytical in viewing sports betting… he paved the way for many to follow.” The Sun itself went on to describe that “today every major casino in Las Vegas has sports book salons modeled after the one Rosenthal put in at the old Stardust.” Lefty’s cinematic counterpart, Sam Rothstein, had even realized: “Back home, they would have put me in jail for what I’m doing. Here, they’re giving me awards.” But the awards are long over.

Called out for having operated in a managerial role at the Stardust without a license, Lefty followed the procedure to apply with the Nevada Gaming Commission and came before the control board in January 1976, where he was grilled for two days by attorney Jeff Silver in a series of ugly exchanges. As Silver relayed decades later to the Las Vegas Review-Journal, the two men found themselves standing next to each other while relieving themselves, making their figurative pissing contest a reality. Rosenthal addressed Silver: “You’re Jewish, I’m Jewish. Why can’t we just get along?” to which Silver replied with his characteristic quick wit: “I generally don’t talk to gentlemen at restroom urinals.”

The real Frank "Lefty" Rosenthal consults his attorney, future Las Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman, during his gaming license hearings in the mid-1970s.

The real Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal consults his attorney, future Las Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman, during his gaming license hearings in the mid-1970s.

The exchanges got ugly, as was later reflected in Martin Scorsese’s Casino when Sam “Ace” Rothstein – the cinematic substitute for the real Rosenthal – was not only denied his license but also denied the opportunity to appeal and fight back for one, leading to a very public argument with the chairman of the Nevada Gaming Commission. The chairman, played by Dick Smothers, was based on Harry Reid, currently the U.S. Senate Minority Leader and formerly the NGC chairman from 1977 to 1981. Reid verbally sparring with Rosenthal after the latter’s rehearing was denied formed the basis for this scene in the film.

Reid wasn’t the only party involved who would later achieve greater political fame. Oscar Goodman, who portrays himself in this scene, was Rosenthal’s attorney at the time and would later be elected Mayor of Las Vegas on June 8, 1999, four days shy of Rosenthal’s 70th birthday. Goodman served as mayor for an impressive 12 years, during which time he also served as a spokesperson for Bombay Sapphire gin and was also named the Least Effective Public Official by readers of the Las Vegas Review-Journal.

For more information about this incident in Vegas history, State v. Rosenthal (1977) is posted online.

What’d He Wear?

Ace is forced to tone down his silk pastels for his hearing, taking a conservative approach of earth tones for a day in the political arena where his flashy mob connections have already gotten in the way of his fair shot at a gaming license. Every element of Ace’s outfit incorporates shades of yellow, gold, or brown, unifying his color palette.

Ace wears a tan single-breasted blazer in a soft fabric, likely cashmere given his status and penchant for luxury. The shoulders are wide and well-padded out the roped sleeveheads. The jacket has two flat gold sew-through buttons on the front with a single, slightly larger matching gold button on each cuff. The lapels are the same fishmouth “cran necker” notch lapels that appear on many of his jackets. There are two long vents in the back.

Ace’s jacket has sporty patch pockets on the hips and a welted breast pocket where he wears a brown silk display kerchief puffing out, made by Anto to perfectly match his tie.

Ace assures the gaming commission that he intends to fight their ruling.

Ace assures the gaming commission that he intends to fight their ruling. Oscar Goodman, playing himself, stands behind Robert De Niro’s left arm.

Ace goes a humble step further, eschewing his usual silk shirts in favor of a pale yellow Swiss cotton dress shirt. Anto confirmed the details of this shirt that they made for the film, which incorporates the same long point collar as his usual shirts with a single cuff at the end of each sleeve. Ace fastens his cuffs with a pair of 14-carat yellow gold cuff links that may be set with cubic zirconia or citrine. The patch pocket has a shaped bottom and top-stitched pointed welt effect at the top, emboldened with the “SR” monogram.

Ace’s dark brown silk tie, knotted here in a four-in-hand, was also made by Anto and – as noted – perfectly matches his pocket square.

Ace wears all earth tones, right down to his pale yellow shirt and matching brown silk tie and pocket square, all from Anto.

Ace wears all earth tones, right down to his pale yellow shirt and matching brown silk tie and pocket square, all from Anto.

Ace wears a pair of dark brown trousers, a shade warmer than his brown silk tie, that appear to be the same trousers he wore with his burnt orange jacket a few scenes later. The flat front trousers have a fitted waistband with an extended tab in the front. The legs are straight down to the plain-hemmed bottoms. His trousers have frogmouth front pockets, more similar to those on jeans than on modern dress pants, as best seen when he places his left hand in his pocket during his harangue against the committee who denied his license.

Though barely seen, the brief glimpse of Ace’s feet appear to show him wearing dark brown suede desert boots, likely worn with dark brown silk socks.

 

Ace does not intend to go quietly.

Ace does not intend to go quietly.

Ace’s jewelry and accessories are at their most limited and conservative in this scene. Typically a pinky ring wearer, Ace avoids this mob-associated affectation during his hearing, sporting only a yellow gold-banded watch strapped to his right wrist. This may be one of the vintage yellow gold wristwatches from Bueche Girod, Juvena, or Noblia that Robert De Niro wore on screen in Casino.

Of course, once Ace is denied his shot at a license, the proverbial gloves come off and the literal sunglasses go on. He steps out into the hallway, addressing reporters behind the shield of the brown lenses in his large plastic tortoise-framed sunglasses.

The oversized sunglasses, clenched cigarette, and cantankerous demeanor don't do as much for Ace as he might think.

The oversized sunglasses, clenched cigarette, and cantankerous demeanor don’t do as much for Ace as he might think.

Casino‘s costume team put plenty of work into ensuring that Robert De Niro’s onscreen wardrobe reflected the real Lefty Rosenthal’s clothing as much as possible. De Niro, noted for his extreme method acting, was probably delighted that Rosenthal had been an Anto client and the shirtmaker still had his original orders on file to replicate exact fabric and details – including those long point collars – for De Niro’s shirts and ties in the movie.

Evidently, this was a look frequently sported by the real Frank Rosenthal, as seen in this production shot from his late '70s TV show... where his guest is none other than Don Rickles.

Evidently, this was a look frequently sported by the real Frank Rosenthal, as seen in this production shot from his late ’70s TV show… where his guest is none other than Don Rickles.

Check out Ibraheem Youssef’s poster that illustrates all of Ace’s Casino suits. This outfit is depicted with matching tan trousers and light cream shoes.

How to Get the Look

Nearly twenty years after he had been a guest on the real Frank Rosenthal's show, Don Rickles appeared in Casino as casino manager Billy Sherbert.

Nearly twenty years after he had been a guest on the real Frank Rosenthal’s show, Don Rickles appeared in Casino as casino manager Billy Sherbert.

Ace doesn’t sacrifice personal style when it comes to dressing smartly to give the appearance of a serious businessman in a desert community. Unfortunately, that doesn’t stop his mouth and his past from getting him into deeper trouble.

  • Tan cashmere single-breasted 2-button blazer with fishmouth “cran necker” lapels, welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 1-button cuffs, and long double vents
  • Dark brown flat front trousers with tab-front waistband, frogmouth front pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Pale yellow Swiss cotton Anto dress shirt with long point collar, front placket, monogrammed breast pocket, and single cuffs
  • Dark brown silk Anto necktie
  • Gold cuff links
  • Dark brown sueded leather desert boots
  • Dark brown silk dress socks
  • Yellow gold wristwatch with rectangular case, square dial, and flat bracelet

For a final touch of earth tone class, Ace wears a dark brown silk display kerchief puffing from his jacket’s breast pocket.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Bullshit! We all have a past. You have a past, I have a past, and my past is no worse than yours… but you guys think you have the right to pass judgment on me!

Footnote

Although the bulk of Rosenthal’s run-ins and hearings with the Nevada Gaming Commission occurred in 1976 and 1977, the film chose to portray the year as 1980; hence, my listing the setting as 1980 above.


Casino – De Niro’s Red Silk Jacket

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Robert De Niro as Sam "Ace" Rothstein in Casino (1995).

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino (1995).

Vitals

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein, Vegas casino executive and mob associate

Las Vegas, Fall 1980

Film: Casino
Release Date: November 22, 1995
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Rita Ryack & John A. Dunn

Background

It’s now December, a chilly month that means seeing plenty of red everywhere to celebrate the holiday season. For my office’s upcoming Christmas party, I’ll be choosing to channel the memorable red-and-black custom-made ensemble that Robert De Niro wore as idiosyncratic casino executive Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino.

The real Ace – Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal – was reportedly a loud dresser himself, known for sporting loud pastels and bold earth tones. Rosenthal’s shirtmaker, Anto Beverly Hills, was even contracted by the filmmakers to delve into its own archives to recreate Lefty’s distinctive shirts and ties for De Niro to wear on screen. (Now that would be a nice Christmas gift for someone, if you’re still looking for ideas…)

Costume designer Rita Ryack has stated that she wanted Casino‘s costume colors to reflect the surrounding level of chaos in the story. In this sequence, things have basically escalated to the same “powder keg” level as the Balkans in 1914. Ace’s mercurial ex-wife Ginger (Sharon Stone) has an expensive drug problem, an abusive pimp boyfriend (James Woods), and a terrible habit of tying up their youngest daughter so she can go out on the town with her new boyfriend… and, of course, that boyfriend is Ace’s frenemy Nicky Santoro (Joe Pesci), a violently volatile gangster who sees Las Vegas as his own murderous playground. Mix in some Mafia overlords and a shotgun-toting Don Rickles and you’ve got yourself one hell of a situation… certainly the sort of situation that calls for a red silk sport coat.

What’d He Wear?

Into this pastiche of tackiness walks De Niro, a sartorial vision in a bright red jacket made of raw silk over all-black undergirding.

…even Chris Willman of the Los Angeles Times felt there was something notable about De Niro’s red silk jacket ensemble when writing the paper’s February 22, 1995 cover story about Casino. It’s an outfit that could only be so brazenly pulled off by a man like Sam “Ace” Rothstein: a slightly overconfident man whose sense of self-awareness has become so clouded by the “pastiche of tackiness” of 1970s Las Vegas that, to him, there’s simply no question that it’s an acceptable outfit for a night on the town.

Poor paranoid Ace can't even enjoy a night on the town. Of course, you'd be paranoid too if you had the sort of ex who would leave your daughter tied up while she went on a bender.

Poor Ace can’t even enjoy a stress-free night out. Of course, you’d be paranoid too if you had the sort of ex who would leave your daughter tied up while she went on a bender. (Interestingly, the woman to Ace’s right – Trudy – is played by Claudia Haro, who was previously married to Joe Pesci before they divorced in 1992.)

In a three hour movie with dozens of costume changes, few cinematic attention is paid to this outfit. It doesn’t get the grand pan-up shot that introduced the adult Henry Hill to Goodfellas audiences by the way of his alligator loafers and gray silk suit; Scorsese matter-of-factly presents Sam Rothstein’s red silk jacket as merely another loud set of clothing that we would expect from a man who has at least three different mint green sport coats.

Ace’s bright red raw silk jacket is single-breasted with characteristic styling of the 1980s like the low two-button stance, extra wide lapel notches, and heavily padded shoulders that hangs the jacket loosely on De Niro’s frame to create an even more powerful, imposing presence as he looms over Nicky.

Ace's imposing presence in Nicky's restaurant is probably helped by the fact that Robert De Niro is 5'9" compared to Joe Pesci's 5'4" height.

Ace’s imposing presence in Nicky’s restaurant is probably helped by the fact that Robert De Niro is 5’9″ compared to Joe Pesci’s 5’4″ height.

The three spaced buttons on each cuff are the same dark red plastic as the two on the front and are purely decorative and non-functional. Although ventless jackets would become fashionable during the ’80s, Ace’s red sport coat has a single vent in the back. There is a straight flapped pocket on each hip and a welted breast pocket, where Ace wears a multi-folded red-trimmed black silk display kerchief.

Ace can't help but to keep the nasty words coming!

Ace can’t help but to keep the nasty words coming!

As that red jacket is certainly enough on its own, Ace simplifies the rest of his outfit with a total monochromatic color scheme. His black shirt, tie, and trousers – or “undergirdling” as Willman called it in his L.A. Times piece – takes on a blue shine in certain light, but both the shirtmaker Anto and behind-the-scenes raw footage confirmed that it is, indeed, black.

The shirt and tie were made by Anto from the same black silk with the satin side used to create the tie and the dull side used for the shirting. In addition to the long “1977 point collar” used by Anto on most – if not all – of De Niro’s Casino shirts, the black dress shirt features the distinctive “Lapidus” single-button tab cuffs seen on many of Ace’s shirts.

De Niro was feeling much more jovial behind the scenes (left) than his frantic, paranoid character (right).

De Niro was feeling much more jovial behind the scenes (left) than his frantic, paranoid character (right).

The black trousers appear to be the same ones that he wore earlier with his cream fleck jacket when confronting an angry Nicky in the desert. They have a darted front with frogmouth pockets and a fitted waistband devoid of adjusters or belt loops. The flared bottoms are plain-hemmed with a full break.

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Contrast footwear would disrupt the flow of Ace’s loud outfit, so he continues the black theme with his black leather apron-toe loafers with smooth back counters, raised heels, and a high vamp that nicely works with his black socks to cleanly continue the black trouser leg line into his shoes.

The angles used on screen and the longer break of the trousers makes the details of Ace’s shoes difficult to accurately ascertain, but buyers seeking Ace-appropriate shoes can look to some of the shoemakers that supplied De Niro’s footwear in Casino: Bally, Bruno Magli, Di Fabrizio, Florsheim, and Johnston & Murphy. On the high end of that spectrum, Bruno Magli offers the Raging slip-on moc-toe loafer for $415, while Florsheim offers the Forum or the Midtown for $110 (or the Rally for $10 less), and Johnston & Murphy offers the Goodwin Moc-Toe Venetian for $150.

Ace's footwear is best seen in times of great duress. Also, check out Don Rickles as Billy Sherbert getting out of Ace's torn-up '81 Caddy.

Ace’s footwear is best seen in times of great duress. Also, check out Don Rickles as Billy Sherbert getting out of Ace’s torn-up ’81 Caddy.

A red-faced watch like the one he wore with his ivory suit and red-on-red silk shirt and tie might have been the obvious choice for this outfit, but a close look at some promotional photos reveal that Ace’s flat silver-toned wristwatch actually has a blue square dial. It is likely one of the several 14-carat white gold vintage watches by Bueche Girod that were obtained for production.

This is backed up by the blue synthetic emerald-cut stone on his 14-carat white gold pinky ring, as Ace almost always matches his rings and watches. Don’t you?

Quintessential De Niro.

Quintessential De Niro.

Since Casino is set in the usually toasty climate of Las Vegas, very few overcoats are seen. However, this scene is set during the colder fall or winter months (in reality, this incident was early September 1980), so Ace dons a black wool overcoat when he and Billy Sherbert follow a police-accompanied Ginger to the bank as she retrieves her cash and jewels. The single-breasted overcoat has notch lapels that roll down to a three-button front. It is structured similarly to the red jacket beneath it with wide, padded shoulders and a center back vent.

Ace stands, powerless as his life is systematically destroyed.

Ace stands, powerless as his life is systematically destroyed.

This fan favorite outfit is the last newly seen* of De Niro’s in the film and is featured second-to-last on the bottom of Ibraheem Youssef’s distinctive poster that illustrates all of Ace’s suits and odd jackets.

* Excluding the gray polka-dot silk robe he briefly wears when federal agents present him with photos of Nicky and Ginger, and excluding the salmon-colored jacket that was previously seen during the flash-forward prologue.

Expecting trouble overnight but not about to lounge around in plebian attire, Ace wears a navy silk dressing gown over his shirt and trousers. The robe has tan piping on the belt, the gauntlet cuff edges, the pockets, and the wide shawl collar. The entire garment is also covered in a printed tan pattern that looks like a series of panthers or some other four-legged animal.

Ace's gestures are just not enough to convince the friendly cops that Ginger should be stopped.

Ace’s gestures are just not enough to convince the friendly cops that Ginger should be stopped.

This robe had been previously featured in earlier scenes when Ginger was desperately asking for money for Lester leading up to Ace’s ivory-suited confrontation with him in the diner, when Ace and Nicky use their wives to coordinate their ultimately final desert meeting, and when Ace kicks Ginger out of the house. Something about wearing this robe tends to mean a confrontation in Ace’s future…

How to Get the Look

A behind-the-scenes shot of Robert De Niro in the Jubilation nightclub set of Casino (1995).

A behind-the-scenes shot of Robert De Niro in the Jubilation nightclub set of Casino.

Ace Rothstein’s red-on-black silk outfit is one of the most memorable from Casino, signifying the dramatic shift that the storyline has taken toward frantic paranoia as opposed to the more serene earth tones of the early establishing scenes… not to mention that it allows Robert De Niro to fit in perfectly while puffing away on Dunhill cigarettes in an animal-print decorated Vegas nightclub to the sounds of Devo’s “Satisfaction”.

  • Red raw silk single-breasted 2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single back vent
  • Black dull silk dress shirt with long point collar and 1-button “Lapidus” tab cuffs
  • Black satin silk tie
  • Black darted-front trousers with fitted waistband, frogmouth front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather apron-toe slip-on loafers with high vamps and raised heels
  • Black dress socks
  • Black wool single-breasted 3-button overcoat with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, hip pockets, single back vent
  • White gold vintage wristwatch with blue square dial on link bracelet
  • White gold 14-carat pinky ring with synthetic blue emerald-cut stone set in geometric polished shank

A plain black pocket square would simply be too plain for a bold outfit like this, so Ace wears a red-trimmed display kerchief poking out of his jacket’s breast pocket, custom made by Anto to perfectly match the black shirt and tie while also calling out the surrounding redness of the silk sport coat.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Listen to me – listen carefully. You ever touch her again, you ever do anything like that again, I’ll fucking kill ya, pure and simple. You hear me? Pure and fuckin’ simple.

Footnotes

I mentioned Devo’s “Satisfaction” as the soundtrack to this scene. Perhaps a nod to just how far things have come from Ace and Nicky’s more “idyllic” friendship in the ’60s, Scorsese uses Devo’s cover of The Rolling Stones’ 1965 hit single “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction” as the backdrop, building up to Ace’s phone call to Billy Sherbert that ends with him asking: “You got a gun at home?”

Devo released their cover of “Satisfaction” as a single in 1977; it also appeared the following year on their debut album Are We Not Men? We Are Devo!

Apparently, even celebrity impersonators have picked up on the importance of this Casino outfit. Robert Nash (“DeNiro Guy”) advertises his services with a header image that is undoubtedly inspired by this scene.

I’ll be honest: I’ve been looking forward to writing about this outfit!


Casino – De Niro’s Blue and Green Plaid Suit

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Robert De Niro as Sam "Ace" Rothstein in Casino (1995)

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino (1995)

Vitals

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein, Vegas casino executive and mob associate

Las Vegas, Fall 1980

Film: Casino
Release Date: November 22, 1995
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Rita Ryack & John A. Dunn

Background

Today’s Mafia Monday post is the final in a two-week streak where, for no reason at all, I chose only to feature movies and TV shows beginning with the letter “C”.

This scene in Casino finds Sam “Ace” Rothstein anxious waiting for his daughter’s return from the airport after she was kidnapped by her drug-addicted mother Ginger (Sharon Stone) and Ginger’s boyfriend and former pimp Lester (James Woods). After happily picking up his daughter and reluctantly greeting Ginger, the “happy” couple heads to Oscar’s Steakhouse at the Plaza Hotel for an attempted reconciliation dinner.

What’d He Wear?

Ace Rothstein’s plaid suit for his “reunion” with Ginger after she absconded with their daughter is one of the most vibrant of his many outfits in the whole movie, and it is sadly underfeatured given its uniqueness.

The silk suiting is a blue and muted hunter green large-scale plaid, boldly worn over a dark red silk monochromatic shirt and tie combo with a touch of red popping from the matching display kerchief. You know Ace is very proud of his suit, as he mocks Lester for his taste in clothing while driving Ginger to the restaurant:

First of all, he’s not gonna wear thousand dollar suits. But let’s say he did, which he won’t. How you gonna get fitted for twenty-five suits in three days? I mean, how could you get fitted that fast? I can’t get fitted that fast, and I pay twice as much.

Ace’s suit jacket, which evidently is part of his $2,000 suit, is single-breasted with the distinctive cran Necker-style fishmouth lapels seen on some of his other jackets earlier in the film such as his salmon pink jacket and his burnt orange jacket. The shoulders are wide and padded with roped sleeveheads. The two-button jacket has a welted breast pocket and hip pockets with pointed flaps. It appears to have a single button on each cuff and long double vents, similar to Ace’s other suit jackets.

The suit trousers have a darted or flat front with frogmouth pockets, a fitted waistband, and slightly flared plain-hemmed bottoms.

I'd hate to be the server that had to deal with their table that night.

I’d hate to be the server that had to deal with their table that night.

Anto Beverly Hills designed all of De Niro’s beautiful silk shirts and ties in Casino, often based on the fabrics and designs specified by Ace’s real life counterpart, Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal. The shirt and tie in this scene were made from the same dark red silk with the shinier satin side used for the tie and the duller side used for the shirting. The shirt is very ’70s-inspired with its long point collar and distinctive single-button extended-tab cuffs developed by Ted Lapidus.

Earlier in the film, Ace wore this same red shirt and tie combination with an ivory Western-themed suit when confronting Ginger and Lester in a Vegas diner. In a post describing that suit, I suggested that perhaps Ace chose to wear that outfit again here to subtly remind Ginger about Lester’s violent treatment that afternoon…

"He's lucky I didn't kill him last time. Lucky he's fucking living. And if you had stayed with him, and you would have run away, you would have been dead, both of you. Dead! Dead!" Ace isn't one for polite dinner conversation.

“He’s lucky I didn’t kill him last time… lucky he’s fucking living. And if you had stayed with him, and you would have run away, you would have been dead, both of you. Dead! Dead!”
Ace isn’t one for polite dinner conversation.

Ace’s footwear is likely black leather loafers with dark socks, possibly black although Ace isn’t above popping some complementary colors into his hosiery. (Ibraheem Youssef’s distinctive poster illustrating all of Ace’s suits and odd jackets represents his shoes as burgundy, possibly to match the shirt.)

This is one of the few cold-weather outfits in the film as Ace sports the same black wool overcoat for the airport pickup as he does later over his red silk sportcoat. If it is the same jacket, it’s single-breasted with notch lapels, three buttons, a single vent, and wide, padded shoulders.

Ace goes from relief to rage.

Ace goes from relief to rage.

But even if you bought him a watch, a really nice watch, one that he thought was nice – and he doesn’t know what the fuck a good watch is – so, you go, five, ten, twelve grand?

Ace can’t resist insulting Lester at every opportunity (and, given the circumstances, why should he resist?), and part of his cross-examination of Ginger includes trying to figure out how much the sleazy hustler would have spent on a watch. Ace’s own watch in this scene is likely one of the vintage Bueche Girod pieces sourced for the production, a flat yellow gold watch with a plain red square dial and gold link bracelet.

The colors of the wristwatch are nicely called out by his pinky ring, a 14-carat yellow gold ring with a ruby stone. Ace wears both the watch and ring on his right hand.

How to Get the Look

Ace livens up a somber dinner out with his bold blue, green, and red outfit… the perfect ensemble for a restaurant that prides itself on its “Beef, Booze, and Broads.”

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  • Blue-and-green plaid silk suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with fishmouth lapels, welted breast pocket, pointed-flap hip pockets, 1-button cuffs, and long double vents
    • Darted front trousers with fitted waistband, frogmouth front pockets, and slightly flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Dark red dull silk dress shirt with large point collar, front placket, and 1-button “Lapidus” tab squared cuffs
  • Dark red satin silk necktie
  • Black leather apron-toe slip-on loafers with high vamps and raised heels
  • Black dress socks
  • Black wool single-breasted 3-button overcoat with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, hip pockets, single back vent
  • Yellow gold wristwatch with a rectangular case, red dial, and flat link bracelet
  • Yellow gold 14-carat pinky ring with ruby stone

For an added touch of bold luxury, Ace wears a dark red silk display kerchief to match his shirt and tie.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

You’re lookin’ at me a certain way. You – you’re teary-eyed, huh? You’re upset. You’re a good actress, you know that? Good fuckin’ actress.


Casino – De Niro’s Mint Green Fleck Blazer

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Robert De Niro as Sam "Ace" Rothstein in Casino (1995)

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino (1995)

Vitals

Robert De Niro as Sam “Ace” Rothstein, Vegas casino executive and mob associate

Las Vegas, Fall 1980

Film: Casino
Release Date: November 22, 1995
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Rita Ryack & John A. Dunn

Background

Happy St. Patrick’s Day, a feast day that finds many people celebrating with Jameson and green clothing whether they have any Irish heritage or not.

Robert De Niro’s father was half Irish, so that’s all the excuse BAMF Style needs to explore one of his loud green outfits as the impressively attired Las Vegas executive Sam “Ace” Rothstein in Casino.

What’d He Wear?

The 1980s sequences mark a shift in Ace’s wardrobe. Prior to his gaming license hearing, Ace’s tailored attire consisted primarily of two-piece suits, supported by the occasional odd jacket in more casual situations such as a poolside meeting, opening a bank account, and dressing down an inept casino employee.

For his gaming license hearing and most scenes to follow, Ace begins a pattern of wearing primarily odd jackets with the only actual suit being the blue-and-green plaid suit that he wears when reconnecting with Ginger in the scene following this one.

Ace thus wears a variety of bold jackets with an added sense of chaos deriving from the mismatched (albeit well-coordinated) jackets and trousers. That boldness means a grand total of three green odd jackets: a bright kelly green sport coat with peak lapels, a mint green jacket worn for a meeting with his divorce lawyer (in the scene preceding this one), and – finally – this mint green flecked silk blazer that he evidently intends to wear for an airing of Aces High! until the news of his daughter’s kidnapping pulls him away.

We've all experienced tense phone calls with James Woods.

We’ve all experienced tense phone calls with James Woods.

Since a jacket like this would be rarely found out in the wild, there seems to be no clear standard on its preferred nomenclature. It’s certainly an odd jacket (in both a sartorial sense and a more literal reference to its eccentricity) and certainly not a traditional blazer, but I would argue that it’s bold color, ornamental metal buttons, and more formal structure would place it closer to the blazer camp than that of a sports jacket.

Ace’s jacket is so unique that I think any aspiring Sam Rothstein sartorialists would be hard pressed to get something similar without a lucky find or a cheap alternative like this poly/cotton blend from ASOS that may have the green fleck detail and peak lapels, but you’ll be getting what you pay for with the $34 price tag and doubtless concession to the “skinny” slim fit fad that’s bastardized menswear the last years.

Like his other jackets, the shoulders are wide and well-padded with roped sleeveheads and tailored to perfectly fit De Niro’s frame. In addition to its flattering cut and fit, the details of Ace’s jacket set it apart from imitators as one of the most distinctive garments in a film that’s full of them.

Both the two buttons on the front and the single decorative button on each cuff are silver-toned shank buttons. It is single-breasted with sharp peak lapels, a throwback to a popular style in the 1920s and 1930s that was briefly revived – and frequently exaggerated – during the late 1970s.

Ace’s blazer has slanted flapped hip pockets and a welted breast pocket where he wears a black silk display kerchief, one of the few times his pocket square doesn’t match his tie. The black display kerchief in Ace’s jacket breast pocket grounds the outfit while also coordinating with his black trousers and footwear. The jacket has long double vents, likely 12″.

Ace feels equally at home hobnobbing with scantily-clad showgirls and slick-suited mobsters.

Ace feels equally at home hobnobbing with scantily-clad showgirls and slick-suited mobsters.

Ace keeps his top half monochromatic, wearing all mint green above the waist line. His shirt, custom made for the production by Anto Beverly Hills, is made from the dull side as the same charmeuse silk as his tie. Every detail of the shirt is authentic to the 1970s and the actual shirts worn by Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal during the era, himself an Anto customer in real life.

The shirt has the long “1977 point collar” found on most of De Niro’s shirts throughout Casino with edge-stitched epaulettes – or shoulder straps – that extend out fully out to the end of the shoulder and are buttoned at the neck on the pointed end of the strap. The shirt has a plain front, a monogrammed breast pocket with a pointed yoke over the left chest, and the very distinctive “Lapidus” single-button tab cuffs.

A slightly dressed down Ace wears his mint green silk Anto shirt when confronting Nicky Santoro (Joe Pesci) with the news of his listing in the infamous NGC Black Book. (In real life, Tony Spilotro had been admitted to the Black Book in December 1978.)

A slightly dressed down Ace wears his mint green silk Anto shirt when confronting Nicky Santoro (Joe Pesci) with the news of his listing in the infamous NGC Black Book. (In real life, Tony Spilotro had been admitted to the Black Book in December 1978.)

While Anto used the duller side of the silk to create Ace’s shirt, the mint green tie was crafted from the shinier satin side. He only wears the tie while being prepped for his TV show in the dressing room, sporting the elusive triple threat of mint green-on-mint green-on-mint green.

The perfect knot with its expert dimple goes wasted as Ace is never seen wearing his tie without his makeup bib getting in the way.

The perfect knot with its expert dimple goes wasted as Ace is never seen wearing his tie without his makeup bib getting in the way.

Ace likely wears the same black high-rise trousers that feature in many of his odd jacket ensembles during the latter portion of Casino. They are designed with minimalism in mind so as not to distract from the boldness of his colorful top half, with a flat front shaped by darts and a fitted waistband with no belt loops or adjusters. Set in 1980, Ace’s trousers have the frogmouth front pockets and slightly flared plain hem bottoms that would have been fashionable.

His shoes are also the same black leather apron-toe loafers worn with black dress socks.

This is the only look we get of Ace's trousers during the sequence, and - unfortunately - the window glare casts a cyanic tone that compromises the black to appear bluer through the glass.

This is the only look we get of Ace’s trousers during the sequence, and – unfortunately – the window glare casts a cyanic tone that compromises the black to appear bluer through the glass.

This would’ve been a nice outfit to showcase some emerald jewelry, but Ace opts for a pinky ring in 14-carat white gold with a blue synthetic stone set in a geometric polished shank.

He also forgoes his usual habit of matching his ring and watch, wearing a vintage steel wristwatch with a red square face. Perhaps this incongruity is a reflection of Ace’s distracted mental state during the chaotic trauma of his unstable ex-wife and her former pimp kidnapping his daughter.

Mint green jackets and pay phones...relics of a bygone era.

Mint green jackets and pay phones…relics of a bygone era.

Check out the bottom row of Ibraheem Youssef’s impressive poster illustrating all of De Niro’s tailored clothing in Casino and you’ll see all three of his green odd jackets.

How to Get the Look

casino41-cropMint green is a sadly under-utilized color in men’s wear, but “Ace” Rothstein does his best to compensate for that with his silk fleck jacket and matching shirt and tie combination.

  • Mint green fleck silk single-breasted 2-button blazer with peak lapels, welted breast pocket, slanted flapped hip pockets, double vents, 1-button cuffs
  • Mint green dull silk dress shirt with long point collar, epaulettes, breast pocket, and 1-button “Lapidus” tab cuffs
  • Mint green satin silk tie
  • Black darted-front trousers with fitted waistband, frogmouth front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather apron-toe slip-on loafers with high vamps and raised heels
  • Black dress socks
  • Steel vintage wristwatch with red square dial on expanding bracelet
  • White gold 14-carat pinky ring with synthetic blue emerald-cut stone set in geometric polished shank
  • Black silk display kercheif

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.


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